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ickle



Member Since: 22 Jul 2010
Location: South Vendee
Posts: 1849

France 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Alpine White
IIRC front covers are single use only, they deform when removed.....

HTH Keith
Post #1062832 13th Mar 2025 8:04pm
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jbcollier



Member Since: 29 Apr 2024
Location: Edmonton AB
Posts: 200

Canada 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Alpine White
I reused mine, no problem. They are cheap though so I'd probably change it if I was doing it again.
Post #1062836 13th Mar 2025 8:13pm
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bear100



Member Since: 22 Mar 2010
Location: South Wales
Posts: 1980

Wales 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
cheers guys

i presume they are sealed on with a sealant?

Is there a better workshop manual than Haines i should follow? 2023 Defender L663 V8
2016 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 TDV8 (gone)
2010 110 XS Utility 2.4TDCI
2010 Range Rover Sport TDV8 (gone)
2007 Discovery HSE TDV6 (gone)
1993 110 csw 200 tdi (gone)
1994 90 HT 300 tdi (gone)
1994 discovery 300tdi (gone)
90 hybrid 3.5 v8 (gone)
Range rover bobtail 3.5 v8 (gone)
Post #1062858 14th Mar 2025 8:35am
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jbcollier



Member Since: 29 Apr 2024
Location: Edmonton AB
Posts: 200

Canada 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Alpine White
No, do not use the Haynes manual. Use the factory manual. You can download it or get it off amazon. Read through the procedure carefully, making note of the torques and their sequences. Sometimes it is a bit confusing as to which torque applies (2.4/2.2). So figure that out before you start.

Yup, use a good quality sealer for the timing cover, and elsewhere. I use Permatex Ultra Grey and the high temp Ultra Red. There are other good sealers out there as well.

You absolutely have to have torque wrenches and an angle gauge (sometimes incorporated in a torque wrench). DO NOT GUESS.
Post #1062877 14th Mar 2025 1:00pm
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Siwynne



Member Since: 04 Nov 2016
Location: West lancs
Posts: 594

England 
Make sure you’ve got an alignment tool for the crank seal/timing cover makes sure the cover is spot on son the seal works. Also a good wire wheel to clean all sealant from surfaces if reusing the cover. I’ve done both reused and new . Never had one leak
Post #1062988 15th Mar 2025 12:04pm
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bear100



Member Since: 22 Mar 2010
Location: South Wales
Posts: 1980

Wales 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
Right got the Land Rover workshop manual £49, not bad off Amazon

Ok, so a brief look through, there isn't or i can't see a section which deals with changing the cylinder head.
All sections are itemised (eg cylinder head and shows how to remove and refit etc) but not necessarily in order for what i need to do, or am i not looking through it correctly? 2023 Defender L663 V8
2016 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 TDV8 (gone)
2010 110 XS Utility 2.4TDCI
2010 Range Rover Sport TDV8 (gone)
2007 Discovery HSE TDV6 (gone)
1993 110 csw 200 tdi (gone)
1994 90 HT 300 tdi (gone)
1994 discovery 300tdi (gone)
90 hybrid 3.5 v8 (gone)
Range rover bobtail 3.5 v8 (gone)
Post #1063554 21st Mar 2025 5:35pm
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jbcollier



Member Since: 29 Apr 2024
Location: Edmonton AB
Posts: 200

Canada 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Alpine White
Factory manuals do not do step by steps starting with removing the key from the ignition. You go to each relevant section as you work.
Post #1063606 22nd Mar 2025 1:56pm
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bear100



Member Since: 22 Mar 2010
Location: South Wales
Posts: 1980

Wales 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
Thanks jb eventually worked my head around, using the Haines and workshop side by side.

A good way through already, and to be honest me and my son are enjoying it!

Looks like I need a crank timing tool and as siwynne pointed out a crank seal alignment tool
The kits are expensive around £180, is there a workaround? I expect il only use it the once….hopefully!

