Home > My Defender > Overland 110 Build from the Ground Up! |
|
|
Pam W Member Since: 25 Oct 2011 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 1169 |
Thanks for the plug T1G!
The best place to look for our 100" V8 Auto Here http://www.yorkshireoffroadclub.net/forum/...&t=194 - although this only covers the change from Rover V8 to LS1 - we did the 110 to 100 several years before that and havent got a Webpage for that. If you want any info re. the chassis drop davew a PM a and he will talk you through it. My 90 rebuild here - http://www.yorkshireoffroadclub.net/forum/...&t=678 and expedition modifications here http://www.landytravels.com Re. Compressor and air tank - we put those behind the passenger seat on my 90, on top of the seat box. Should be a pic somewhere on the Landy travels blog. Re. Water tanks. We did consider a single built in water tank but with limited space in the 90 we decided on a more 'flexible' system of separate plastic 10l containers, which could be put into odd spaces etc. in practice we found this was a really good idea, but not just re. space. It was more that one big water tank is like putting 'all your eggs in one basket'. The main issue we had with water was drinkability - some of the water we got in Austalia was technically fit for comsumption but it was quite nasty taste wise or, especially in the west, quite salty. So we could fill a single container with it for washing etc, and save better water we'd got elsewhere for drinking and not waste it on washing. Nothing worse than trying to quench your thirst on a long gorge walk in 30 degree heat when you only have salty water to drink. (Buying bottled water to have in the fridge for drinking was also a good habit to get into!!) We were able to swap over and refill the individual water containers without the risk of contaminating the whole lot with a bad batch. There is also the issue of leaks - if 1 container leaks and that's all you have, you are stuffed, whereas having separate ones you are proofed against losing all your water ! Anyway, just something to consider. Our blog - http://landytravels.com/ Yorkshire Off Road Club - http://www.yorkshireoffroadclub.net |
||
17th Jan 2015 12:43pm |
|
Defender_Td5 Member Since: 20 Jul 2009 Location: Devon/Australia Posts: 69 |
As with all things generally relating to Defenders, the list has grown a bit now! Here is an update of the upcoming works:
- Finally wire up the Light Force 170 roof rack spot lamps - Wire up the two rear LED flood lamps - Fit two new Tdci XS Heated front seats and wire these up - Fit new XS seat covers purchased for the Tdci Second Row Seats to match the front. - Remove all wheels and tyres - wheels to be repainted in satin black and the BFG KM2's taken off and replaced by 265 75 16 General Grabber AT2's. I will keep the BFG KM2s for muddy adventures. - Remove and service the front double de-cardan propeller shaft. - Remove both rock sliders, fit “halfmoon” jacking points fwd and aft of both rock sliders – Sized for the Land Rover Hi-Lift jacking adaptor. - Both rock sliders to be galvanised and then re-powder coated. - Remove front and rear anti roll bars - blast and powder coat both. - Remove radiator top surround, blast and re-galvanise. - Remove radiator top mounts x 2 – blast and galvanise. - Remove fuel filter bracket – blast and galvanise. - Remove snorkel and pre-filter steel top, blast and powder coat both. - Remove cracked O/S wing, strip off outer wing skin and wheel arch – replace and have repainted in Stornoway Grey – Paint Code LRC 907 I think that should keep me busy for a week! Rob Defender 300Tdi 110 Utility Wagon ROW Overland Series 1 86" |
||
19th Jan 2015 3:44am |
|
Darcy Fairfax Member Since: 05 Oct 2014 Location: London Posts: 721 |
Massive thumbs ups
|
||
19th Jan 2015 8:42am |
|
Ronin Member Since: 09 Aug 2012 Location: Kent Posts: 213 |
Thank you very much Grenadier and Rob - they're exactly what I am looking for.
Cheers, Joel |
||
19th Jan 2015 9:03am |
|
GSLRO Member Since: 13 May 2012 Location: Tyne and Wear Posts: 499 |
Such an inspirational read, well done pity Land Rover don't employ a few people like yourself. Adventure isn't paved!
|
||
19th Jan 2015 7:17pm |
|
shaggydog Member Since: 12 Aug 2012 Location: Kent Posts: 3347 |
I have a feeling in the next few years there will be quite an upsurge in people wanting land rovers rebuilt as the supply of shiny new ones to do drys up. Skills will be in demand! Running Restoration Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/post323197.html#323197 Self confessed mileage hunter |
||
19th Jan 2015 8:09pm |
|
Welkman Member Since: 02 Nov 2014 Location: Essex colchester Posts: 326 |
Come on rob a few more updates then it will be ready for me to borrow when I pop out to Australia
James |
||
3rd Feb 2015 11:17am |
|
Defender_Td5 Member Since: 20 Jul 2009 Location: Devon/Australia Posts: 69 |
Back in the country end of next week....I have the following week off for Land Rover based build stuff. I'll post up an update soon...
