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| Crawford Member Since: 23 Aug 2010 Location: Buckinghamshire Posts: 12   
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Thanks for taking the time to post, its given me the push to have a go myself.
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22nd Sep 2014 10:13am |
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| X4SKP Member Since: 29 Nov 2013 Location: Berkshire Posts: 2295 
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Hello Apisboy
I would say yes. ACF-50 is excellent but a different product entirely. Its ideal application is on a clean, dry surface, that is not too cold. This is not a 'must do' but ideal, it will creep into dirt and truly does have excellent penetration qualities. So your scenario (AFC-50 only) would ideally require a total clean first, probably with a power or steam cleaner, which will remove some (but not all) of a product like ACF-50...to then reapply it, It will 'chase out' moisture but this approach is not ideal, and ACF-50 over 'all' the underside of your Defender is not an inexpensive exercise. The ideal route is to use ACF-50 on poorly prepared / painted areas, (cappings for example) lapped joints, and fixing of dissimilar metals are also a good target. Then go down the Dinitrol (or similar product) route. Form this point on, depending on the use of your Defender, reapply (where you can) ACF-50 yearly or so. No real short cut route here, other than giving your vehicle to a professional service to apply a solution. SKIP https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html |
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28th Sep 2014 8:54am |
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| Apisboy Member Since: 11 Jun 2014 Location: Lincolnshire Posts: 22 
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Many thx for the reply. You make a great contribution to this forum.
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28th Sep 2014 9:43am |
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| X4SKP Member Since: 29 Nov 2013 Location: Berkshire Posts: 2295
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28th Sep 2014 11:02am |
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| rsms Member Since: 12 Jan 2013 Location: Home Posts: 36 
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Hello,
I want to protect the inner side of chassis on my 02 TD5 110. The outside was dinitroled from new and is in very good condition (some minor surface rust on exposed parts). Recently I had a look into the chassis with endoscopic camera and found this: 
What would be the best way to tackle this? Is cleaning (pressure washing with some special hose attachement), drying (my biggest concern!!!) and then dinitroling (Dinitrol ML?) right way? Am I missing something (rust converters maybe)? Thank you very much for your answers. Best regards! |
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2nd Oct 2014 9:48am |
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| X4SKP Member Since: 29 Nov 2013 Location: Berkshire Posts: 2295
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Hello rsms
...fantastic, CSI has come to Def2Net. 
Clean the Chassis by the best method available to you and allow it to dry out. I used a compressor with a cleaning gun attachment and 'lance' to get a Chlor-X salt remover solution in there, then a detergent, then flushed the whole Chassis. You can even temporally block the drain holes with grommets to 'fill and flush'. I would use a Rust Converter product initially, if you want to use Dinitrol throughout then the order is 1 RC 900 (Rust Converter) 2 ML (Penitrating Fluid) Not essential but a 'best practice' step before 3 3125 HS (Cavity Wax) Click image to enlarge Personally I would not rush (follow quickly) with the application of the ML after the initial treatment with RC 900, as it needs to do it's thing and may possibly be less effective if it is immediately covered with the later products the data sheets are available on the Dinitrol site... http://www.dinitrol.co.uk/Products/DataSheets.aspx Good luck... SKIP https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html |
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2nd Oct 2014 8:24pm |
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| Scotm Member Since: 28 Feb 2014 Location: Aberdeenshire Posts: 666  
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My 62 plate defender is just in getting some corrosion warranty work and thought it might be worth mentioning as another area to lookout for. Sorry no pictures but I forgot to take any before it went in!