Click image to enlarge
 2023 Defender L663 V8
2016 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 TDV8 (gone)
2010 110 XS Utility 2.4TDCI
2010 Range Rover Sport TDV8 (gone)
2007 Discovery HSE TDV6 (gone)
1993 110 csw 200 tdi (gone)
1994 90 HT 300 tdi (gone)
1994 discovery 300tdi (gone)
90 hybrid 3.5 v8 (gone)
Range rover bobtail 3.5 v8 (gone)
Post #1063608 22nd Mar 2025 2:22pm
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jbcollier



Member Since: 29 Apr 2024
Location: Edmonton AB
Posts: 200

Canada 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Alpine White
Glad to see you are taking photos and mad that I forgot to suggest it in the first place. I also bag and label everything -- damn, another thing I should have suggest earlier! You think you will remember but usually you don't.

It is all very straight forward. The only hitch for the inexperienced is not being able to recognize problems because you are seeing everything for the first time. Please, please ask here any time you are scratching your head. Illustrate your questions with photos.
Post #1063611 22nd Mar 2025 2:38pm
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jbcollier



Member Since: 29 Apr 2024
Location: Edmonton AB
Posts: 200

Canada 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Alpine White
Be a good time to fit a water pump if its history is unknown.
Post #1063612 22nd Mar 2025 2:39pm
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ickle



Member Since: 22 Jul 2010
Location: South Vendee
Posts: 1849

France 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Alpine White
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Diesel-Locking-Du...amp;sr=8-5

I think this is what I used - sorry can't seem to shrink link!!

edit - Its shrunk automatically - must be the cold!
Post #1063613 22nd Mar 2025 3:28pm
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jbcollier



Member Since: 29 Apr 2024
Location: Edmonton AB
Posts: 200

Canada 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Alpine White
I bought the special tool kit for timing the engine and ended up not using any of it. This video shows how to time the engine:



Locking the crank is critical! A 10mm allen key works perfectly. Drill bits or drill rod for the rest. The Land Rover has a fabricated metal bracket holding the crank position sensor.
Post #1063614 22nd Mar 2025 3:41pm
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jbcollier



Member Since: 29 Apr 2024
Location: Edmonton AB
Posts: 200

Canada 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Alpine White
Oh, and do not loosen or tighten any timing nuts or bolts without using a pry bar/screwdriver/pin-tool tool to work against!

This the type of pin-tool I used:


Click image to enlarge
Post #1063615 22nd Mar 2025 3:49pm
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bear100



Member Since: 22 Mar 2010
Location: South Wales
Posts: 1980

Wales 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
yes took lots of photos and taped the bolts and fixings in batches with labels etc Very Happy

So far what ive come across looks pretty good, only issue i had, it looks like the the mech who changed the head gasket broke the crank sensor or it broke when trying to remove and botched it, we eventually got it out and a new on order.
i changed the water pump a couple of months ago, had to remove the pump as one of the timing cover bolts was obscured by the pump pulley.

Cheers ickle, placed an order for it last night can't go wrong for under £30

jb good video thanks, explains it well, its the bit that worries me tbh the rest is very straight forward albeit long winded, removing the chain and getting it right when going back is the bit where it can all go wrong with inexperience, for some reason the black links on mine are not where they should be? expect the mech just put it on anyhow?

Bought a timing kit with pin tools in yesterday, i was thinking about how tight will the bolts be and will i disturb anything when removing etc, recommend using and impact wrench so not putting a lot of strain with a ratchet? 2023 Defender L663 V8
2016 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 TDV8 (gone)
2010 110 XS Utility 2.4TDCI
2010 Range Rover Sport TDV8 (gone)
2007 Discovery HSE TDV6 (gone)
1993 110 csw 200 tdi (gone)
1994 90 HT 300 tdi (gone)
1994 discovery 300tdi (gone)
90 hybrid 3.5 v8 (gone)
Range rover bobtail 3.5 v8 (gone)
Post #1063655 23rd Mar 2025 9:34am
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jbcollier



Member Since: 29 Apr 2024
Location: Edmonton AB
Posts: 200

Canada 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Alpine White
Don't use an impact wrench. Use pry bars, screwdrivers, and/or that pin wrench to brace the pulley you are working on.

The pulley and chain marks only line up on assembly so what you found is normal.
Post #1063673 23rd Mar 2025 2:24pm
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