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| arran jones Member Since: 21 Nov 2016 Location: south west Posts: 728  
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Also would the acf-50 wash off if I pressure wash my car or would it not affect it??
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6th Dec 2016 9:49am |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5013
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Arran, the use of ACF-50 and possible places for it,s application are on the first page (any brackets etc, engine heat is not a problem). The aerosol is better as mentioned as it sprays under the cappings with decent pressure. The pump bottles are next to useless.
ACF-50 was designed to prevent electrolysis in aluminium planes where different metals came into contact. Yes if you have the jet nozzle near enough it will take off the ACF-50. Treat a couple of times a year but have a look on the first page of this thread it should explain your questions  |
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7th Dec 2016 9:01pm |
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| arran jones Member Since: 21 Nov 2016 Location: south west Posts: 728
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Cool,
Thanks very much, I have ordered 2 spray bottles and hopefully they should arrive tomorrow Thanks a lot Aj |
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7th Dec 2016 9:37pm |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5013
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Pleasure Chris. I now have some Yorkshire wood chip to add to the Irish peat, French sand, Cornish clay, Highland manure and Devon red mud that comes out of everyone's chassis to help my tatties grow  |
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10th Dec 2016 8:28am |
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| arran jones Member Since: 21 Nov 2016 Location: south west Posts: 728
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Hello again,
Does this ACF-50 stop rust aswell or just corrosion????? Many thanks AJones |
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14th Dec 2016 5:57pm |
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| arran jones Member Since: 21 Nov 2016 Location: south west Posts: 728
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Hello again,
Does this ACF-50 stop rust aswell or just corrosion????? Many thanks AJones |
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14th Dec 2016 5:58pm |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5013
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Arran I will let ACF-50 answer that one if you Google it. Have a look on their website to understand their meaning of "stop" and actually how ACF-50 works. It kind of lifts and seperates affected areas of rust on metal and corrosion of alloys. It explains the active process in far more detail than I can here
Here you go, the explanation and even a video from ACF-50
http://www.acf-50.co.uk/acf-50.htm |
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15th Dec 2016 3:56pm |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5013
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With the next Defender due in on the 2nd Jan I finally have my lift free to do my own car a 1977 SAAB 96. Having peeled the original underseal off the floor pan it is largely rust free but for a few small bits of surface rust. I will be using Dinitrol Corroheat for those interested which is a fairly new product that is totally clear and goes hard (although it can chip). I have used this on other classic cars that are mint underneath including 20 year old rust free Supra imports.
The thinking behind this is that you can keep an eye on what is happening underneath and it only really works for Defenders that are only used on the road and are near new/mint but just thought I would let you know about it. The usual Dinitrol underbody is more suited to Defenders HOWEVER I would avoid getting it plastered on thick as some do as you really need to check what is happening and at some point it will have to come off again. Defender chassis metal is not primed properly from new and they rot from behind the porous paint. However methodically you treat existing rust you will not be able to stop all of it 100%, you would need to take the chassis off, blast it and galvanise it for that. Some companies even offer a rock coating just sealing in the rust for good  Also once compromised thick coatings just hold water in constantly which rots metal far quicker than if there was no protection at all. Easy for someone to simply plaster the underside but it,s really not great long term. It,s far better to keep the coating light and check on the metal every four years or so depending on vehicle use!
HAPPY NEW YEAR ALL Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated  |
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31st Dec 2016 10:46am |
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| justinp Member Since: 24 Jun 2016 Location: Cambridge Posts: 167
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Hi Chaps,
The rear crossmember on my 2012 110 DC is looking like it needs some TLC. Having scanned this thread, I believe the products I need are ACF-50 and then Dinitrol 4941. Will a single aerosol can of each be sufficient to do my cross member? Before applying he ACF-50, can I wet and dry the cross member to flatten off any corrosion? Can Dinitrol 4941 be sprayed directly over ACF-50, or do I need a primer? Many thanks - Justin |
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8th Jan 2017 5:47pm |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5013
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You have scanned and misread the advice Justin. ACF-50 is great for the outside of your crossmember but not if you put Dinitrol 4941 on it. It won,t go hard properly the two do not mix, one is petroleum based the other epoxy based so the Dinitrol won,t set. I would not put 4941 on the rear crossmember. Most just treat with ACF-50 otherwise you need to treat as any other rusty metal e.g. Rub back rust, treat rust, prime and top coat. Many paint products suitable for this...
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9th Jan 2017 9:35pm |
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| justinp Member Since: 24 Jun 2016 Location: Cambridge Posts: 167
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Hi Zagata, thanks for you're reply. Will KURUST, a rattle can of primer & satin black top coat from halfords do the trick, or should I go for something a more exotic?
(I've fully read the thread to page 10/42, and I'm still none the wiser) |
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9th Jan 2017 10:28pm |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5013
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Hi Justin. Yes that will do a job, just make sure you take off as much rust as possible before treatment.
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10th Jan 2017 6:21pm |
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| Fat Cog Member Since: 19 Mar 2012 Location: Oxfordshire & Devon Posts: 502 
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Another great rust prevention intervention job by Chris 'Zagato' on my lovely LR...thanks for all your efforts, despite your slipped disc...hope you're feeling better!!! Since 1973...S1, Air Portable's, Defender's, but only my Wolf TUL HS GS remains
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19th Jan 2017 11:13pm |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5013
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Many thanks Waddy
This is one of the few decent pictures of yours that came out OK. This is after the clean, rust rubbed back and treated and a thin layer of ML applied BEFORE the Underbody 4941 went on.
Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated |
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20th Jan 2017 5:19pm |
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