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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5012  
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 Thank you. |
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7th Jul 2016 11:55am |
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| Happyoldgit Member Since: 14 Sep 2007 Location: Norfolk Posts: 3471 
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Goodness how time flies. Here's a bit of balance for the umpteen relative newcomers here.
I remember when Zag spent a great deal of time asking a 1001 questions on all aspects of Defenders, their construction, maintenance, use, fitting accessories - oh and how to rustproof them - in fact picking the brains of existing members here to the very nth degree and all prior to actually owning one. This went on for what seemed like months and such is the nature of this forum was met the endless questioning was met with nothing but freely given advice and help from existing members. I suppose it could argued that some may not have been so willing to share their experience and advice had they realised or been told at the time that it was shortly going to be used for profit. Steve. Owned numerous Land Rover vehicles of all shapes and sizes over the decades. Current Defender: A non tarts hand-bagged Puma 110 XS USW. [Insert something impressive here such as extensive list of previous Land Rovers or examples of your prestigeous and expensive items, trinkets, houses, bikes, vehicles etc] http://forums.lr4x4.com I used to be Miserable ...but now I'm ecstatic. |
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7th Jul 2016 12:13pm |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5012
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Yes who would know Steve what I had been doing for 30 plus years as a hobby would turn into a business. Yes I certainly did do a thorough lot of research on Defenders before I plucked up the courage to buy a new one especially with regards to reliability. 30k was and is a huge sum for me but the dream of owning one got the better of me until another dream came along... A yacht... That lasted just over a year also but I made all my money back and had a few glorious years with my toys. I actually hand painted my Defender with POR-15 then treated other bits with Dinitrol and ACF-50, much of this was learn,t rebuilding my Series IIA project years ago and working on my other Series II which was a daily drive for 3 years
 Stripping Landies down is the best way to see what rots in time...
Click image to enlarge
There was no intention to make a business out of it (not that there is anything wrong with that) even though so many forum members said I ought to but I was asked by a forum member if I could do theirs and I was happy to do this and it just snowballed. When money exchanged hands rather than favours I actually only charged £150 for the first few (£50 profit) until I realised I had damaged my lungs and should get paid properly for doing such a filthy job. I still run my other previous business which I also still enjoy...
As you say the good nature of this forum for freely given advice to help each other out is something I have been very happy to do. It is no skin off my nose to answer a phone and help others who want to have a go themselves so it,s all good Steve 
One of my first SAABs roughly 35 years ago. It was mint and won me a few cups but I still HAD to strip it down for rust prevention work  Had over 20 classic SAABS,s since and they all get a strip down!
My TD5 and the rotten 88" before the strip down
My 109 daily drive, loved that thing, only broke down once in 3 years, great for the school run  Long time ago now!
Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated  Last edited by Zagato on 2nd Sep 2016 3:59pm. Edited 4 times in total |
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7th Jul 2016 1:00pm |
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| K9F Member Since: 12 Nov 2009 Location: Bournemouth Posts: 9610 
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It's not only the business that snowballed is it? A quote given by you in March this year was for over £600 for a 90!   If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!
Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!! |
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7th Jul 2016 2:53pm |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5012
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I can give you an honest answer to that. I have damaged my lungs permanently despite professional masks and wanted to give it up under advise from my Doctor. Another forum member in business on here said put your prices up and do fewer Defenders for the same return. The business still came in, in fact it increased in 2015 from recomendations so it made sense. I still don,t have a website or advertise, something I hope to rectify this year.. But still don,t need to
 You see I don,t just whack them up on ramps and spray for twenty minutes at arms length after a mornings jet wash  I am under Defenders for literally hours at close quarters, breathing the fumes in, it,s the only way to do them properly.
As this is now my main business I have been charging £490 in recent months to bring it in line with other marques as you cannot justify differing prices for differing vehicles. I now have referrals from companies do to SAABs, Toyotas, general cars from local garages, some classics, and even bikes. The first post of this thread was edited 2/5/16 with the new price of £490 depending on prep time. The going rate seems to be £500 - £900 in these parts (for very dubious, incomplete work, shame people get taken in by pictures on a website ) It can easily take a day to do the preparation work, it,s no joke trying to get all the mud out then taking back all the rust, then treating the rust before the wax goes on. A quick jet wash is next to useless! Especially when it is done in the morning and then the undersides are simply blasted with underseal in the afternoon The Dinitrolling to the chassis and ACF-50 work to the body, interior, engine bay and sealing windows etc takes me just over a day also...but that is after at least four days of drying out properly  Factor in materials at roughly £150, overheads, tax and the damage to lungs which cannot be undone it brings it all into perspective.
I enjoy the work and keep to two to three a week, I,m not chasing money at my age, it,s more of a no rush, stress free plod on job that I can take my time on, in my garage, on my own, no staff to manage, no boss to hold you to ransom, no commute etc etc and it,s satisfying doing a good job and meeting nice clients .
