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| WickhamMan Member Since: 21 Dec 2014 Location: Hampshire Posts: 3  
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I'm a great fan of ACF50 and have used it for years, just trying to work out what Dinitrol products to use - sorry to say for a Disco2 not a Defender!
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28th Jan 2016 8:57am |
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| RRUK Site Supporter Member Since: 31 Mar 2010 Location: Leicestershire Posts: 2019
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I have found that the areas where I applied stone chip have peeled off, it doesn't adhere as well as the underbody wax.
In hindsight, I would not have bothered with stonechip and just sprayed underbody wax on all surfaces. Goes on, stays on! 2016 D4 HSE 1998 110 TUM HS FFR Hard Top XD WOLF 1982 Series 3 SWB Petrol |
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28th Jan 2016 4:32pm |
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| Striker Member Since: 04 May 2013 Location: Yorkshire Posts: 127 |
I thought it was cavity wax that you sprayed before stone chip.
If I did it again I would not get any stone chip spray and just use cavity wax then underbody wax  Cheers Andy
Never Knowingly Understood |
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28th Jan 2016 5:44pm |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5006
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Correct, cavity wax 3125 then stone chip but do let the cavity wax dry properly before stone chip. The new stone chip is lovely to use and works a treat in my experience, has zinc in it, goes on really nicely better than the old Drohnex stuff. That won,t be the correct spelling, have not used it for a while for reference!
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28th Jan 2016 9:31pm |
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| CDN38 Member Since: 14 Nov 2014 Location: Courtenay, BC Posts: 729  
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Chris, are you saying it is OK to put the stone chip on top of the 3125 cavity wax if it's dry? (say, 24 hours to set up and skin over) it's a Landrover thing...
my renovation thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic40792.html |
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28th Jan 2016 9:40pm |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5006
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Yes, actually recommended by Dinitrol (see a few pages back on here!) as the cavity wax is quite gluey so helps it stay on
A light coating will do, no need to wait 24 hours, a couple will do if conditions are suitable... |
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28th Jan 2016 10:01pm |
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| CDN38 Member Since: 14 Nov 2014 Location: Courtenay, BC Posts: 729
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Excellent! Glad to be 100% on this now. I thought it was the other way around and there were adhesion problems with stone chip on top of 3125.
I'm looking forward to getting on with mine (once the renovation is finished). Doing the Dinitrol without having to work around the fuel tank is going to give great access to everything in the rear section. it's a Landrover thing... my renovation thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic40792.html |
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28th Jan 2016 10:07pm |
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| RRUK Site Supporter Member Since: 31 Mar 2010 Location: Leicestershire Posts: 2019
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You spray the cavitay wax all over the exterior of the chassis and axles etc, to aid adhesion of the underbody wax. 2016 D4 HSE
1998 110 TUM HS FFR Hard Top XD WOLF 1982 Series 3 SWB Petrol |
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29th Jan 2016 11:07am |
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| RichLech Member Since: 09 Nov 2015 Location: West Sussex Posts: 115 
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Many thanks for all the advice.
I have posted another question in this section of the forum - about the two approx. 5cm diameter holes in each chassis rail which seem to be designed to allow mud into the chassis! I would appreciate any thoughts on that as well. Many thanks. |
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31st Jan 2016 3:23pm |
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| Cake Member Since: 10 Jun 2015 Location: Essex Posts: 277
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This is a fantastic guide and will be undertaking it myself shortly
Car is a 2012 with nothing extremely rusty. Should you or anyone used rust converter Inside the chassis or just on the outside on visible rust? |
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1st Feb 2016 8:28pm |
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| X4SKP Member Since: 29 Nov 2013 Location: Berkshire Posts: 2293 
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Hello RichLech Do yon mean these holes...bottom left  one at each end of the Chassis Rail both sides
Designed to take the wiring loom OS but nothing NS on a RHD Vehicle Look at them as a large drain holes... 
 Click image to enlarge SKIP https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html |
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4th Feb 2016 9:05pm |
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| RichLech Member Since: 09 Nov 2015 Location: West Sussex Posts: 115
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Yes, they are the holes. Two on each chassis rail; the one in your picture and one near the front outrigger. Neither are used for a wiring loom on my 90.
Don't see them being much good as drain holes as they are not at the bottom of the vertical side of the chassis, but about 2cm up the side. There are drain holes in the horizontal bottom of the chassis rail. The front holes in particular are ideally positioned to catch any mud and water from the front wheels when on right or left lock. I think I will probably seal them as there are plenty of other drain/ventilation holes along the chassis. |
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4th Feb 2016 9:44pm |
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| X4SKP Member Since: 29 Nov 2013 Location: Berkshire Posts: 2293
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Hello RichLech
If you're thinking of using large Grommets have a look at these guys, they will probably have the size you need... http://www.grommets.co.uk/products/grommets/blind-rubber/ SKIP https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html |
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4th Feb 2016 11:15pm |
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| RichLech Member Since: 09 Nov 2015 Location: West Sussex Posts: 115
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Brilliant thanks. They are just 5 miles away from me.
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4th Feb 2016 11:42pm |
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