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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5012  
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Apart from Waxoyl, I have not used the rust converting product you mention but someone else may have
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15th Aug 2016 1:39pm |
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| Essexlandy Member Since: 28 Mar 2016 Location: Essex Posts: 8 
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Thanks for reply,
I was going to then under body seal the wheel arches more for sound deading then anything else. You do great work BYT I've used the Flag stuff on some other items and it seems really good, stops rust and leaves a nice matt black coating. |
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15th Aug 2016 1:58pm |
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| Leaky 110 Member Since: 11 Jul 2016 Location: Glasgow Posts: 62  
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Finally finished rust converting today, trying to get a run of dry warm days in Scotland sometimes feels like an impossible task.
Got funny looks when I was buying coveralls and a respirator for tomorrow's cavity waxing. The guy behind the counter was convinced I was doing a "breaking bad" 😄  Click image to enlarge |
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17th Aug 2016 11:04am |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5012
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 Sorry to keep banging on Leaky but axles stands on Tarmac which could break through at anytime without further support and on a slight slope by the looks of it There is no way I would risk getting under that Dropping one end back onto it,s wheels would be so much safer and then swap ends, you would still have plenty of room underneath to work. Chop up a new 7" fence post, that will provide enough chocks on level ground with your axle stands to make the job safe...
Good luck with the job, rain is on it,s way  |
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17th Aug 2016 2:58pm |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5012
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I have never put any pictures in my gallery before but now have a small selection of vehicles I have worked on. I wish I had taken pictures of all the one,s I have done but will do so in future...
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20th Aug 2016 8:20am |
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| Baz8046 Member Since: 08 Feb 2016 Location: Chatham Posts: 81 
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Hi Chris,
Thanks for all your help getting mine sorted out, I know it wasn't an easy job with all the cleaning. If anyone is thinking of having this work done I would strongly recommend Chris. Excellent quality of work and attention to detail. You can do this yourself but it is a horrible messy job. Thanks again Chris, top man Defender Td5 Commercial 2002
Range Rover L322 TDV8 Westminster 2012 Discovery 4 SDV6 Landmark 2016 |
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21st Aug 2016 8:22am |
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| Wism Member Since: 27 Jun 2016 Location: Surrey, UK Posts: 21
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I can only recommend Chris. He does a great thorough job and is always willing to help where needed. I will definitely be returning when needed. Thanks Chris
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21st Aug 2016 8:44am |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5012
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Many thanks fella,s...
Next three in... Three sheds of grey! No far from sheds...
Dog on patrol, he lives next to them...
Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated  |
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21st Aug 2016 1:00pm |
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| ADBS65 Member Since: 31 Aug 2015 Location: Wolverhampton Posts: 15 
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Today was POR15 painting day! I have quite spent some time (weeks on and off) removing rust scale, using a grinder with a wire brush, power file, flap sander, hammer and chisel, then welding plates as necessary to the chassis to ensure structural integrity, I was ready to go. I had purchased the Marine Clean and Metal Prep and had applied both as per the instructions earlier in the week. Having watched a number of "instructional" YouTube videos I made sure I was fully covered up,this included Marigold washing up gloves with latex gloves underneath, rubber bands to keep the Marigolds over my overall cuffs, eye protection, Vaseline on any parts I couldn't cover, ears, cheeks etc. and wore a respirator as this stuff isn't good for your lungs!
