 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Corrosion Prevention Guide! |
 
|
|
|
| Scotm Member Since: 28 Feb 2014 Location: Aberdeenshire Posts: 666   
|
Many thanks - I went with Bilt Hamber products without painting and it came out great. How I got on is summarised in this thread:
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic27877-15.html |
||
11th Aug 2014 2:26pm |
|
| sharpie90 Member Since: 14 Aug 2014 Location: Sussex Posts: 3  
|
I take delivery of a new 90 SW in late August. I'd like to get done the type of work Zagato describes. Any recommendations out there as to who would do a good job for be around Surrey or Sussex?
 |
||
|
15th Aug 2014 6:00am |
|
| Force64 Member Since: 02 Jan 2014 Location: Gatwick Posts: 196 
|
Zagato lives in Surrey!
Andy Defender Td5 XS90 |
||
|
15th Aug 2014 6:09am |
|
| sharpie90 Member Since: 14 Aug 2014 Location: Sussex Posts: 3
|
Thanks, I'll send a PM
Cheers |
||
|
15th Aug 2014 6:11am |
|
| jomara Member Since: 26 Oct 2009 Location: Lanarkshire Posts: 1790 
|
A massive thanks to Chris (Zagato) for doing a top job on my 110!!! The attention to detail is amazing and the advice and knowledge he has regarding Dinitrol ACF50 and the do's and dont's is priceless!!!
Well worth the run to Surrey to have the peace of mind that my car is fully protected, once again thanks Zag  2014 110 2.2TDCi XS Station wagon
1971 Bowler Tomcat 88 4.2 V8 Auto 2022 110 D250 XS Edition - Gone 2024 110 D250 X-Dynamic HSE |
||
|
20th Aug 2014 11:43am |
|
| Crawford Member Since: 23 Aug 2010 Location: Buckinghamshire Posts: 12 
|
Chris
You don't fancy do another one do you, not due to be delivered until the end of November though? I'm not allowed to PM you directly as I'm new to the forum .
Many thanks |
||
|
17th Sep 2014 12:53pm |
|
| EastFreo Member Since: 24 May 2014 Location: Perth Posts: 103 
|
Thanks for such a useful guide. I get my new Santorini Black 110 next Tuesday and will put these tips to good use the following weekend as I plan to keep this car until stumps. I would certainly prefer to ask Zagato to do the job but not sure if he travels to a Western Australia!
|
||
|
17th Sep 2014 2:38pm |
|
| X4SKP Member Since: 29 Nov 2013 Location: Berkshire Posts: 2295 
|
Hi All,
Thought I would share the DIY experience of protecting the underside of my Defender with Dinitrol. To sum up the starting point, I have a 2010 90, with 10K on the clock, it has been garaged from new and hasn't seen any significant off road use, but it has been through 3 winters. 1. It’s dirtier than you think…  Click image to enlarge I’m not talking about actually applying the Dinitrol, which easily can be, unless you have just taken delivery of a new Defender, it will be more dirty than you think under there, and may have more surface rust too (than it should), particularly on the running gear. Having now covered in detail the underside of a youngish Defender, it’s clear that Land Rover still has those ‘dirt gets into and stays’ places together with an approach at Solihull, that results in some parts only just about being painted. If you do this to your Defender (properly) it will be one of the most significant long term steps you can take to keep it looking good. Land Rover really should have sorted this aspect beyond the level they have before they ship a new one, especially as many will see hard work. I would argue it should be better protected under there than it is, maybe they will sort this out on the replacement…maybe not, but if you have one, and love it, and don’t want to see it corrode before your eyes, this or something close to this is what you should do. Although it’s obvious, preparation is key for this project so whatever time you think it will take, double it and then allow for a bit more. It’s tempting, if sort of clean to just get spraying, but don’t. Dinitrol is not cheap, so it’s worth cleaning the underside exceptionally well; not just powers wash down and wait to dry, consider degreaser and salt remover products if required and expect to have to brush out with lots of detergent every surface….every surface. If you get the first coat on well then subsequent coats and later in life ‘top up area’ coats will be easier. 2. Buy more than you think… Click image to enlarge The advice I got from various sources was around X3 Ltr 3125 (Cavity Wax) and X8 Ltr 4941 (Surface Wax) for a 90. I bought X2 RC 900 Rust Converter Aerosol Cans, with a Extension Wand X2 Ltr ML Penetrating Fluid Schutz Cans X4 Ltr 3125 HS Cavity Wax X10 Ltr 4941 Surface Wax 1 Schutz Spay Gun with Extension wand 1 Ltr of fe-123 Rust Converter 3. Strip more off your Defender than you think… Click image to enlarge I decided to take the fuel tank out… Click image to enlarge To allow the best access I could to the rear cross member, ‘corrosion central’ along with the bulkhead on a Defender. Note the forward facing tag welded (intermittent) seams… brilliant! 