 | Home > My Defender > Overland 110 Build from the Ground Up! |
 
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| Defender_Td5 Member Since: 20 Jul 2009 Location: Devon/Australia Posts: 69  
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Well, I haven't been on here for a while..but that means the work hasn't stopped on the Defender! The following has been completed since the last update, it was a bit of a wiring marathon to say the least, but I am pretty happy with the way it all turned out.
- Wire in the four Lightforce 170 Lamps along the roof rack (Two have spot lamp filters and two have half spot/half flood filters) - Wire in the two rear LED flood lights - Wire in the 12V outlet in the wing top storage container - Wire in my additional fuse box and two 100amp circuit breakers - Add a 250 amp positive bus bar - Add a 150 amp negative bus bar - Replace the 40amp mega fuse for the ARB compressor with a 40amp circuit breaker and re-build the ARB loom. In additional to the above, the following was also carried out at this time: - Powdercoat galvanised rock sliders, add "grip" tape to the top and the tree slider bar - Carry out wastegate pick up mod to VNT Turbo - Re-trim the 2nd row PUMA seats with XS half leather covers - Fit front canvas seat protector covers The finished battery box, showing the new 12 blade Bluesea fuse box, which is protected by a 100amp breaker. The relay box on the left is for the 4 x 170 Lightforce Spot Lamps. [URL=]  Click image to enlarge[/URL] Close up of the relay box and the fuse box. All wiring is protected in conduit, all connections soldered and heat shrink applied: [URL=] Click image to enlarge[/URL] The bus bar is a 250amp Bluesea item, it feeds the two 100amp breakers and the ARB Compressor. This bus bar is fed by the domestic battery: [URL=] Click image to enlarge[/URL] Fusebox protected feed for the rear LED flood lamps, this loom was run along the RH chassis leg and then up through the rear tub: [URL=] Click image to enlarge[/URL] Interior trim panel removed, wires secured and run up the inside of the rear corner: [URL=] Click image to enlarge[/URL] [URL=] Click image to enlarge[/URL] [URL=] Click image to enlarge[/URL] 16mm2 feed fed from the 100amp circuit breaker in the battery compartment. This is a bit of future proofing for an additional fuse box and/or a fridge, again this was run along the chassis rail and protected in conduit: [URL=] Click image to enlarge[/URL] 40amp circuit breaker (for ARB Compressor) located in the drivers under-seat storage box, this is fed from the 250amp bus bar in the main battery box: [URL=] Click image to enlarge[/URL] Re-built ARB compressor loom: [URL=] Click image to enlarge[/URL] Close up of improved earths: [URL=] Click image to enlarge[/URL] In this picture its worth mentioning the relays mounted at the rear are for the heated screen timer circuit: [URL=] Click image to enlarge[/URL] [URL=] Click image to enlarge[/URL] Additional looms run to and from the battery box: [URL=] Click image to enlarge[/URL] Additional loom runs across the bulkhead and up to the steering column (for rear LED flood lamps), then continues down and along the chassis rail to the tub. Also it runs off to the left to provide a positive and negative feed for the 12v power outlet: [URL=] Click image to enlarge[/URL] The rear LED Lamps are switched by this additional switch on the column: [URL=] Click image to enlarge[/URL] 12v Power outlet in wing-top mount: [URL=] Click image to enlarge[/URL] [URL=] Click image to enlarge[/URL] Front roof rack mounted Lightforce 170 switch (this has a main beam trigger): [URL=] Click image to enlarge[/URL] Positive and Negative feeds for the Lightforce lamps run up the LH external roll cage mount, loom is P-Clipped in place: [URL=] Click image to enlarge[/URL] [URL=] Click image to enlarge[/URL] Loom continues up the roll cage: [URL=] Click image to enlarge[/URL] The loom then heads through a heavy duty waterproof connector (should I wish to remove the roof rack in the future): [URL=] Click image to enlarge[/URL] And then runs out to the individual lamps: [URL=] Click image to enlarge[/URL] The loom is fully P-Clipped and conduit protected: [URL=] Click image to enlarge[/URL] Here is the control switch for the Bluesea 500amp split charge relay, the Carling "Fuel 1" switch is for the auxiliary fuel tank transfer pump: Click image to enlarge Newly powder-coated rock sliders after jacking point modification and galvanising: [URL=] Click image to enlarge[/URL] [URL=] Click image to enlarge[/URL] [URL=] Click image to enlarge[/URL] Grip tape was cut out around the tree slider mounting points using a socket as pattern: [URL=] Click image to enlarge[/URL] Second Row PUMA Seats recovered with XS Spec half leather trim: [URL=] Click image to enlarge[/URL] Front PUMA XS Seats protected with canvas covers: [URL=] Click image to enlarge[/URL] VNT Wastegate modification carried out as per recommendation on this forum, wasteagate is now controlled via the available pressure as measured at the inlet manifold rather than on the compressor side of the turbo: [URL=] Click image to enlarge[/URL] Hope you enjoyed this update, more to follow in the future! Regards Rob Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated  Defender 300Tdi 110 Utility Wagon ROW Overland
Series 1 86" |
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23rd May 2015 10:29am |
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| mk1collector Member Since: 17 Sep 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 6769  
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Excellent work
 do you have a part number for the column mounted aux light switch?