Handy trick here, don't open the POR, just drill 2 holes in the lid so it will pour and reseal the holes with tape when your done. Lasts longer apparently. I started with the parts I had removed, inc fuel tank shield bottom, floor supports, spring cups and some brackets. I then painted both chassis rails underneath and on both faces, finishing with the top of the rail. I will be doing the front of the chassis, from the bulkhead forward at a later date. To paint all this took around 4 hours, including a second coat on parts I won't be able to access once reassembled. I had ordered the 946ml tin which wasn't quite enough for a second coat all over, that said first impressions are that a single coat will be enough. I have purchased some more POR to do the front of the chassis, so I will give it a second coat on high impact areas just to be certain. I will be giving the outer chassis faces a quick coat of stone chip or rattle can, just to minimise the UV issues, although I don't think we get enough sun here for it to be a problem. I binned the paint brushes and only got two blobs of POR on my skin where it leeched through my overalls. I did try to get it off but no chance, so I will wear this until it comes off over time. Once I have reassembled the Landy I will use Dinitrol on the inside of the chassis and bulkhead, given that Landys can and do rust inside out as well 
Only time will tell if this POR is going to be any good, but other than my time, it is a relatively cost effective method of treating a rusty chassis. Not of course in the same league as the full Dinitrol treatment but within my budget 😉 I will keep you updated and thank you for your advice. Regards Andy *Pictures in my gallery |
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21st Aug 2016 7:23pm |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5012
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The only thing with POR-15 is that once it is on, it's on for good and can hide any rotting going on underneath. OK on a brand new chassis where the rust on the weld seams for instance is treated but I,m afraid it's near impossible to correct all the rust on an older chassis depending on how bad it is... on classic cars the idea is to treat lightly so you can always keep an eye on what is going on underneath, it,s the reason Bilt Hamber developed a clear product followed soon after by Dinitrol who brought out High Perfomance clear wax and Corroheat Clear!
I found metal prep and marine clean to be next to useless when I tested them when rebuilding my Series II. You really have to take the rust back to almost bare metal and apply a rust convertor with a high percentage of acid. We are up against modern environmental American regs with Marine Clean, Metal Prep etc
Dinitrol converust 900 is pricey at £15 per Aerosol and is lethal breathing it in, masks don,t seem to stop the acid fumes, I hack up phlegm every morning from the damage it has and does do to my lungs BUT it,s bloody good stuff especially compared to the weaker water based products already mentioned. The cavity Dinitrol ML stuff in an earlier post is also just a coating, the rust inhibitor as it is described means it just blocks oxygen, and only covers rust. It doesn,t actually do anything to convert or stop the rust. You really need to get the Conversust in first or ACF-50 etc then put ML on or better use the Cavity Wax 3125 as usual... These cheap Black and Decker belt sanders are great for getting the rust off in restricted areas... http://www.argos.co.uk/static/Product/part...0wodlaULXQ
And a knotted wire brush grinder for larger surface areas.... I use a Makita one...
I have found a chisel also very handy... Ordinary wire brushes are next to useless apart from getting the top layer of looser rust off... The above gadgets can be bought for use on a professional compressor of course... Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated |
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21st Aug 2016 8:07pm |
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| Leaky 110 Member Since: 11 Jul 2016 Location: Glasgow Posts: 62
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I'll second the dinitrol rust converter being horrid stuff, I have a top quality respirator and it still got me.
Finally finished today after being hostage to the weather for 2 weeks. Really pleased with the result, but with the time and effort I've put in I totally agree with the value in having someone like Zagato do it to save the stress. Click image to enlarge |
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30th Aug 2016 2:06pm |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5012
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The acid rust convertor goes straight through my mask as well, evil stuff but that is what makes it so good. It lingers in the air and can get in your eyes as well
I wear a full face mask when I use it now... It makes a good paint stripper also
Glad you got yours done OK Leaky, looks a thorough job, don,t forget to seal the windows and treat the bodies rust areas with ACF-50. I have just had a 2015, 2012 & 2008 plate in and you can see the deterioration of the cappings which are bare metal underneath, windscreen frame, rivets, bumpers, bulkhead, hinges etc etc let alone the chassis underneath. Catching them early saves a lot of hassle later on with body work repairs let alone loss of value to the vehicle... |
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3rd Sep 2016 10:05am |
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| Leaky 110 Member Since: 11 Jul 2016 Location: Glasgow Posts: 62
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The acf 50 is on order, a previous owner has done a lot of sealing but sadly it's starting to flake and disintegrate now. Only got a few tiny bits to sort now, I noticed a few wee paint bubbles underneath the body capping. Oh no!
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3rd Sep 2016 10:40am |
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| Essexlandy Member Since: 28 Mar 2016 Location: Essex Posts: 8
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I did the underside of mine the other day with the Flag Rust converter.
Was really easy to put on. I used a compressor with spray gun and also a parrafin/wash gun. Not messy like waxoyl. and really easy to clean up as its water based. I'll take some pictures of it. Going to do the inside of bulkhead and doors. |
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3rd Sep 2016 4:33pm |
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