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| lukev01 Member Since: 24 Mar 2012 Location: Bedfordshire Posts: 412   
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10% off any Dinitrol product. I have copied the text below, from the email I got today.
You're invited to visit Dinitrol stand 1-29 at the Practical Classics Car Restoration Show at the NEC in Birmingham on the 12th to 13th April 2014. The Practical Classics Car Restoration Show will offer inspirational restoration advice, demonstrations, hands on experience and must-have products to restore a classic car. If you are restoring a classic car, want to learn more about keeping them on the road, are looking to appoint a professional restorer or simply love classic cars then this is the show to attend. Click on the link below to register to receive the latest news and updates regarding this event. By registering you will also qualify for a 10% discount on any Dinitrol product ordered from our e-commerce website, www.rejel.com Hyperlink won't copy across but I think you can get to the same point via the website above. 1970 Series 2A 88" |
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2nd Apr 2014 7:49pm |
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| JMG Member Since: 16 Apr 2014 Location: Surrey Posts: 222  
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Can anyone get me any contact details please .
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16th Apr 2014 11:53am |
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| funrover Member Since: 12 Dec 2010 Location: Yorkshire Posts: 130 
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Quick question, this was alluded to but not sure if it was Windscreen sealant or Sikaflex pushed into panel gaps? Editor of FunRover - One blog. Read it!
Land Rover rebuild video series here: |
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22nd Apr 2014 2:07pm |
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| X4SKP Member Since: 29 Nov 2013 Location: Berkshire Posts: 2295 
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Hello Andy RV
I have been preparing to give my 90 the Dinitrol Treatment so would like to know a bit more. 1. What Dinitrol Products did you use (other than ML)? The list can quickly grow, currently mine looks like this... RC 900 for Cavities and Seams where a Rust Converter is needed. ML Penetrating Primer for general Cavities and Seams. 3125 for all Internal Chassis Box Sections and Bodywork Cavities + a 'mist layer' for all External Surfaces. 445 for Wheel Arches (Stone Chip Protection). 4941 for general all over Final Coat. 2. Did you use each type of Dinitrol from a Schutz can? I intend going down this route and will use a Schutz Gun and Compressor to apply, if you did the same, was it difficult to get this working well? 3. Any photos... or was it just too messy? 
DIY...NITROL Thanks SKIP https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html |
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6th May 2014 10:21pm |
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| Andy RV Member Since: 26 Apr 2014 Location: Somewhere Posts: 63
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I bought this kit;
http://www.rejel.com/rejel-store/classic-kits/din01m.aspx I used the ML3125 in the cavities and doors then 4941 on the chassis / underbody. I also bought a can of ACF-50 for the hinges and any other exposed metal work on the exterior. Yes I used the supplied gun running from my little 25 litre compressor which kept up no problem. When spraying the 4941 through the gun with the standard spray nozzle I ran the air at full pressure and it worked really well, it's got quite a concentrated spray into areas that you physically can't get into. For the ML3125 I initially sprayed at full pressure, this caused the base of the can to bulge and emptied it in 3 'squirts', it pressurized the can so even when my finger was off the trigger it poured out of the nozzle. After that I turned the air down and it sprayed on really well. You need to be careful not to kink the hose because as soon as you do the can pressurizes, then when the kink is released it will release the pressure in the form of ML squirting everywhere! No photos but it looks ok! At the end of the day it's just thick black waxy gunge. |
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7th May 2014 2:32pm |
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| Andy RV Member Since: 26 Apr 2014 Location: Somewhere Posts: 63
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Also ensure you have plenty of old rags for cleaning up with, I used petrol which worked well, thinners would work as well.
If you care about your drive put a tarpaulin down, do the cavity wax last it drips out. To clean the gun out I filled one of the empty dinitrol cans with petrol then sprayed it through until it ran clear. |
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7th May 2014 2:36pm |
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| Joe the Plumber Member Since: 18 Dec 2013 Location: Midlands Posts: 907 
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I stuck duct tape over all the holes in the bottom of the chassis rails and cross members before I did my cavities. After a few days, you take it off and the dripping is much reduced. Just remember to clear the holes out again to allow water to escape later on.
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7th May 2014 3:13pm |
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| couplands Member Since: 31 Aug 2011 Location: Peak District & Cornwall Posts: 1826 
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Blimey, sounds like a flame thrower waiting to go off....got to be a candidate for the Darwin Awards.. 
Cheers Simon |
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7th May 2014 3:16pm |
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| Andy RV Member Since: 26 Apr 2014 Location: Somewhere Posts: 63
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Just don't spray near any sources of ignition, common sense.
Plenty of flammable liquids are sprayed everyday, paints, oils, de-greasers ect and I don't see that many people walking around on fire!.. |
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7th May 2014 4:23pm |
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| X4SKP Member Since: 29 Nov 2013 Location: Berkshire Posts: 2295
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Thanks Andy RV that's useful.
Based on the principle of First Prepare...I have been cleaning mine thoroughly recently trying to ensure all mud, oil and a recent diesel fuel leak (breather hose) are removed before the Dinitrol goes on. Did you remove the front wheel arch inner linings and rear light guard linings? Even though mines just over 3 years old, and had an easy life, this cleaning scrutiny has proved one thing, the poor quality of finishing of some of the aftermarket accessories fitted. I have removed the side steps and NAS rear step for a full strip down and tougher refinishing. I think the standard LR mud flap brackets are also destine for a rethink. SKIP https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html |
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7th May 2014 4:56pm |
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| Andy RV Member Since: 26 Apr 2014 Location: Somewhere Posts: 63
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No I didn't remove any of the linings, I removed all of the mud flaps and the entire tow bar assembly. Between the rear cross member and mud flaps struck me as an area likely to collect mud and moisture.
Mine is only 12 days old so cleaning was easy.  |
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7th May 2014 5:11pm |
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| X4SKP Member Since: 29 Nov 2013 Location: Berkshire Posts: 2295
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Thanks and good luck with your Defender. SKIP
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html |
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7th May 2014 5:17pm |
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| Macpaul Member Since: 25 Mar 2013 Location: SW Surrey Posts: 439 
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Hi Zagato,
You have a private message. 2003 Td5 110 Hardtop Now a 2013 110 USW too. |
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30th Jun 2014 5:56am |
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| Scotm Member Since: 28 Feb 2014 Location: Aberdeenshire Posts: 666  
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Please could anyone advise if it is worth the effort to give the chassis a coat of say chassis black paint (after treating any rust) and before dinitrol treatment?
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7th Jul 2014 9:56am |
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