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CDN38



Member Since: 14 Nov 2014
Location: Courtenay, BC
Posts: 729

Canada 2000 Defender 110 Td5 SW Bonatti Grey
I have applied Dinitrol in about 12c temperature. As a precaution, I had the cans sitting in warm water for about an hour before use to ensure it flowed smoothly. Seemed to be no problems. Left lots of time between applications of the different products (overnight).

I used the stone chip on the upper portions of the inner fenders, Although it isn't self healing, it is a harder finish, and with the amount of small stones and gravel that fling up into those spaces, it holds up better to the constant abrasion, as well it has sound deadening qualities. Keep in mind, the stone chip does not adhere to the 3125 Cavity Wax, so where you are going to spray stone chip, make sure you don't have the 3125 under it.
Post #497087 27th Jan 2016 6:30pm
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WickhamMan



Member Since: 21 Dec 2014
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 3

United Kingdom 
I'm a great fan of ACF50 and have used it for years, just trying to work out what Dinitrol products to use - sorry to say for a Disco2 not a Defender!
Post #497261 28th Jan 2016 7:57am
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RRUK
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Member Since: 31 Mar 2010
Location: Leicestershire
Posts: 2025

United Kingdom 
I have found that the areas where I applied stone chip have peeled off, it doesn't adhere as well as the underbody wax.

In hindsight, I would not have bothered with stonechip and just sprayed underbody wax on all surfaces. Goes on, stays on! 2016 D4 HSE

1998 110 TUM HS FFR Hard Top XD WOLF

1982 Series 3 SWB Petrol
Post #497432 28th Jan 2016 3:32pm
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Striker



Member Since: 04 May 2013
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 127

I thought it was cavity wax that you sprayed before stone chip.

If I did it again I would not get any stone chip spray and just use cavity wax then underbody wax Thumbs Up Cheers Andy


Never Knowingly Understood
Post #497458 28th Jan 2016 4:44pm
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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
Posts: 5012

United Kingdom 
Correct, cavity wax 3125 then stone chip but do let the cavity wax dry properly before stone chip. The new stone chip is lovely to use and works a treat in my experience, has zinc in it, goes on really nicely better than the old Drohnex stuff. That won,t be the correct spelling, have not used it for a while for reference!
Post #497578 28th Jan 2016 8:31pm
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CDN38



Member Since: 14 Nov 2014
Location: Courtenay, BC
Posts: 729

Canada 2000 Defender 110 Td5 SW Bonatti Grey
Chris, are you saying it is OK to put the stone chip on top of the 3125 cavity wax if it's dry? (say, 24 hours to set up and skin over) it's a Landrover thing...

my renovation thread:
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic40792.html
Post #497588 28th Jan 2016 8:40pm
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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
Posts: 5012

United Kingdom 
Yes, actually recommended by Dinitrol (see a few pages back on here!) as the cavity wax is quite gluey so helps it stay on Thumbs Up A light coating will do, no need to wait 24 hours, a couple will do if conditions are suitable...
Post #497603 28th Jan 2016 9:01pm
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CDN38



Member Since: 14 Nov 2014
Location: Courtenay, BC
Posts: 729

Canada 2000 Defender 110 Td5 SW Bonatti Grey
Excellent! Glad to be 100% on this now. I thought it was the other way around and there were adhesion problems with stone chip on top of 3125.

I'm looking forward to getting on with mine (once the renovation is finished). Doing the Dinitrol without having to work around the fuel tank is going to give great access to everything in the rear section. it's a Landrover thing...

my renovation thread:
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic40792.html
Post #497608 28th Jan 2016 9:07pm
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RRUK
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Member Since: 31 Mar 2010
Location: Leicestershire
Posts: 2025

United Kingdom 
You spray the cavitay wax all over the exterior of the chassis and axles etc, to aid adhesion of the underbody wax. 2016 D4 HSE

1998 110 TUM HS FFR Hard Top XD WOLF

1982 Series 3 SWB Petrol
Post #497754 29th Jan 2016 10:07am
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RichLech



Member Since: 09 Nov 2015
Location: West Sussex
Posts: 115

United Kingdom 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Keswick Green
Many thanks for all the advice.

I have posted another question in this section of the forum - about the two approx. 5cm diameter holes in each chassis rail which seem to be designed to allow mud into the chassis! I would appreciate any thoughts on that as well.

Many thanks.
Post #498623 31st Jan 2016 2:23pm
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Cake



Member Since: 10 Jun 2015
Location: Essex
Posts: 277

United Kingdom 
This is a fantastic guide and will be undertaking it myself shortly Smile

Car is a 2012 with nothing extremely rusty.

Should you or anyone used rust converter Inside the chassis or just on the outside on visible rust?
Post #499260 1st Feb 2016 7:28pm
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X4SKP



Member Since: 29 Nov 2013
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 2295

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey
RichLech wrote:
Many thanks for all the advice.

I have posted another question in this section of the forum - about the two approx. 5cm diameter holes in each chassis rail which seem to be designed to allow mud into the chassis! I would appreciate any thoughts on that as well.

Many thanks.


Hello RichLech

Do yon mean these holes...bottom left Question one at each end of the Chassis Rail both sides
Designed to take the wiring loom OS but nothing NS on a RHD Vehicle
Look at them as a large drain holes... Exclamation


Click image to enlarge
 SKIP
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html
Post #500580 4th Feb 2016 8:05pm
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RichLech



Member Since: 09 Nov 2015
Location: West Sussex
Posts: 115

United Kingdom 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Keswick Green
Yes, they are the holes. Two on each chassis rail; the one in your picture and one near the front outrigger. Neither are used for a wiring loom on my 90.

Don't see them being much good as drain holes as they are not at the bottom of the vertical side of the chassis, but about 2cm up the side. There are drain holes in the horizontal bottom of the chassis rail.

The front holes in particular are ideally positioned to catch any mud and water from the front wheels when on right or left lock.

I think I will probably seal them as there are plenty of other drain/ventilation holes along the chassis.
Post #500614 4th Feb 2016 8:44pm
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X4SKP



Member Since: 29 Nov 2013
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 2295

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey
Hello RichLech

If you're thinking of using large Grommets have a look at these guys,
they will probably have the size you need...

http://www.grommets.co.uk/products/grommets/blind-rubber/ SKIP
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html
Post #500656 4th Feb 2016 10:15pm
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RichLech



Member Since: 09 Nov 2015
Location: West Sussex
Posts: 115

United Kingdom 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Keswick Green
Brilliant thanks. They are just 5 miles away from me.
Post #500672 4th Feb 2016 10:42pm
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