Rob Defender 300Tdi 110 Utility Wagon ROW Overland Series 1 86" |
||
3rd Feb 2015 11:21am |
|
Defender_Td5 Member Since: 20 Jul 2009 Location: Devon/Australia Posts: 69 |
Hi All!
Finally an update! Sorry it took so long... So, first on the list was the change out the front seats for some recently purchased Puma XS Heated ones, these where bought over from the UK and had only done delivery miles before being removed for an upgrade by the previous owner: "Old" Outlast Covered Standard Tdi Seats: Click image to enlarge New Tdci Seats all fitted: Click image to enlarge I got lucky with an eBay purchase of some second row XS Puma covers to match the fronts, I have now fitted these thanks to an excellent guide on this forum: Click image to enlarge Front and Rear Anti Roll Bars Blasted back to bare metal: Click image to enlarge Back from the Powdercoaters (satin black in place of the original bright orange), I also took the opportunity to have the mounts blasted and galvanized at the same time: Click image to enlarge Both rock sliders were removed and had jacking points installed, this involved taking out a "half-moon" shape and welding in some 4mm tube that was cut to fit: Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Both were then blasted: Click image to enlarge And galvanized: Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge I then tried them out on the Defender, but decided I preferred them powdercoated as they were originally, so I am having these done as well: Click image to enlarge The front propeller shaft came back from reconditioning, the splines were excessively worn, which has me a bit perplexed as the vehicle has only done 14,000 miles and I had been greasing both front a rear prop-shafts regularly. As a matter of course they also replaced all three UJ's and rebuilt the center cardon joint as well. Click image to enlarge All five Blindo wheels were reconditioned as they had gotten pretty scratched up by offroading, the BFG KM2's were removed and replaced with some General Grabber AT2's in 265 75 R16 size, I'll keep the KM2's and mount them on a set of Wolf rims that I have purchased. It's amazing the difference between the KM2's and the AT2's on the road in terms of noise reduction and steering vibration. Click image to enlarge I also removed the front and middle head-linings and tidied up the wiring with some self adhesive clips: Click image to enlarge That's where I am currently, a bit more to follow in a few weeks. Here is my other toy when it was in for a full dyno tune, it's a KTM 990 Adventure. Click image to enlarge Cheers all. Rob Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated Defender 300Tdi 110 Utility Wagon ROW Overland Series 1 86" |
||
9th Apr 2015 3:56am |
|
Welkman Member Since: 02 Nov 2014 Location: Essex colchester Posts: 326 |
Nice welding rob. Are the jacking points for the high lift? Just to secure the lifting point? Also do you think I could get a 990 smt past Becky ?
|
||
9th Apr 2015 6:23pm |
|
Defender_Td5 Member Since: 20 Jul 2009 Location: Devon/Australia Posts: 69 |
Yeah, they are for a Hi-Lift, or rather a Hi-Lift with the Land Rover tube type jacking adapter fitted on to it that you can buy. This allows you to use the Hi-Lift in the normal jacking points in each of the vehicles chassis dumb-irons and in the circular jacking point holes in the rear cross-member.
I had always wanted some proper jacking points on the sills and having used the Hi-Lift without a "retainer" as such, it just wasn't a pleasant experience, now at least I have the half circles to stop the jack from moving about or worse sliding out. I don't know about an SMT, why not just get an Adventure? Much better looking bikes.... Cheers Rob Defender 300Tdi 110 Utility Wagon ROW Overland Series 1 86" |
||
9th Apr 2015 10:14pm |
|
Brewstop Member Since: 28 Oct 2012 Location: South Oxfordshire Posts: 313 |
This thread is comprehensive land rover porn for me - Thank you! Sandy
|
||
4th May 2015 7:42am |
|
Supacat Member Since: 16 Oct 2012 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 11018 |
Looking good
How did you decide where to place the hi lift cut-outs in the rock sliders? |
||
4th May 2015 9:34am |
|
Defender_Td5 Member Since: 20 Jul 2009 Location: Devon/Australia Posts: 69 |
haha! Thank you! More to follow..... Defender 300Tdi 110 Utility Wagon ROW Overland Series 1 86" |
||
23rd May 2015 9:13am |
|
|
All times are GMT |
< Previous Topic | Next Topic > |
Posting Rules
|
Site Copyright © 2006-2024 Futuranet Ltd & Martin Lewis