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| ickle Member Since: 22 Jul 2010 Location: South Vendee Posts: 1807   
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I did mine just over a year ago, the only fiddle I found was forgetting to order new studs for the exhaust flange and trying to get the downpipes to line up with the studs in place (loosened an engine mount in the end) and mine has air con so the evaporator was in the way a bit for access - as its original and known to be a bit delicate I made a thin plywood cover for it for protection.
I'd say it was easier than the clutch and all of the polybushes I've just finished! Go for it and take your time, we can all help from the comfort of armchairs and log burners!!!!!! Keith |
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2nd Feb 2025 9:45am |
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| bear100 Member Since: 22 Mar 2010 Location: South Wales Posts: 1945  
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polybushes is on my list too!!
thanks for the advice, I've been watching this guy, really good to be fair to him, excellent videos. doesn't look to bad, if these step by step are followed Tackling this isn't from a finance point of view but more a personal achievement, i like to do as much of the maintenance and upgrades i can with what i have on the driveway. 2023 Defender L663 V8 2016 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 TDV8 (gone) 2010 110 XS Utility 2.4TDCI 2010 Range Rover Sport TDV8 (gone) 2007 Discovery HSE TDV6 (gone) 1993 110 csw 200 tdi (gone) 1994 90 HT 300 tdi (gone) 1994 discovery 300tdi (gone) 90 hybrid 3.5 v8 (gone) Range rover bobtail 3.5 v8 (gone) |
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2nd Feb 2025 9:56am |
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| ickle Member Since: 22 Jul 2010 Location: South Vendee Posts: 1807
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Yes watched those too - great source of info.
On the drive in south Wales in the winter? - can you collect the bits ready and do it when it gets lighter and warmer ? Or do you have a garage you can put the nose of your 110 into? Im with you on the reasons for doing it, plus you're know its been done properly. I had the clutch done 6 years or so ago by a specialist near Cheltenham, all has been good except the tunnel and floor plates were replaced by what looks like Tek screws so all of the square plastic inserts stripped, there were two cross threaded bolts on the bell housing, wiring looms weren't clipped in place and were chaffed, the cover over the transfer box lever was cracked...... Best of luck Keith |
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2nd Feb 2025 12:24pm |
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| jbcollier Member Since: 29 Apr 2024 Location: Edmonton AB Posts: 150  
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- look at videos but follow the manual religiously, especially torque sequences.
- do not guess at the angles when torquing. Use a torque wrench with angle settings (best) or an angle indicator (fiddly). - keep wearing parts in the same location and orientation (followers, etc). - do not reuse torque-to-yield bolts. - make sure you clean and blow out the threads in the block. - do not reuse gaskets or o-rings. There's a lot of them so get a kit that includes them all for the best price. - yes, head gasket thickness matters. - don't buy aftermarket parts -- by that I mean cheap, no-name stuff. Name-brand, OEM, Land Rover, or Ford. - since you are in there, reverse flush the heater core. It can make a huge difference. - same with belts, idlers, water pump, and hoses. If they are original, now is the easiest time to change them? - Ford timing chain kits are cheap. Change the sprockets, guides and tensioner, as well. - you do not need the timing tools. I bought them and ended up using drill bits and what not (see videos) instead as they worked better than what was in the kit (??!!) - thought about deleting the EGR? Easy to do it now but you'll have to get it mapped out as well. |
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2nd Feb 2025 1:30pm |
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