 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Corrosion Prevention Guide! |
 
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5009  
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Yes can go on anything, common rails included. I would go with 6-8 cans and put on 3 layers.
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12th Jan 2023 9:16am |
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| chopper Member Since: 26 Apr 2021 Location: Warwickshire Posts: 5 
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Have sent a PM regarding current prices 👍
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17th Jan 2023 8:18pm |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5009
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17th Jan 2023 9:26pm |
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| dainger Member Since: 08 Feb 2022 Location: Harpenden Posts: 67 
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How bad is this looking?
It was undercoated (24 months ago) by a professional but can see its peeling in some areas. Is this expected? Should I let it run its course? touch it up? Or is it better now to have it properly stripped back and treated properly? She’s a 2015 40k miles on her.  Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge |
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23rd Jan 2023 11:55am |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5009
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Pm sent! (Sensitive area commenting on another's work)
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23rd Jan 2023 12:55pm |
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| GM_FFX Member Since: 15 Sep 2021 Location: Washington DC Posts: 31  
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Interested in this too
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29th Jan 2023 10:44pm |
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| TexasRover Member Since: 24 Nov 2022 Location: Paris Posts: 1019  
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If you ask me it does not look great. But then I think in America it needs to be clarified where and how this car is driving around. The Rustbelt is something special, maybe it is the salt they use, but it is aggressive!
I lived in the south for many years and cars will look near new after 15-20 years. Even 1980s cars can have 0 rust. I also had a LR3 (Discovery 3) from Alaska and it looked fantastic underneath. No salt in Alaska from what I understand. However you look at a U-tube channel such as South Main Auto (New York) and even 5 year old cars in the rustbelt have holes rotten in it. Regular warm/soap HP washing of the bottom to remove sand and salt combined with a more regularly applied oily style protection (waxoil, Fluid Film (I like that one!)) is I think the better solution than trying to create some sort of permanent barrier. |
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30th Jan 2023 9:46am |
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| Waiteu2 Member Since: 28 Nov 2021 Location: Sheffield Posts: 3 
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Mines is similar to the 2015 one above. Zag can you PM me with prices too please? Not eligible to PM you as not enough posts. Thanks. Craig |
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30th Jan 2023 8:22pm |
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| RobKeay Member Since: 19 Jul 2009 Location: Stafford Posts: 1579 
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The windscreen surround on my 2014 looks terrible. It’s been painted twice but the paint just flakes off. Any advice gratefully received.
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30th Jan 2023 8:26pm |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4410
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What was it treated with? There is no way after 24 months it should be looking that bad, not even with Lanoguard which is not as resilient as waxoyl or dintrol. Did you take any freshly coated photos for comparison? |
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30th Jan 2023 8:28pm |
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| dainger Member Since: 08 Feb 2022 Location: Harpenden Posts: 67
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I never asked the place which did it what they used but i reckon it must have just been painted on over the top of this already.
But I’m booked in with Zagato later this year to get it all sorted so happy days. |
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30th Jan 2023 9:19pm |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5009
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Pm sent Craig |
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31st Jan 2023 9:40am |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5009
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You will see in many previous posts over the years I have noted that 14 plates are particularly bad for windscreen corrosion. I am afraid as with many parts on all Land Rovers including chassis, these were largely already corroding prior to the actual vehicle being built. To explain the chassis for instance is simply coated with a porous matt black paint. No primer to stop moisture getting through, so when the chassis are stacked up outside the factory in the rain prior to the actual vehicle being built your rear crossmember will start to rust in no time. I have seen window frames corrode even on collectors vehicles that have only ever been dry from new. It is a weird alloy mix that bubbles and crumbles into a powder especially where the seams are but lesser elements do seem to rust like steel. I am afraid (similar to simple alloy corrosion) there is nothing you can do. You can rub it back and paint it but it will come back through in a year or so. Hopefully someone will produce sound aftermarket window frames |
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31st Jan 2023 9:57am |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5009
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Wise words... there is no instant cure, maintenance is the only answer, spraying your vehicle with a clear glue product or rock hard product just makes matters a lot worse. You are trapping in corrosion which you cannot easily address in the future, it actually accelerates corrosion as they trap in moisture. I can pop lifted areas on Lanoguard, Buzzweld products, Raptor etc etc that just let out brown water but worse you cannot get this damn stuff off. |
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31st Jan 2023 10:19am |
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