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| Andrew*Debbie Member Since: 25 May 2016 Location: Anglesey Posts: 95  
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Thanks to this thread and a huge amount of help from a friend, I did a DIY Dinitrol treatment to our 110 Hardtop.
I cleaned the underside last weekend and let it dry for a week. I also used a rattle can to treat the inside of the doors, since I had the door cards off anyway. Friday, I drove the 110 to my friend's workshop. We put the truck up on stands, masked off everything that wasn't going to get gooped up. I blew off the road dust with shop air. After that we sprayed RC 900 on the rusty bits. Our 110 is five years old and there wasn't too much rust. We left it to dry over night. Saturday, we sprayed ML into every single hole in the frame and cross-members. Spraying ML from litre cans makes a mess. We let the ML run out for about an hour then sprayed 445 stone chip onto the rear wheel arches, the floor pans and some forward facing surfaces at the front of the car. Front diff looks great in black stone chip.  Click image to enlarge We let that dry for an hour and then sprayed everything else in 4941 underbody wax. Click image to enlarge We made three inspection and touch up passes under the 110. Nevertheless I managed to miss a spot. Rookie error. I'll have to go over that with rattle can. I still need spray inside the A pillars too. Click image to enlarge |
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24th Jul 2016 5:35pm |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5012
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Sounds a good job
 Satisfying isn,t it. Don,t forget the ACF-50 on the body work etc, it,s equally important with all the bare metal under cappings etc. |
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25th Jul 2016 1:28pm |
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| Leaky 110 Member Since: 11 Jul 2016 Location: Glasgow Posts: 62  
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Just found this thread, a really good read.
I'm steam cleaning my chassis tomorrow, then hopefully get the dinitrol on at the weekend if the weather stays reasonably dry. I'll attempt body and bulkhead at a later date, once I started looking closely there are loads of wee bits I want to sort/ change rusty bolts. An ongoing process rather than a one off job! Does anyone have tips for filling holes? A previous owner had had extra wiring that's left small holes bored in the windscreen. What's the best way to seal them up? |
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25th Jul 2016 4:37pm |
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| Bluest Member Since: 23 Apr 2016 Location: Lancashire Posts: 4198 
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I'm building up to doing mine, I know it's going to be a dirty job. MY 07 Puma has done 60k plus miles so I know there will be some corrosion already, although it has been treated, on places, in the past. It will also be very dirty.
For cleaning, I don't have access to a steam cleaner. Will a pressure washer plus Gunk TFR be effective enough? Also, I'm worries about drying time. The weather has been really damp this year, and doesn't show signs of improving so I'm not sure how dry the insides of the box sections will be. Will the Dinitrol cavity stuff displace water when it goes in, or is there anything else I could use to displace water that hasn't evaporated? |
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2nd Aug 2016 4:30pm |
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| Andrew*Debbie Member Since: 25 May 2016 Location: Anglesey Posts: 95
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I was able to get ours clean enough with a coin operated pressure washer. I fed about £15 into it.
Compressed air. I put an air nozzle up to every hole in the chassis. I went over the entire underside with compressed air. Didn't blow out any water, but the 110 had been sitting a for a full week. Be sure to use a good respirator when you shoot the Dinitrol. ML makes an oily mist that goes everywhere. You don't want that in your lungs. Wear full PPEs too. The stuff makes a huge mess. |
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3rd Aug 2016 8:43am |
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| Andrew*Debbie Member Since: 25 May 2016 Location: Anglesey Posts: 95
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Pleased with how it turned out. The stone chip on the front axel looks a lot better than light rust. The 110 is noticeably quieter too. I hope to get to cappings and other body bits this weekend. I've already got the ACF-50. Most of the screws are stainless. Thinking about using ACF-50 on the wheel nuts. I still need to do the inside of the rear door too. Might take the spare off while I'm at it. |
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3rd Aug 2016 9:01am |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5012
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To answer the above jet wash will be fine but leave at least 4-5 days to dry out without artificial heat and even then I would leave it a couple of days. Moisture can kind of soak into metal, especially weld points. Dinitrolling on top of moisture will be a worse job than if you had left it alone!
The below is a Jimny I have in, the rust was hardly noticeable until I started poking about, the underseal has just trapped moisture in. Doesn,t it really tugs yer heart strings with those puppy dog eyes...
What a lovely little motor for the new owner. 2007 plate with 40k on the clock... she absolutely loves it and wants it preserved. Where the underseal has been compromised it has held the moisture in and been rotting quietly away unseen underneath 
Nothing serious but this was completey hidden until I started poking about...
