 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Corrosion Prevention Guide! |
 
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| Def90 Member Since: 17 Jan 2015 Location: Kent Posts: 257   
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Hi all
Very good guide and informative . New to a Defender and expecting delivery in around three weeks! Any recommendation who to use for the full Dinitrol treatment in and around the Kent area. Thanks Nick |
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18th Jan 2015 1:16pm |
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| Fellrunner Member Since: 28 Sep 2014 Location: Wandering Posts: 255  
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Make the effort - go and see Chris (Zagato)
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18th Jan 2015 4:51pm |
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| Def90 Member Since: 17 Jan 2015 Location: Kent Posts: 257
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After reading a few other post's that could be the way forward.
I take you weighed up the potential warranty issues before you had yours done ? |
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18th Jan 2015 5:20pm |
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| Fellrunner Member Since: 28 Sep 2014 Location: Wandering Posts: 255
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There was just no question for me. It was at the very top of my list, along with security.
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18th Jan 2015 5:24pm |
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| Def90 Member Since: 17 Jan 2015 Location: Kent Posts: 257
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Thanks will PM Chris.
The security question,should I just go for a tracker ? |
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18th Jan 2015 5:59pm |
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| Fellrunner Member Since: 28 Sep 2014 Location: Wandering Posts: 255
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Make yourself a cuppa and get comfy - loads of relevant questions and great advice on here. Just search on security related key words. People have different views, but a tracker is a great start. Call me cautious, but I ended up with a tracker, disk lock, pedal lock, factory alarm and cctv.
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18th Jan 2015 7:13pm |
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| Def90 Member Since: 17 Jan 2015 Location: Kent Posts: 257
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Spoken to Chris and he's very helpful.
Booked in for February for the full corrosion prevention treatment. Now onto security and sound proofing. |
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22nd Jan 2015 11:00pm |
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| MOve Member Since: 24 Dec 2014 Location: East Anglia Posts: 54  
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Hi Def90,
My first Defender arrives in March, also booked in with Chris. 
Be interested in what you decide for security and noise. Lots on the forum, which makes deciding more difficult! 
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23rd Jan 2015 8:11am |
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| mikeh Member Since: 05 Feb 2015 Location: South Coast Posts: 28
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Hi
Newbie to the site after having read quite a few of the posts on corrosion. Having got a 90 on order, didn't realise a new one would need quite so much work!! Based in West Sussex so wanted to get in touch with Zagato to chat about getting it booked in when it arrives but can't pm just yet
Top of a growing list of things I didn't know I needed |
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6th Feb 2015 11:22pm |
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| mikeh Member Since: 05 Feb 2015 Location: South Coast Posts: 28
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Very useful guide by the way!!
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7th Feb 2015 1:07pm |
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| Black Puma Member Since: 31 Jan 2015 Location: Sydney Posts: 178 
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Firstly, thank you Zagato for this guide with photos, and special mention to SKIP as well for additional detailed and illustrated advice.
I have read the entire thread a couple of times now and think I am slowly understanding what to do. I don't usually work on vehicles in any way. My Defender is 3.5 years old, and had it from new, is in pretty fair condition underneath. My questions: 1. Being based in Australia, I cannot find the Dintrol kit here. I may eventually have a kit sent over from the UK. Is it worth investigating alternatives that can be sourced here like Fertan for rust conversion. https://www.whitworths.com.au/main_itemdet...olutePage= I also read there is a 3M protection spray for surfaces. There seem to be a few options, as I have seen on the thread. I am just concerned that with my current lack of car knowledge, it would be better for to follow this guide with Dintrol. 2. I have found ACF-50, so I will get started with that in the meantime. I am going to follow Zagato's procedure quoted below. Should I spray anywhere else whilst waiting to solve the Dintrol dilemma? I'm happy to cover the whole car in ACF-50 to make it easy 
Do I need to do the super clean before ACF-50?
3. When/if I do get the Dintrol kit. Is it possible to tackle the process in sections? It all seems a bit daunting, but bite size portions over a few months would work really well for me. 4. Cleaning the car (I guess this is something I could google). Do I need a jet wash or can I use a brush and elbow power? I have always been weary or high pressure pushing water and dirt into places it couldn't reach on it's own. Would be great if anyone has a guide or tips of the washing prep. Thanks again guys. I have been enjoying the process of searching out the listed details of the defender and becoming familiar with what's what. I am sure I will have more questions. |
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18th Feb 2015 1:52am |
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| X4SKP Member Since: 29 Nov 2013 Location: Berkshire Posts: 2293 
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Hello Black Puma
Welcome aboard…and there was I thinking it’s only us Northern Europeans with our various weather systems that have to go down the extra corrosion protection route…but of course that’s wrong... 
