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| Rallymental Member Since: 17 Aug 2015 Location: The Garden of England Posts: 468   
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Hi Zag,
Pm sent, thanks |
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27th Aug 2015 1:05pm |
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| RRUK Site Supporter Member Since: 31 Mar 2010 Location: Leicestershire Posts: 2019
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The link to the PDF is very easily missed. https://dinitrol.co.uk/Portals/0/docs/Land...agrams.pdf 2016 D4 HSE 1998 110 TUM HS FFR Hard Top XD WOLF 1982 Series 3 SWB Petrol |
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27th Aug 2015 1:24pm |
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| wonderdust Member Since: 20 Jan 2015 Location: uk Posts: 3 |
Hi all
can anyone tell me about how many of each Dinitrol products are required or the best kit available for for a Defender 90, getting mine steamed cleaned tomorrow and hopefully ill be able to get it sprayed before the weather turns. Many Thanks Andy |
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7th Sep 2015 10:11am |
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| X4SKP Member Since: 29 Nov 2013 Location: Berkshire Posts: 2293 
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Hello wonderdust
My experience is 10 pages back... http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic10467-165.html The advice I got from various sources (3) was around X3 Ltr 3125 (Cavity Wax) and X8 Ltr 4941 (Surface Wax) for a 90. I bought X2 RC 900 Rust Converter Aerosol Cans, with a Extension Wand X2 Ltr ML Penetrating Fluid Schutz Cans X4 Ltr 3125 HS Cavity Wax X10 Ltr 4941 Surface Wax 1 Schutz Spay Gun with Extension wand 1 Ltr of fe-123 Rust Converter I used X2 RC 900 Rust Converter Aerosol Cans X2 Ltr ML Penetrating Fluid Cans X3.5 Ltr 3125 HS Cavity Wax Cans X9 Ltr 4941 Surface Wax Cans 0.3 Ltr of fe-123 Rust Converter Plus...to recently treat the Bonnet X0.5 Ltr 3125 HS Cavity Wax X1 Ltr 4941 Surface Wax So for a 90 overall I would say X4 3125 HS Cavity Wax X10 4941 Surface Wax This will allow you to get the 3125 everywhere Zagato (and others) recommend and 'mist' coat then add 2 possibly 3 good layers of 4941, everywhere 'essential' Good Luck... 
 Click image to enlarge SKIP https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html |
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7th Sep 2015 11:04am |
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| wonderdust Member Since: 20 Jan 2015 Location: uk Posts: 3 |
Many thanks X4SKP, that is a great help.
Andy |
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7th Sep 2015 8:23pm |
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| Venomator Member Since: 25 Aug 2014 Location: Peterborough Posts: 2087
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Wowsas Zag, and you follow that religiously in your application... 
Even down to the plug and drill & plug for all those holes all over the truck... 
By the by, my Keswick has landed at UT and will be ready before the middle of October, I will get you a date just as soon as I know it...  Rog...
The GREEN One... MY2016 Urban Truck Build Thread - http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic40548....al[/color] |
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8th Sep 2015 7:44am |
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| CDN38 Member Since: 14 Nov 2014 Location: Courtenay, BC Posts: 729  
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Today my 4 Dinitrol kits and 4 litres of RC800 cleared customs and were ready for pick up at the Vancouver air freight terminal. I had ordered from Rejel, had to have all the kits shipped to a dangerous goods packaging company in the UK, fully document and manifest as they are classified as dangerous goods, and damn near impossible to air freight. Most places said that int wouldn't be possible to air freight. Dinitrol isn't sold here, and Rejel isn't able to ship out of country (I'm guessing distribution rights). A bit of a long way around, but from everything I have read on the forum, this is definitely the way to go.
Looking forward to getting the job done in a couple weeks. I'll be replacing my rear upsatand in conjunction with the treatment, so I will be able to get every little crack & crevice. The other 3 kits will be going to some fellow local Defender owners here in Vancouver. Zag, thanks for all your input and guidance on this thread. Click image to enlarge |
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9th Sep 2015 8:29am |
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| Olsey Member Since: 17 Mar 2015 Location: Doha, Qatar Posts: 27 
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That's great CDN38! Do you mind posting how much in UK pounds it was for the dangerous goods shipping to Canada? I've had no luck with the Dinitrol distributor here in Australia and this would give me an idea of what to expect shipping costs.
