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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
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Can concur with XK4SPK (always wanted to say that Very Happy ) explained it all in more detail than I have time for Thumbs Up

Also agree with the time It takes to do a second hand one. It can take over a day to just prepare the vehicles, plus drying time of 4-5 days which I leave them for. Quite a job not to under estimate if you are trying to do it over a weekend. Good luck.

Thanks Howard and Simon for the kind comments.

Pretty picture time... Three 110's in at the moment Cool




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Post #562683 9th Sep 2016 11:23am
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Numnuts



Member Since: 07 Sep 2016
Location: West Wickham
Posts: 6

United Kingdom 2005 Defender 90 2.5 TD XS CSW Santorini Black
Thanks XK4SPK for the detailed response, want to have this stabilised before the wet weather sets in.

Also, the wife wants to use it to tow and has to drive across a cattle farm to get to the yard, a couple of the horsey people down there are convinced the slurry has caused a lot of issues with rust.

Hoping if it can be sealed a gentle wash with a hose wouldn't do it any harm.

many thanks
Matt
Post #562719 9th Sep 2016 2:11pm
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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
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You are all booked in Matt Thumbs Up

Yes cow poo eats metal as well as concrete. Pig Censored is the worst, takes days to get the smell out of your skin ( I started off in farming at 14, great days, hard work, we had a series III, I always got the tractor work so wasn,t too bad Wink picking brussel sprouts by hand in snow was no joke).
Post #562731 9th Sep 2016 2:55pm
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X4SKP



Member Since: 29 Nov 2013
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 2295

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey
Numnuts wrote:
Thanks XK4SPK
... Shocked


Click image to enlarge


But then again...XK Thumbs Up


Click image to enlarge
 SKIP
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html
Post #562736 9th Sep 2016 3:22pm
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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
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My Fault... Miss driving it but not owning it!



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Post #562744 9th Sep 2016 3:47pm
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X4SKP



Member Since: 29 Nov 2013
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 2295

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey
very nice...you win... Thumbs Up



you have to give it to Jaguar...making a virtue out of the reliability issue...brilliant Shocked SKIP
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html
Post #562752 9th Sep 2016 4:34pm
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Zagato
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Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
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Sadly not a real one but a Nostalgia exact replica worth roughly a third of a real XK120. I bought mine for £17,000 in 2008 Wink and sold it two years later for £27,000 worth 40k plus nowadays. Loved the XK straight six Very Happy Had to look underneath to tell it was a replica Whistle It paid for my new Defender but got my money back from the loss on that with a yacht. sold the yacht for a half cabin trailer sailer, soo cheap to use and a SAAB 96. Will never sell either and now run around in £1000 SAABs that cost nothing to run Wink
Post #562756 9th Sep 2016 4:50pm
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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
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Lunch time top tip, how to reduce your MPG Wink

Check above your front mudflaps, you may think your vehicle is clean after a jet wash but there will be loads of muck hiding unseen. This half box of mud came out of a 110 JUST in the area above the front mudflaps Shocked



Quite a bit can also hide behind the riveted quarter panel in front of the rear wheel on a 110. That mud will eventually rot the rivets and anything in comes in contact with...

As a gardener trying to work with clay soil I do appreciate the fertile earth you all bring me Very Happy Makes my veg grow lovely :lol:

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Last edited by Zagato on 14th Sep 2016 1:04pm. Edited 2 times in total
Post #563846 14th Sep 2016 12:03pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20292

United Kingdom 
^^^^ I know that spot well just up under the front wheel arch above the mudflap.

You can just about get your hand up there. Whistle Shocked Laughing

Then there is the support stay on a 90 to the front of the arch from tub to inner wing. It's steel with a low 'U' shaped upward profile. Mud sticks in there well and in the corners.
Post #563862 14th Sep 2016 1:02pm
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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
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Three more in for this week Very Happy Very comfy ride in the black 110, bargain wheels and tyres off Ken I thought Shocked



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Post #564782 18th Sep 2016 8:20am
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scotty38



Member Since: 21 May 2011
Location: Lincolnshire
Posts: 571

England 2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Aintree Green
Chris, if you cast your mind back you were going to do mine when I bought it in 2011 but in the end I decided to do it myself....

Anyway, 5 years on and I reckon it's ready for a fettle. In my mind it doesn't look too bad but there are bits of rust coming through on the chassis and also axles etc (that I didn't do in the first place).

You mention that second hand cars take more time (which I understand) but how long would you typically need it for?

Thanks....
Post #564809 18th Sep 2016 11:45am
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Hairysteve



Member Since: 15 Jun 2015
Location: Surrey
Posts: 692

United Kingdom 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Barolo Black
I like that Black 110 Thumbs Up
Post #564817 18th Sep 2016 12:29pm
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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
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Laughing Yours is a good looking beasty Steve Cool

Scotty just sent you a PM, 2011 and been done before so shouldn,t be any significant extra work involved Thumbs Up
Post #564873 18th Sep 2016 6:20pm
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Stacey007



Member Since: 25 Sep 2015
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 3743

United Kingdom 
Having just resprayed my cross member I was also having a look under my car,

It actually doesn't look to bad I don't think its seen any serious off roading anyway.

My question, given I need to use the car so not a block of time I could prepare the car, leave it to dry for upto 5 days and then actually do the job.

Looking at the front arches for example and front under the sump protector, Can I do 'bits' at a time?
Post #564880 18th Sep 2016 6:50pm
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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
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It,s easier and a lot quicker to do it in one go of course as everything is clean, dry, masked and stripped at the same time but yes you can do bits of it at a time. Thumbs Up The time is the preperation, cleaning, getting rust off, acid converting (wait to dry) light film of cavity wax (wait to dry) then underbody wax. Once clean and flushed I would get the cavity wax in the chassis done first then the other outer bits on the chassis/body can be done more conveniently around the weather Thumbs Up

It,s also easier to do it in one go as you only get mucky a few times over the two days. If you are doing it on and off you would need more masking material, plastic sheeting for the ground (you tend to stick to it if you try and re-use) a couple of disposeable boiler suits, more filters for your mask, more gloves and more times to clean yourself up. How ever you cover up it still goes in your eyes, hair etc Neutral not to mention your lungs : Sad
Post #565006 19th Sep 2016 7:02am
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