4. Get your Defender off the ground…Safely! Click image to enlarge The ‘horror’ stories I read about using this stuff made me decide to try and make access underneath as easy as possible. Also if you’re ‘in the thick of it’ close up to the business end of the spray gun you are going to get progressively covered with a fine ‘fog’ of Dinitrol, this stuff really sticks. Short of having a vehicle hoist, I used oak sleeper blocks and a 2 ½ ton jack to raise the Defender as high as I could safely. This greatly improved the room to maneuver underneath. I lifted mine almost 0.5 M. I then continued to remove everything necessary to allow better access to spray, wheels, front bumper, grill, lights, mud flaps, outer wheel arches, and fuel filter guard. Click image to enlarge I first used fe-123 to paint all visible surface rust (after abrasion)… it’s brilliant stuff, turns all rust black (so visually much better straight away) but the main thing is this product has performed really well on long term tests. Click image to enlarge Mask up anything you don’t want or shouldn’t spray, exhaust, and break discs (assembles). I also masked the fuel line connection points, (at both ends) and fuel filter. Click image to enlarge Depending on how ‘practiced’ you are using a spray gun, there will be some over spray which settles as a fine residue when spraying the wheel arches with an outward facing gun. Some masking right around the bottom edge of the bodywork deals with most of this. 5. Choose your order of attack… I reversed the order Zagato took, and sprayed all internal cavities and the chassis first, with the RC 900, followed by the ML and lastly the 3125 HS. The real corrosion ‘damage’ on a Defender will come from the inside out, and so getting this part of the treatment as good as it can be is the most valuable part of the job. The cavity wax does leak out of the numerous drainage holes that are pre-existing on a Defender, so in my view I did this stage first so that the ‘final’ external, 4941 surface wax coat would cover all of this and give the best ‘visual finish’ possible, as well as providing the base protection desired. The 3125 did need some ‘encouragement’ to spray well from the extension wand, I increased the pressure to 6 bars, shortened my spray gun hose and also enlarged the holes on the 360degree spray tip at the end of the wand, supplied with the Schulz Gun. My 24 Ltr compressor could have been the issue, trial and error did get me there but for all the rest of the spraying there was no issue. Click image to enlarge Removing the outer wheel arches, but not the front inner liner, allows you to get to most of the key areas needing coating. You can go further and remove the full inner liner too, but the gain, in my opinion is marginal. Click image to enlarge You can easily use a full 1 Ltr can of 4941 per rear wheel arch. The 4941 really is the business, it sprays exceptionally well. The rewards of doing this job are felt at this stage as the results begin to look really good quickly now. As others have said, avoid kinking the wand as it will ‘pop’ the can and you could (will) lose some wax. Click image to enlarge The Schutz gun I used spraying 4941 at around 6 Bar give a very controlled spread of wax (around 100mm in diameter, at a distance of 300-400mm) this meant I could get right in and up around the engine, gearbox and transfer box without masking them off, spraying in a very controlled way right up to the edge of where you want to stop with confidence. Being able to move around under the vehicle and if necessary get right in there was a great help. I managed to spray up and around the gearbox and transfer box, spraying all the body work surfaces without spraying the gear boxes at all, I have seen some choose to spray these also, but I left the engine and both gear boxes as standard. Click image to enlarge In total I gave the underside 3 coats and will ‘patch in’ as and when required in the future. Click image to enlarge The bumper got the treatment too! Since finishing the Defender, I have decided to also treat both the NAS rear and side steps too internally with Dinitrol, as well as giving these aftermarket accessories the epoxy painted finish that they should have had as standard. The only thing being scrapped and not refinished are the right angle steel brackets holding the mud flaps on, they are going to be replaced with stainless steel fabricated replacements, as the standard solution, being directly in the ‘firing line’ in my opinion are not fit for purpose. The Bonnet too will be removed and treated on its underside, (especially as its steel) and I plan to finish it with a tailored sound blanket. 