My take on your questions… 1. Fertan is fantastic stuff; I used it extensively on a boat, steel hull, 10 years ago, now sold but at 8 years in it was showing no signs of break down. It reviews and tests well but most of the evidence you will find is anecdotal…often the best type, as with any product (if basically good stuff) the success of its use will be in the preparation of the receiving surface and its application. POR15 is also revered by those who have used it so that could be another route for you in OZ The Dinitrol does go on well, especially the 4941 surface wax, so if as you say you are new to this type of work, follow the advice here, especially the safety stuff when you get under the Defender, It needs to be safely raised off the ground so that you can maneuver easily, it’s possible to just lay on your back and do this but I wouldn’t. Obvious but don’t think you can just hold your breath a bit and spray away, and personally I wouldn’t use those ER type breathing masks, with the ally nose crimps…they are just rubbish for this type of work, you should get a proper paint spraying breathing mask with replacement cartridge filters (one centrally located or one left one right mounted). The Dinitrol you breathe in will be no good for you. 2. I have used the ACF-50 both on the Defender and my Motorbike… but... and this is a personal view, in my mind it made sense to clean the Defender as well as possible, to make it grease, oil, dirt, and grit free, I also flushed the internal chassis with Chlor-X a salt remover. I then treated all surface rust, but I didn’t then coat all the surfaces with another product (like ACF-50) before applying the Dinitrol. The only products I used were Dinitrol in the belief that one could (and was claimed) go on top of the other. So RC 900 converter mainly inside the chassis ML Penetrating Fluid, inside the chassis but also to get right in all those lapped joints on the Defender that suck the water in, I do hope Land Rover engineer these basic problems out of the replacement. Using ACF-50 first may have absolutely no detrimental effect on the later applied Dinitrol and I acknowledge Zagato’s experience here over me, but I didn’t do that, I wanted the Dinitrol to stick and stay stuck and as I said in my mind get the surfaces super clean and then apply was my route…been under it recently (full service even had a few gentle scraps and its good…I really like this stuff). Just a quick … for ACF-50 I have now used it, a bit like I use WD40, on quite a few of the things listed on Zagato’s list.
3. Depending on how much time you have and your weather ‘window’ you could do this in sections, but I wouldn’t, preparing the vehicle, raising in, cleaning it, stripping it, you will only want to do once, also when your dressed up in your bio-hazard suite you will want to limit the number of times you do this... 
As preparation will be easily more than 50% of the effort here (I’m sounding like my father) trying to break this down into stages will increase the overall effort required, doable clearly but more effort. 4. Cleaning the Defender. I used a jet wash it does help, but a hose with a fine jet is probably as good, the internals of the chassis doesn't really need the power of the jet wash unless they are full of mud or sand. The power washers are good at dislodging compacted mud and grit in corners, my chassis had not been submerged in mud or a slurry of sand and water so had only road grime, probably salt too and whatever else gets in there after 1000 days from new, being driven on tarmac roads in England. You are right about the dangers of high pressure cleaners, I used to do motocross riding and if you used one to clean your pride and joy (that you couldn't see for mud) you would blast oil and grease out of ‘sealed’ bearings and as you say probably even introduce girt to places that it wouldn't otherwise have reached. Gentle is probably best, after using your de-greasers (if you have an oily Defender...  ) and salt removers (if your government still uses this on the roads... ) flood the chassis and rinse them out. You are basically right get under there and use elbow power...
Lastly… I did what you have done read and reread this tread / guide… I found myself getting somewhat paranoid about my 'process', my research file grew, (I’m an engineer by training so we love a process...  ), I’m sure also that my objective thinking was challenged…as I wanted to do the best I could form my Defender, clearly we are driven by greater powers than just pure logic here...
Don’t worry too much about slight variations to the ways members have tackled this, basic principles of applying coatings IMO applies here, clean it, then coat it, following the instructions on the tin. Good Luck Black Puma… SKIP https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html |
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18th Feb 2015 11:45am |
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| Black Puma Member Since: 31 Jan 2015 Location: Sydney Posts: 178
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Fantastic, very helpful advice there SKIP. Thank you
Dintrol sounds like the way to go. I'm going to start with a small section, and if successful, look at taking the rest on in one hit. I appreciate the heads up regarding the toxic fumes! |
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19th Feb 2015 5:56am |
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| LR90XS2011 Member Since: 05 Apr 2011 Location: bickenhill Posts: 3633 
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I did my own when nearly new, dinitrol 4 years later still looking good, no corrosion on screws or fittings that were ACFd no comment from dealers when doing warranty work other than that it looked a good job and the car was in good nick DEFENDER 90 TDCI XS,
I hope everyone is well and your land rovers make you happy |
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19th Feb 2015 7:25am |
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