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| bear100 Member Since: 22 Mar 2010 Location: South Wales Posts: 1933   
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No help?
 2023 Defender L663 V8
2016 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 TDV8 (gone) 2010 110 XS Utility 2.4TDCI 2010 Range Rover Sport TDV8 (gone) 2007 Discovery HSE TDV6 (gone) 1993 110 csw 200 tdi (gone) 1994 90 HT 300 tdi (gone) 1994 discovery 300tdi (gone) 90 hybrid 3.5 v8 (gone) Range rover bobtail 3.5 v8 (gone) |
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10th Jan 2025 8:27am |
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| Marks Landy Member Since: 09 Feb 2015 Location: Cheshire Posts: 300  
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Is the Thermostat opening at the right temperature?
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10th Jan 2025 10:33am |
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| Johan_B Member Since: 20 Sep 2024 Location: Gothenburg Posts: 41  
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Don't think I have any help to offer.
I drained and filled my system 3 times this fall and followed the procedure in the WSM to the letter. You don't say but I will assume you did the same? I had no problems with airlocks. You say it is running hot, compared to what? Isn't 94-100 C perfectly acceptable for these engines? Could it be that a lower ambient air temperature can allow higher cooling temp before fan kicks in? Usual 84-87 C seems a bit low with a standard thermostat, doesn't it start to open at 87C and fully open at 92C? Could it be that the old one has been stuck open and you actually ran cold all the time? Idling in the cold will always lower the temperature in the blower significantly. There's a very low flow in the heater and not much energy coming from the engine. The hoses I will need to get out to the Land Rover to think through... As I said, not much help. I understand you are experiencing a change of some sort and to that there should be an explanation. |
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10th Jan 2025 11:16am |
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| piechipsandpeas Member Since: 12 May 2021 Location: Albany, Western Australia Posts: 219  
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Hi Bear
The top right hose is the inlet to the radiator. This will be warm but only get hot when the thermostat is open and hot coolant is then entering the radiator to be cooled, prior to this it will feel warm but not hot. The big hose below the radiator is the return hose from the radiator outlet and will feel cool/cold until the thermostat opens and hot coolant flows through the radiator, noting that both the radiator and lower hose will always have coolant in them, just that until the thermostat opens that coolant is stationary and not doing anything. Note that even when coolant is flowing through the radiator \ the bottom hose will always feel less hot than the top hose as the radiator will be doing the thing it is designed to do (ie reduce the temp of the coolant before returning it to the engine). So don't be surprised that yours is cold and feels like there is no flow, as that will be the case while the thermostat is closed, which at the time of year where you are is quite likely, especially when idling. The small hose to the expansion tank is there to allow the excess coolant to get back into the expansion tank as the coolant heats up and expands, so should feel hot. even if the other two aren't. Have you tried testing the thermostat when out of the engine to see if is functioning at the correct temp? Andy |
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10th Jan 2025 1:00pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20549
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Isn’t there two thermostats with a different temp reading by type?
I thought I have read that before. KEEP CALM AND Drill ON 🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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10th Jan 2025 1:34pm |
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| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 2092
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When I drain the coolant I do it from the oil cooler, I would do it from the fuel cooler but I don’t have one on my 2.2. In addition i remove the bottom radiator hose and drain a few more litres of coolant from there. That way I know I have fully drained the system and reduced likelihood of air locks On refilling . Before draining I also turn the heater control fully to hot and remove coolant cap.
I Follow the WSM process to refill the system and have never had airlocks. I suspect you have some air in the system, perhaps trapped in the heater matrix, so remove heater matrix hoses from heater control valve and pump some coolant into the heater matrix to see what comes out of the matrix return hose. You can modify a garden sprayer bottle to do this. Reconnect hoses, run engine and bleed any air. Ps worth checking heater valve is operating correctly before re fitting hoses. If this does not help you can drain again as I do, inc removing bottom rad hose, then see if that works getter for you in keeping air out of the system. |
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10th Jan 2025 3:12pm |
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| bear100 Member Since: 22 Mar 2010 Location: South Wales Posts: 1933
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thanks guys, working away at the moment and struggling to find time to mess with it.