Cheers Ray Ray My build thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic17615.html |
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23rd May 2015 10:41am |
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| Defender_Td5 Member Since: 20 Jul 2009 Location: Devon/Australia Posts: 69
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Sure thing its "LAND ROVER TOMB RAIDER AUXILIARY LIGHT SWITCH STC 61821"
Cheers Rob Defender 300Tdi 110 Utility Wagon ROW Overland Series 1 86" |
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23rd May 2015 10:44am |
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| mk1collector Member Since: 17 Sep 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 6769
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Great thanks
keep the updates coming, I've read through the whole thing about five times now!!! Ray
My build thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic17615.html |
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23rd May 2015 10:48am |
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| Les Brock Member Since: 20 Mar 2012 Location: Stroud, Glos Posts: 151 
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Great build,
Could you please tell me who made the forward roof rack support onto the roll cage 
Regards Les |
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23rd May 2015 6:51pm |
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| GREENI Member Since: 22 Aug 2010 Location: staffs Posts: 10381
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It takes a lot of effort to build a truck to those standards, it takes more effort to photograph and type everything, for which I appreciate said efforts
Top man. |
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23rd May 2015 9:01pm |
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| Greggster Member Since: 16 May 2015 Location: Surrey Posts: 94 
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That is one hell of an awesome build
 |
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23rd May 2015 9:21pm |
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| shaggydog Member Since: 12 Aug 2012 Location: Kent Posts: 3347 
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As ever, spectacular work and fantastic write up
If I had the workshop space I would love to give my 110 the same treatment yours has (particularly the move to Australia bit) PLEASE keep the reports and updates coming as they are truly a delight to read! Running Restoration Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/post323197.html#323197 Self confessed mileage hunter  |
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23rd May 2015 10:09pm |
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| Defender_Td5 Member Since: 20 Jul 2009 Location: Devon/Australia Posts: 69
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Hi Les, The forward roof rack support was supplied by D44, I believe it was made by Protection and Performance though. Cheers Rob Defender 300Tdi 110 Utility Wagon ROW Overland Series 1 86" |
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24th May 2015 1:34am |
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| familymad Member Since: 13 Dec 2011 Location: Bucks Posts: 3481  
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Do you want to sell it yet ??! 1951 80" S1 2.0
1995 110 300TDI 1995 90 300TDI |
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12th Jul 2015 9:42pm |
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| Les Brock Member Since: 20 Mar 2012 Location: Stroud, Glos Posts: 151
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Hi Rob,
Many Thanks for the reply
Regards Les |
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13th Jul 2015 5:57pm |
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| Pickles Member Since: 26 May 2013 Location: Melbourne Posts: 3784  
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Defender TD5,...Brilliant work there, especially the VERY professional electrical stuff,.....are you an Auto Elec, if not, how did you learn all that stuff?
Good work, Pickles. |
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13th Jul 2015 10:02pm |
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| Defender_Td5 Member Since: 20 Jul 2009 Location: Devon/Australia Posts: 69
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Certainly not! I can build you one though..... Cheers Rob Defender 300Tdi 110 Utility Wagon ROW Overland Series 1 86" |
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16th Jul 2015 4:41am |
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| Defender_Td5 Member Since: 20 Jul 2009 Location: Devon/Australia Posts: 69
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Hi Pickles, I am not an Auto Electrician I am afraid; I guess the key to electrics is to be really meticulous and double check everything. I developed a wiring diagram for all the extras on the whole vehicle over a 24 month period, taking the time to re-draw and change bits a pieces as I became more familiar with what I wanted from the vehicle, the thing is with electrics is that you only really want to do it once! I specified most of the wiring gauges etc on the drawing and then had it all checked by an Auto Electrician, once we were both happy I then set about making all the looms and developed an obsession with heat-shrink and conduit as you can see! I'll update the thread soon as I have some more stuff to add. Cheers Rob Defender 300Tdi 110 Utility Wagon ROW Overland Series 1 86" |
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16th Jul 2015 4:52am |
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