You can see rust, bare metal then the grey underseal, you have to take it back to good metal, treat rust then underseal or paint. Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated  |
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3rd Aug 2016 4:16pm |
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| defender9 Member Since: 12 Mar 2016 Location: Fylde Coast Posts: 1629 
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Zagato,
What make of 4 post ramp is that? It looks quite a lightweight unit. |
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3rd Aug 2016 7:17pm |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5012
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Hamer Lift
http://www.hamercarlift.com Ideal for me as easy to dismantle and move when necessary, takes 20 mins however it,s all hefty stuff not lightweight to move, heaviest bits are 70kg, pricey but very pleased with it , takes up to 2.5 tonnes which is fine for me on road cars, had all the safety tests, been around for 10 years so nothing new but very useful in certain situations
Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated |
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3rd Aug 2016 7:21pm |
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| defender9 Member Since: 12 Mar 2016 Location: Fylde Coast Posts: 1629
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How long does it take you (one man) to lift a car to maximum height?
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3rd Aug 2016 9:21pm |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5012
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Maybe 10 mins! My motors are on the ramp a minimum of one day, usually two to three so it,s not a problem but if you wanted four cars on and off in a day it would be a hassle.
If you can your work inside and have height for a hydraulic ramp that would be the first choice but for me I need to work outside due to ventilation and not wrecking a garage with Dinitrol and also do not have the height needed for a hydraulic ramp. The £260 Clarke temporary garage is ideal and can be lifted higher, a friend has had one for four years in full weather and it,s like new. Careful of cheap ramps and their claims, do a google on the make first, some real horror stories out there as some are not built for what they are supposedly weighted for  As an aside Scissor lifts are no good for me as I need full access to the underbody...
Really nice bit of kit the Hamer and nothing can go wrong with it, very pleased with it. The guy that designed it is also very helpful. Mention my name Chris Calvert to Paul or Brian if you enquire about one |
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4th Aug 2016 1:31pm |
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| Leaky 110 Member Since: 11 Jul 2016 Location: Glasgow Posts: 62
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Lovely ramp, really good design!
Just prepping my car for its dinitrol at the weekend. I've been reading conflicting info about spraying rust converter inside the chassis. Doesn't make sense to me but I see a few folk that have done it. Is there any point? I'm just unsure about applying converter to an area I can't see (spraying it in through the holes) |
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4th Aug 2016 4:37pm |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5012
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I expect there are conflicting views as it depends on so many factors, age of chassis, what products used, type of use chassis will have etc.
Some points to consider so you can make your own mind up. Chassis are rusting from new especially along the weld points, inside and out. They can be like this for many years without significant deterioration of the chassis depending on type of use. The majority of serious rot is where mud/dirt collects and stays damp, this can rot through areas even on a galvanised chassis surprisingly quickly. Even Defenders just used on the road can build up dirt in the wrong places! Times vary massively depending on environment e.g. Near the sea or not, use on salty roads, off road use etc etc Two reasons for cavity wax, it acts as a barrier in between mud and the chassis, prevents oxygen getting through to exisitng rusting metal slowing down the rust considerably and some have rust inhibitors also. Is a rust inhibitor good enough for you or do you want an acid convertor. Dinitrol Converust goes on like a clear varnish BUT it is soluble..ish if water gets on it so... It does need to be protected/covered completely. Has your chassis been treated before with cavity wax or rust convertors? If so (and what ever product that was), has it sealed it completey for good until serious rot has/can take hold and it is too late or is it like Dintrol cavity wax, Waxoyl etc that will break up exposing the rust so re treatment can be effective! THE MOST IMPORTANT THING?.. If you decide to use Converust, get a professional mask, do not breath it in, it is absolutely lethal, like breathing in acid It goes into the air very easy and quickly, a paper mask is useless. Do not get it on porous paint work either, will strip it off completey, lacquered paint is ok if you get it off quickly but white spirits won,t have much effect, nasty stuff but does the job very well.Last edited by Zagato on 4th Aug 2016 6:00pm. Edited 3 times in total |
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4th Aug 2016 5:25pm |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5012
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E.g.
If you want a go yourself, get yourself a professional mask and something to cover you, your driveway and parts of the vehicle. Below is a simple demo, the trick is to get as much rust off as possible. Few pics of the Dinitrol system! 1. Rub down rust as much as possible.
2. Spray on Converust RC900, picture taken within a minute and it is already turning dark blue converting the rust.
3. You need a coating of your choice over the Converust, either paint or as in this picture a clear coating of Corroheat 4010 if you want to keep a very close eye on what is happening BUT be careful it does chip!
Or Underbody Wax 4941 as in the picture or the sound deadening stone chip Drohnex 445 or I would recommend the new Protect Super 447 if you want a better stone chip.
This can all be bought in aerosols from Rejel.com with 360 degree spray extension nozzles and a cavity wax 3125 for box sections. Now to finish the rest of the wheel arch...
Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated Last edited by Zagato on 4th Aug 2016 6:01pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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4th Aug 2016 5:40pm |
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