Despite offers to be flown to Scotland, Ireland etc with accomodation to work on people's Defenders I,m afraid it,s not easy for me to leave my set up here and don,t want/need to so apologies to those who have asked for my services elsewhere... Many from abroad or further afield in the UK tie a holiday in leaving from Gatwick or book a hotel for a night... Last edited by Zagato on 2nd Sep 2016 4:20pm. Edited 14 times in total |
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7th Jul 2016 3:08pm |
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| gabe3105 Member Since: 25 May 2015 Location: Grimsby Posts: 237
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Everything I have read on this forum suggests Zagato does an awesome job for a competitive price - if the price wasn't competitive he wouldn't last long in business! When I am in a position to need rust protection I know who I will be going to
It is also reassuring to know when he started out he was eager to learn everything he could - the sign of a conscientious person who will take great care in working on people's pride and joy - a good thing IMHO |
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7th Jul 2016 3:37pm |
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| ADBS65 Member Since: 31 Aug 2015 Location: Wolverhampton Posts: 15 
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Sorry about this but not enough posts for a PM
My 90 is stripped down as I have had to do some serious chassis welding. I am going to paint the chassis with POR15 then use Dinitrol RC900? on the inside followed by Dinitrol 3125. (I will also use 3125 to treat inside the bulkhead). I was going to spray Dinitrol 4941 over the POR regards the UV light issue as it comes as part of the Rejel kit. My question is will it stick to POR15 and is it necessary? Would i be better buying POR chassis paint as top coat and just using Dinitrol on the inside of the chassis, buying as much as i need? Thanks and sorry for cutting in on the thread! Regards Andy |
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10th Jul 2016 7:16pm |
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| CDN38 Member Since: 14 Nov 2014 Location: Courtenay, BC Posts: 729  
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I used the POR cleaning solution after scaling my frame with a wire brush, then the POR15 Metal Prep, followed by 2 coats of POR15.
It was parked indoors in the shop to cure whilst I was doing other work. Then I did a full Dinitrol treatment about a month later, and thus far, no adhesion issues at all. Have a look through my re-build thread, description and lots of photos are there. http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic40792.html it's a Landrover thing... my renovation thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic40792.html |
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10th Jul 2016 8:45pm |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5012
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To answer also, yes what you plan is fine although you can buy UV resistant POR-15 (it,s been available for about 5 years now). I did the same with mine, I.e. painted with POR-15 then sprayed underbody wax on some areas a paint brush couldn,t get into to make sure. You can always spray on a light coating of 3125 cavity wax to help adhesion.
MOST IMPORTANT... Make sure there its definitely no rust because as you know once POR-15 is on , it is on for good and could hide any rot for years |
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11th Jul 2016 7:18am |
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| ADBS65 Member Since: 31 Aug 2015 Location: Wolverhampton Posts: 15
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Thank you for the advice, much appreciated. A further couple of questions if you can help me!
I am thinking of buying the 6 small tins of POR15, I assume this will be enough? In relation to Dinitrol RC900 how many aerosols are required to treat the inside of the chassis? Regarding the 3125 is the amount supplied in the Rejel medium kit enough (Thinking that a 90 will need less than a 110?) to treat the whole chassis, outriggers X member and bulkhead? If not how many aerosols will i need? I will be using the 4941 like you, to get where i cant get with a brush and on top of the POR15 as necessary now I know it sticks 
Thanks in advance for your advice regards Andy |
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11th Jul 2016 5:32pm |
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| CDN38 Member Since: 14 Nov 2014 Location: Courtenay, BC Posts: 729
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I went through a 1 litre can of POR 15 for my frame. As Zegato mentioned rust removal is key if you want this treatment to last. Wire cup surface rust, clean and metal prep according to the instructions. The metal prep will leaving a zinc phosphate coating to insure chemical bonding of paint and steel.
As with any process like this, the more thurough the prep is under the finish, the better the finished product will be. Not quite finished wire cup cleaning of rust after cleaning with the Cleaner Degreaser Click image to enlarge After the Metal prep had been applied, rinsed and dried (the white residue is the zinc phosphate that remains) Click image to enlarge After 2 coats of POR 15 Click image to enlarge About a month later, with the truck still in the shop ,I did the full Dinitrol treatment. Again, I can't stress enough about how important the preparation is in the process. it's a Landrover thing... my renovation thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic40792.html |
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11th Jul 2016 6:39pm |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5012
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Hi Andy, cannot remember about POR-15 long time since I did mine but it goes a long way on a chassis 1 litre should be enough but guessing! Is this the kit you are talking about! http://www.rejel.com/search.php?search_que...mp;Search= No where near enough underbody wax and get the Stone chip not Drohnex but then you won,t need it as you are just touching up with it. Cavity wax is fine maybe need 6-7 cans and maybe 4 cans of RC900 with an extension nozzle... good luck |
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12th Jul 2016 7:31am |
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| ADBS65 Member Since: 31 Aug 2015 Location: Wolverhampton Posts: 15
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Yes this is the kit, I selected Medium option as the best compromise, in view of me using POR15 as well. I will order 3 x extra RC900s and 2 x 3125s aerosols I think, which should be enough, if not I can order some more as 90 off the road so no time pressures. I am/was ordering the 6 small tins of POR15 as others suggest the big tins go off once opened. I can always find a use for a small tin of this stuff I reckon 😉
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12th Jul 2016 7:53am |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5012
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WATER INGRESS GUIDE
Always worth putting it up again although there is an updated version for later models... somewhere! http://www.landroverweb.com/Pdf-files/Manu...Manual.pdf |
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23rd Jul 2016 3:23pm |
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