 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Another output shaft..... |
 
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17475   
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I'm surprised that nobody's suggested or tried simply welding the two parts together. Once the female part is bolted to the back of the gearbox, the male part could be inserted and welded solid. You'd have to be careful not to cook the seal, and getting it off in the futurewould mean cutting, but it might last longer.
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30th Jul 2018 9:00pm |
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| Julie Member Since: 07 Oct 2017 Location: Nantes Posts: 502  
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When my spline failed the workshop suggested a weld. As an emergency fix.
Not to be a long term solution in their eyes. P.S. These guys were techniciens for harvest machines (where this sort of spline is quite common). |
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30th Jul 2018 9:48pm |
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| MK Member Since: 28 Aug 2008 Location: Santiago Posts: 2432  
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Who knows if there is a relationship between failure and remap..... Puma 110" SW
............................................................. Earth first. Other planets later |
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30th Jul 2018 11:16pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17475
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There doesn't seem to be.
Un-mapped vehicle fail just as frequently as mapped ones. |
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31st Jul 2018 8:07am |
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| PAT303 Member Since: 25 Feb 2013 Location: Australia Posts: 125  
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I'm changing mine for the third time at 180,000km's.I think there is more to it personally,all of mine have worn the last 1'' of spline suggesting the shaft walked out of the cup before failing.I'm going to fill my next one with moly grease and seal the coupling with high temp silicon and shrink wrap the whole lot.I really think it needs a circlip to hold it together.
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31st Jul 2018 10:53am |
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| ian series 1 Member Since: 17 Nov 2014 Location: south Posts: 3127 
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That’s what usually happens, the large clip is obviously not strong enough to keep the shaft in place,
On every one I have done, the shaft is never fully home, and the wear is only on the outer part of the cup. I personally think a stronger clip might just solve the issue, then it would be transferring power through the whole unit, rather than half of it! They seem to be sufficiently strong enough to start with, but over time must weaken enough to eventually let go. 80" 80" 86" 88" 90" Wanted, Forward Control Anything considered. |
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31st Jul 2018 12:13pm |
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| PAT303 Member Since: 25 Feb 2013 Location: Australia Posts: 125
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I'm going to put an O ring under the clip on my next one to hold it out,willing to try anything now.
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31st Jul 2018 11:19pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17475
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That is interesting. Another possibility would be to drill and tap two diametrically-opposite holes the cup, aligned with the groove for the ring, and fit two retaining screws, lockwired in place. I suppose some kind of thrust bearing fitted in the input gear bearing carrier in the transfer box would have the same effect. |
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1st Aug 2018 7:47am |
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| ian series 1 Member Since: 17 Nov 2014 Location: south Posts: 3127
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This was the last one I removed, it’s the same one that is in the beginning of this thread.
You can clearly see how the shaft had popped out, and only part of the shaft has worn away, When the cup and shaft are fully home there is absolutely no lateral movement, Pull the inner shaft away from the cup about half way, and you can get a small amount of side to side movement, this is what I personally think happens, add in some dust, and fretting, the splines simply can’t take the torque anymore. If I ever do mine again, I would be inclined to run a weld around the top and bottom?  Click image to enlarge 80" 80" 86" 88" 90" Wanted, Forward Control Anything considered. |
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1st Aug 2018 8:30am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17475
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When I last inspected and greased mine, some three years and 80k miles ago, I had significant difficulty getting the joint apart and it required some major slide hammer action.
I wonder if some of these fail because they are improperly assembled and simply not fully inserted. |
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1st Aug 2018 9:03am |
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| ian series 1 Member Since: 17 Nov 2014 Location: south Posts: 3127
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That’s what I personally think the problem is?
When assembling a new one, as you have noticed, once the cup and shaft are together they are almost impossible to get apart again. Nearly all the ones i have done, the shafts are always half out, and the plastic cover is just a chewed up mess! if you push them back in to place the clip doesn’t hold. They must weaken with age? 80" 80" 86" 88" 90" Wanted, Forward Control Anything considered. |
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1st Aug 2018 9:24am |
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| DSC-off Member Since: 16 Oct 2014 Location: North East Posts: 1432 
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Very interesting theory Ian.
I'm wondering if the corrosion / powdery rust in the splines allows enough movement to 'work' the ring and pull the joint apart. It also got me thinking about the housing in the Ashcroft kit, would that keep the shaft in the cup? It appears to tighten on the cup, not actually holding the shaft in place, just intended as a seal. If there is only a small end float clearance to the shaft then it would serve a double purpose if the joint did come apart. I suppose it depends on how much clearance there is. Click image to enlarge |
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1st Aug 2018 6:54pm |
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| ian series 1 Member Since: 17 Nov 2014 Location: south Posts: 3127
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Thanks for posting some pictures of the Ashcroft one,
I’ve only ever re fitted genuine shafts, so never seen the Ashcroft offering 
I’ve got an old coupling under my bench, and I am going to try a few modifications of my own over the next day or so.  80" 80" 86" 88" 90"
Wanted, Forward Control Anything considered. |
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1st Aug 2018 9:30pm |
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| DSC-off Member Since: 16 Oct 2014 Location: North East Posts: 1432
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There's more pictures on the Ashcroft website and an article fron LRO about fitting it.
https://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/m...t-kit.html https://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/f...?769007971 It looks properly sealed with 4 o rings to keep the oil in. |
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1st Aug 2018 10:02pm |
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