6. Overall I used… Click image to enlarge X2 RC 900 Rust Converter Aerosol Cans X2 Ltr ML Penetrating Fluid Cans X3.5 Ltr 3125 HS Cavity Wax Cans X9 Ltr 4941 Surface Wax Cans 0.3 Ltr of fe-123 Rust Converter X2 Spray Over Suits (not good enough) X2 Set of Clothes! X3 Sets of Gloves X1 Pair of Trainers X2 3M Mask Filter Cartridges X1 Set of Goggles X1 Carpet 7. Then 1 day to put the Defender back together… Click image to enlarge 8. Time to DIY… X1 Day Cleaning (Degrease, Salt Remover, Brush / Detergent, Power Wash). X14 Days Drying out whilst on Holiday! (3-4 minimum in good weather). X1 Day Stripping Defender (Fuel Tank, Wheels, Wheel Arches, Bumper, Lights, Rear & Side Steps). X1 Day fe-123 (Surface Rust Treatment / mainly Running Gear). X1 Day 3128 (Cavities, Bulkhead, Doors, Chassis). X1 Day 4941 (3 Coats). X1 Day to get back on road. X6 Days (DIY) work time. 9. Cost… £300 (everything, Dinitrol, Schutz Gun, Gloves, 2 Spray Over Suits, Masking Tape…) 10. Verdict… I’ve used Waxoyl before on a new 300tdi 90 and a restoration project TVR, although it did the job well, Dinitrol is superior. I have sprayed before, and you can just tell how this applies, if the preparation is right. The 4941 is the star of the show here, so would definitely use it again, although hopefully not for a while! Great thread…thanks, this pointed me in the right direction… but be careful what you start, I would say this is not a weekend job for the average Def’DIYer…even with the right kit. A ‘professional’ route is clearly an option, but avoid a quick ‘drive in’ unproven service... If you go down the DIY route, plan well, find the time, and it will be well worth it. Update Information... 11. Bonnet... 3125 applied within 'cavity'... Click image to enlarge 4941 top coats...X3... Click image to enlarge 12. Bulkhead / Doors... 3125 within cavities... Click image to enlarge The Dinitrol has now been applied for over a year and remains visually 'as new'. With a 'defused' power wash, there is no apparent deterioration in the coverage, no peeling or coming away, only slight markings on axle jacking points. Excellent Product... SKIP
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html Last edited by X4SKP on 9th Nov 2015 4:19pm. Edited 4 times in total |
||
|
17th Sep 2014 10:10pm |
|
| big steve Member Since: 24 Dec 2009 Location: hertfordshire Posts: 2456 
|
i have 25 ltrs of tec til which a aircraft grade wax oil any one know of it or is it any good
steve 2015 2.2 tdci hardtop xs 3.2 conversion DONE 238bhp and 707nm torque and thats just the start ;-P hybrid turbo in build -done ready to fit ashcroft atb in transfer box 6 speed auto in build |
||
|
18th Sep 2014 2:02am |
|
| X4SKP Member Since: 29 Nov 2013 Location: Berkshire Posts: 2295
|
Hello big steve
I looked at Tectyl, which looks to be ok, but decided on Dinitrol. The second video is not in English, but gives a good idea of the overall process... I would still wear a mask though  SKIP
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html |
||
|
18th Sep 2014 10:13am |
|
| MartinK Member Since: 02 Mar 2011 Location: Silverdale (Lancashire/Cumbria Border) Posts: 2665 
|
SKIP - lovely write-up - thanks for posting
Defender "Puma" 2.4 110 County Utility (possibly the last of the 2.4's) |
||
|
18th Sep 2014 10:28am |
|
| big steve Member Since: 24 Dec 2009 Location: hertfordshire Posts: 2456
|
Any main reasons for not using tectyl ?
The aviation stuff I have isn't cheap atall at over 1k for 25ltrs Steve 2015 2.2 tdci hardtop xs 3.2 conversion DONE 238bhp and 707nm torque and thats just the start ;-P hybrid turbo in build -done ready to fit ashcroft atb in transfer box 6 speed auto in build |
||
|
18th Sep 2014 3:04pm |
|
| Knappster Member Since: 30 Aug 2014 Location: Stroud, Gloucestershire Posts: 43 
|
Excellent write-up!
Rich. |
||
|
18th Sep 2014 3:05pm |
|
| X4SKP Member Since: 29 Nov 2013 Location: Berkshire Posts: 2295
|
Hi big steve... >£40 / Ltr ...use it, or sell it and buy Dinitrol, which is around 25% of that price.
Dinitrol RC 900 approx' £13.50 / Can Dinitrol ML approx' 11.50 / Ltr Dinitrol 3125 approx'£12.50 / Ltr Dinitrol 4941 approx' £11.00 / Ltr (All prices shown are inclusive of VAT, but exclude any discounts applied by negotiation... or advantages obtained by making a Trade Purchase ) SKIP
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html |
||
|
18th Sep 2014 3:29pm |
|
|
|
| All times are GMT |
< Previous Topic | Next Topic > |
Posting Rules
|
Site Copyright © 2006-2024 Futuranet Ltd & Martin Lewis