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14th Sep 2015 2:58am |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5006
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Venomater, Don,t worry I won,t be taking a drill to your new Defender , just an extension nozzle
 The diagram is for an old leaf sprung Series but a lot is still relevant. The later Land Rover Defender Water Ingress guide is equally relevant although certainly not overly promoted by Land Rover as buyers would realise the extent of what needs doing to have a dry Landy e.g. Sealing windows, rivets, cappings etc. It may put new buyers off that want to use a Defender as a car rather than workhorse out in the field! The Water Ingress Guide has been available since TDi days and updated but I bet half the dealerships don't even know about it...
Glad you got it sorted CDN38 Olsey can you get Dinitrol or Bilt Hamber exported direct from Germany, that is where Rejel get their stocks. There maybe a German agent able to supply and ship!
Wonderdust have a look on Rejel.com. They now do a kit for a Defender DINO2LR (can still use DINO2L as I mention in this thread, it,s just that they have swapped 5 underbody cans for 5 stone chip!). So 10 cans for underbody of your choice stone chip or underbody and 7 cans of cavity wax, I tend to use more of both as I don,t just to the chassis. Eg. Bulkhead, rear tub supports, rear wheel arch, underneath sides even though it is galvanised always worth a coating anyway as the fasteners are not etc etc. You will probably end up using 15 cans of underbody or stone chip and about 10 cans of cavity wax, you really have to run the cavity wax extension nozzle up and down the chassis slowly, a lot just pours out onto the ground but at least you know you are definitely covering the insides which of course is where these things rot out from first : Good luck happy to help if you need any advice give me call...
IMPORTANT buy proper breathing apparatus the paper masks are useless and you don,t want this toxic gunk in your lungs! I buy a full face and mask only from Protective Masks Direct 01435 897501 ask for the most comprehensive filters. They will supply one for the toxic fumes (you are basically spraying on glue!) and one to block the actual particals, this is a P3 the other I cannot remember. Other places sell masks also, will be around £100 plus filters but worth it to save your lungs!! |
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15th Sep 2015 7:49am |
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| CDN38 Member Since: 14 Nov 2014 Location: Courtenay, BC Posts: 729
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Question for you Chris.
The kit came with 3 litres of the 445 Black Stone-chip. They never used it in the application video, and there's really not much info out there on it. I'm assuming it's a anti abrasive coating for the inner fenders , front and rear. Have you used it? Is it worth applying over top of the 4941? And yes, definitely using a proper respirator, with full face coverage. P100 99.97%filtering efficiency. Thanks. |
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6th Oct 2015 6:34am |
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| Olsey Member Since: 17 Mar 2015 Location: Doha, Qatar Posts: 27
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Hey Zagato, sorry I only lust noticed your post. I haven't had a good search for a retailer in Germany but will have a look now. Scott (CDN38) has provided me with a quote for shipping a pack to Australia. Thanks Scott!
I will get onto this soon but haven't got the funds to do at the moment. Hopefully in the next month or two. |
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6th Oct 2015 6:45am |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5006
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Better to spray on cavity wax 3125 then put on your 445 stone chip |
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7th Oct 2015 9:28am |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5006
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just spoken to Rejel, it,s really difficult getting Dinitrol into certain countries. they got some into Cyprus but by boat not plane. A shipping company has bought from Rejel.com to get it into Japan but it,s stuck at customs. Canada is tricky, it has to go through America, Australia very tricky, a guy did have some over there but only a few cavity wax now. you really have to make it in the country Germany won,t send it either apparently... Getting it through customs will be impossible apparently! |
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7th Oct 2015 9:37am |
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| RRUK Site Supporter Member Since: 31 Mar 2010 Location: Leicestershire Posts: 2019
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In the instructions with the kit from Rejel it specifically says NOT to spray the Stone chip over the top of the wax, or vice versa. I don't know why, maybe they don't cure properly or something. I tried calling them to ask but no one ever answered the phone, it just kept going to voicemail. 
I used the black wax on the metal parts, chassis, outriggers, footwells etc, and left the stonechip for doing the wheelboxes, under the floor pans and the front wheel arches. I'm hoping it will reduce a bit of panel din, protect what's there and of course it just looks nicer and more uniform all round, plus it will help seal it all. The Stonechip layer is not self healing, whereas the wax is. 2016 D4 HSE 1998 110 TUM HS FFR Hard Top XD WOLF 1982 Series 3 SWB Petrol |
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7th Oct 2015 9:54am |
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