The doors seal bottoms had rubbed through the paint on the metal angle behind the sill and started to rust. This was particularly bad at the 45 degree corner on the second row doors where the paint had started to bubble. My plan once it is back is to use clear 3M protection tape to prevent this happening again. |
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3rd Oct 2014 9:07am |
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| rsms Member Since: 12 Jan 2013 Location: Home Posts: 36
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Thanks for a lot of usefull info. So 1st step this weekend will be cleaning - should I attack from the front or rear? (hmm... after reading this one more time it sound so... weird
How do you guys drain all the water out to avoid possible water traps? Should I park on an incline (rear side up)? To speed up drying I was thinking about using hair drier (with some adapter stucked into chassis) as mid day temperatures for the next week will be arround 17C. Will inside of the chassis be dry after a week or so? So many questions... |
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3rd Oct 2014 11:39am |
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| Scotm Member Since: 28 Feb 2014 Location: Aberdeenshire Posts: 666
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I use wheel ramps to tilt the car to drain the chassis. I think you should find chassis holes in the area you have marked as a trap.
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3rd Oct 2014 3:49pm |
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| X4SKP Member Since: 29 Nov 2013 Location: Berkshire Posts: 2295
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Hi rsms
With the Defender on level ground there are 3 areas that the Chassis will drain to naturally, the front, middle and rear. Click image to enlarge The drain holes in the Chassis (in my opinion) are not ideally placed at the front and rear areas, the middle is ok. I would say 'attack' from all areas...
When you get to actually do this, you will see water flooding out in these areas (unless you plug it up) using ramps as Scotm said can help, but wont raise the vehicle enough to drain the middle section from the front or rear. I used an air line to bow out and in some way 'force' dry the Chassis, but I knew that it was going to be left in good weather for two weeks before the Dinitrol was applied. A hair dryer will just not be up to the job and don't be tempted to 'upgrade' to a heat gun. There is kit available to professional automotive services, under body protection and body shops, but this takes you down a non DIY route. If this is an outside job for you, and it's going to be cold, wet or both where you are, may be this is a job for next spring. Time to decide... SKIP https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html |
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4th Oct 2014 9:13am |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5013
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Nice to meet you Hope you get over to NZ OK. Sorry for the late reply I don't come on here much but need to as I should update my guide to include the internal bits to treat, under bonnet also etc and how to get to the bulkhead, tops of chassis rails etc. It's a great shame that I hear of so many "professionals" doing poor work e.g. just a quick splurge from the underside and not washing or treating the rust first before hiding it all under a coating of Dintrol or wax, or commonly washing the vehicle in the morning and plastering it with anti rust stuff in the afternoon sealing in all that moisture  Does it really take that much more effort and time to take pride in yourself and your work and do a proper job, NO, do the right thing by people and do a proper job. If it was me and couldn't do the work myself I would wait and watch the work being done...
As an aside I have seen a few 3 year old ones recently that may have had underside treatment from new but no treatment of the body cappings, bonnet hinges etc that are already seriously rusting. This in a way is maybe more important than the chassis - for instance if the hinges on the bulkhead rust through then thats a real problem and they are all pretty much rusting from new (bare metal between the join just sprayed over with body paint similar to the body cappings). Also rusting windscreen frames are common so if it was me I would order a spare window frame now whilst they are still available and obviously get your current one sealed by a window fitter as per the LR water ingress guide to stop the water just sitting under the window rubber - you can get holes in just 5 years!! Well that was cheery wasn't it Last edited by Zagato on 6th Oct 2014 6:40am. Edited 1 time in total |
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5th Oct 2014 5:14pm |
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| ZeDefender Member Since: 15 Sep 2011 Location: Munich Posts: 4731  
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Hi Zag - hope you are well and still loving the boat
Tell someone you love them today because life is short.
But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing... |
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5th Oct 2014 5:26pm |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5013
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Hello mate, good to see you are still around
Yes the sailing is going well this season with a trip down to Falmouth  |
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6th Oct 2014 6:43am |
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| Velo-felo Member Since: 18 Sep 2014 Location: Forest of Dean Posts: 19 
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Hi, I need to Waxoyl or similar my recently bought 55 plate 90. It's really clean and worth saving before it gets the dreaded rot! I'm not keen to use the companies advertising this service as it all looks rather rushed and slapped on probably over a not dry chassis.
Does any member offer this ( I think this thread mentioned it originally) or know of a really good company preferably not too far from Gloucerstershire area? Thanks. Steve |
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7th Oct 2014 8:59pm |
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