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| Linds Hanson Member Since: 16 Jan 2021 Location: Cornwall Posts: 507  
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Just a further note to anyone contemplating vehicle underside coatings having been involved with professional vehicle applications for over forty years. We obviously started with the usual wet wax applications using Waxoyl and progressing through the Dinitrol products etc. Wet wax is effective on good clean non corroded areas to protect manufactures coatings etc but should NEVER be applied to any previously corroded surfaces even if they have been descaled and treated with a "rust converter". Preparation as always is key with any treatment and unfortunately this does require extensive disassembly of the vehicle to gain access and prep all areas effectively. We have found that paint based products which contain rust inhibitors and properly seal the surfaces are the most successful long term process, only surpassed by galvanising. This not only prevents further deterioration but is easy to keep clean and is dry to touch. A dry cavity wax would be suitable for inner box sections that have been thoroughly cleaned and dried.
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9th Apr 2025 12:28pm |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5019
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At last a chance to work on my own pride and joy and a chance to check on the 7 year old Dinitrol before I fit the rear wings. Back in the 70's SAAB chained a few SAAB 95's to the rocky shore line to check how the rust treatments were holding up. I will find a pic later. Scandinavian cars had to last twice as long as european cars due to the harsh conditions. 12 years instead or 6 or 7.
Those of a certain age will remember Supertrol. Whilst Waxoyl original has always been pretty useless in layman's terms, Supetrol was a highly effective epoxy/bitchumen based system developed from such testing. Dinitrol 4941 is the modern equivalent (epoxy/bitchumen) which dries to a smart matt black finish or clear with 4010. The advantage is that you are not trapping in corrosion on welds, overlapping seams and extremely tight spaces where its impossible to get anything in to prep the metal. Dinitrol clear coat is especially good as you can keep an eye on rust. As the previous post mentions to be able to paint metal you have to guarantee it is rust free which entails as said completely stripping down each component of the car and media blasting/acid dipping etc which all bring their own issues. That Is obviously just not practical for many and the cost prohibitive. You also still cannot guarantee you can get into seams, welds, inside hole edges etc and you don't want to trap rust behind paint. An example of this is how often rear cross members are repainted due to the upper horizontal seam you cannot get into effectively, inside edges of the holes, etc. A hard paint will hide the corrosion for much longer but it's all rotting away underneath. Another significant factor is, as we all know chassis tend to rot from the inside out first!!!! As mentioned in the previous post a cavity wax is suitable for that but I use a kind of runny one Dinitrol 1000 so it doesn,t build up over time and trap in corrosion. For a belt and braces job spray in ACF-50 first on a 360 degree spray head. What ever you do don,t use Lanoguard which is simply a mass marketed thin glue. You have to prep and treat rust first. Covering it with a thin glue (made like this so it can be pumped easily for DIY sales of course) is hopeless. I can't believe people are still being fooled despite all the negative feedback. How on earth people think a glue will magically cure corrosion is beyond me. The feel good factor doesn't last long!! It's all been said before on that one.  Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge |
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13th Apr 2025 8:36am |
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