as mentioned the heaters will run hot when on a run but as soon as you come to s atop at traffic etc the heaters will blow cold not cool but cold no heat at all, even on a run the heater will go cold and i need to stop and bleed the vent. what happened this Saturday, i went for a run it ran really well and stayed hot for much longer, when i got back and an hour or so later went to top up the coolant (loss from bleeding) the usual pressure in the tank, a little while later with the cap still off the top coolant hose was under vacuum (slightly squished with the pressure) to check i released the clamp and sure enough there was a vacuum (cap still off at this point) what would cause this? 2023 Defender L663 V8 2016 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 TDV8 (gone) 2010 110 XS Utility 2.4TDCI 2010 Range Rover Sport TDV8 (gone) 2007 Discovery HSE TDV6 (gone) 1993 110 csw 200 tdi (gone) 1994 90 HT 300 tdi (gone) 1994 discovery 300tdi (gone) 90 hybrid 3.5 v8 (gone) Range rover bobtail 3.5 v8 (gone) |
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20th Jan 2025 7:41am |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8136  
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why did the head need doing the first time and was this rectified.
the 2.4 is pretty simple to bleed and to me it sounds like air is being reintroduced. the heater has a high point with hoses air collects here. Cheers James 110 2012 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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20th Jan 2025 2:16pm |
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| jbcollier Member Since: 29 Apr 2024 Location: Edmonton AB Posts: 132  
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Are you getting air out when you bleed the system?
And, you have been repeatedly bleeding it for a long time now? |
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20th Jan 2025 2:27pm |
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| andy63 Member Since: 30 Jun 2023 Location: north east Posts: 582
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If your top hose is collapsing as the system cools it would suggest a blockage somewhere in the system..
Perhaps a collapsed liner in a hose.. and given your expansion tank was open at the time really odd.. When you run the engine can you get a steady stream of water out of the small bleed hose from the top of the radiator to the expansion tank, or is it constantly spluttering with air and water.. when I'm bleeding mine I usually watch the flow from that and keep giving it a few revs till it's clear of air and the expansion tank is full.. |
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20th Jan 2025 2:59pm |
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| bear100 Member Since: 22 Mar 2010 Location: South Wales Posts: 1933
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JST, initially I would a coolant loss from the coolant cap when on at least a 2 hour drive, I carried out the RELD test but it always passed ie no gasses in the coolant, but was doing go this after a half hour drive. So, carried the test out after a 2 hour drive and sure enough the fluid turned yellow!
Had the head gasket changed and head tested and skimmed. Worked great until one day last summer it started running hot, always runs around 87°c now 97°c and fluctuates dramatically. jb, yes air out every time and have been doing this for a good couple of months. andy63, I thought it was odd too especially with the cap off, there’s a lot of pipes to check! The little hose at the top of the rad to the tank is always warm, I can’t check for flow because I swapped it for an Optimill ally version I’ve bought a coolant pressure test kit which holds pressure for hours, 2023 Defender L663 V8 2016 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 TDV8 (gone) 2010 110 XS Utility 2.4TDCI 2010 Range Rover Sport TDV8 (gone) 2007 Discovery HSE TDV6 (gone) 1993 110 csw 200 tdi (gone) 1994 90 HT 300 tdi (gone) 1994 discovery 300tdi (gone) 90 hybrid 3.5 v8 (gone) Range rover bobtail 3.5 v8 (gone) |
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20th Jan 2025 8:43pm |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8136
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So gases present after 2hr journey and head gasket changed and skimmed.
What caused the head issue then?.was it resolved? So current over flow issue occurs after 2hr drive...... Air is coming from somewhere. Cheers James 110 2012 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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20th Jan 2025 10:13pm |
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| jbcollier Member Since: 29 Apr 2024 Location: Edmonton AB Posts: 132
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Ok, you are making air somehow. Either the EGR cooler is cracked and pushing exhaust in, the head is cracked, or the head gasket is gone again.
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20th Jan 2025 10:13pm |
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| andy63 Member Since: 30 Jun 2023 Location: north east Posts: 582
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Hi again.. just covering the points I made but as has been said your main issue appears to be gas getting into the system.. my comment related to a negative pressure been drawn in the top hose....
yes there are a good few hoses but I'd have a look at the top hose that actually folded.. the small tube that normally bleeds the system I mentioned is easily removed at the expansion tank and just hang it into the open tank and watch as as you rev the engine.. it should be a good healthy flow and splutter free once the sysyem is bled.. |
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21st Jan 2025 12:53pm |
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