 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > coolant air locking |
 
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| bear100 Member Since: 22 Mar 2010 Location: South Wales Posts: 1930   
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No help?
 2023 Defender L663 V8
2016 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 TDV8 (gone) 2010 110 XS Utility 2.4TDCI 2010 Range Rover Sport TDV8 (gone) 2007 Discovery HSE TDV6 (gone) 1993 110 csw 200 tdi (gone) 1994 90 HT 300 tdi (gone) 1994 discovery 300tdi (gone) 90 hybrid 3.5 v8 (gone) Range rover bobtail 3.5 v8 (gone) |
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10th Jan 2025 8:27am |
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| Marks Landy Member Since: 09 Feb 2015 Location: Cheshire Posts: 300  
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Is the Thermostat opening at the right temperature?
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10th Jan 2025 10:33am |
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| Johan_B Member Since: 20 Sep 2024 Location: Gothenburg Posts: 41  
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Don't think I have any help to offer.
I drained and filled my system 3 times this fall and followed the procedure in the WSM to the letter. You don't say but I will assume you did the same? I had no problems with airlocks. You say it is running hot, compared to what? Isn't 94-100 C perfectly acceptable for these engines? Could it be that a lower ambient air temperature can allow higher cooling temp before fan kicks in? Usual 84-87 C seems a bit low with a standard thermostat, doesn't it start to open at 87C and fully open at 92C? Could it be that the old one has been stuck open and you actually ran cold all the time? Idling in the cold will always lower the temperature in the blower significantly. There's a very low flow in the heater and not much energy coming from the engine. The hoses I will need to get out to the Land Rover to think through... As I said, not much help. I understand you are experiencing a change of some sort and to that there should be an explanation. |
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10th Jan 2025 11:16am |
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| piechipsandpeas Member Since: 12 May 2021 Location: Albany, Western Australia Posts: 219  
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Hi Bear
The top right hose is the inlet to the radiator. This will be warm but only get hot when the thermostat is open and hot coolant is then entering the radiator to be cooled, prior to this it will feel warm but not hot. The big hose below the radiator is the return hose from the radiator outlet and will feel cool/cold until the thermostat opens and hot coolant flows through the radiator, noting that both the radiator and lower hose will always have coolant in them, just that until the thermostat opens that coolant is stationary and not doing anything. Note that even when coolant is flowing through the radiator \ the bottom hose will always feel less hot than the top hose as the radiator will be doing the thing it is designed to do (ie reduce the temp of the coolant before returning it to the engine). So don't be surprised that yours is cold and feels like there is no flow, as that will be the case while the thermostat is closed, which at the time of year where you are is quite likely, especially when idling. The small hose to the expansion tank is there to allow the excess coolant to get back into the expansion tank as the coolant heats up and expands, so should feel hot. even if the other two aren't. Have you tried testing the thermostat when out of the engine to see if is functioning at the correct temp? Andy |
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10th Jan 2025 1:00pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20540
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Isnโt there two thermostats with a different temp reading by type?
I thought I have read that before. No Guts, No Glory. ๐ฌ๐ง๐ด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ฅ๓ ฎ๓ ง๓ ฟ๐ด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ท๓ ฌ๓ ณ๓ ฟ๐ด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ณ๓ ฃ๓ ด๓ ฟ๐ฎ๐ช๐บ๐ธโฝ๏ธ๐ข๏ธโ๏ธ๐งฐ๐ช |
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10th Jan 2025 1:34pm |
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| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 2091
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When I drain the coolant I do it from the oil cooler, I would do it from the fuel cooler but I donโt have one on my 2.2. In addition i remove the bottom radiator hose and drain a few more litres of coolant from there. That way I know I have fully drained the system and reduced likelihood of air locks On refilling . Before draining I also turn the heater control fully to hot and remove coolant cap.
I Follow the WSM process to refill the system and have never had airlocks. I suspect you have some air in the system, perhaps trapped in the heater matrix, so remove heater matrix hoses from heater control valve and pump some coolant into the heater matrix to see what comes out of the matrix return hose. You can modify a garden sprayer bottle to do this. Reconnect hoses, run engine and bleed any air. Ps worth checking heater valve is operating correctly before re fitting hoses. If this does not help you can drain again as I do, inc removing bottom rad hose, then see if that works getter for you in keeping air out of the system. |
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10th Jan 2025 3:12pm |
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| bear100 Member Since: 22 Mar 2010 Location: South Wales Posts: 1930
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thanks guys, working away at the moment and struggling to find time to mess with it.
as mentioned the heaters will run hot when on a run but as soon as you come to s atop at traffic etc the heaters will blow cold not cool but cold no heat at all, even on a run the heater will go cold and i need to stop and bleed the vent. what happened this Saturday, i went for a run it ran really well and stayed hot for much longer, when i got back and an hour or so later went to top up the coolant (loss from bleeding) the usual pressure in the tank, a little while later with the cap still off the top coolant hose was under vacuum (slightly squished with the pressure) to check i released the clamp and sure enough there was a vacuum (cap still off at this point) what would cause this? 2023 Defender L663 V8 2016 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 TDV8 (gone) 2010 110 XS Utility 2.4TDCI 2010 Range Rover Sport TDV8 (gone) 2007 Discovery HSE TDV6 (gone) 1993 110 csw 200 tdi (gone) 1994 90 HT 300 tdi (gone) 1994 discovery 300tdi (gone) 90 hybrid 3.5 v8 (gone) Range rover bobtail 3.5 v8 (gone) |
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20th Jan 2025 7:41am |
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