24heuer wrote:

deja-vu?
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic84752.html
all looks very familiar

Oh my yes those are very similar failures

HardCharger wrote:

steveww wrote:

Salisbury axle on a Puma

Pardon my ignorance, but what are the pros and cons of this mod?

The salisbury is reputedly a "stronger" axle (based on the Dana 60 IIRC) than the P38. But it has its foibles in that they are more difficult to set up and they reduce clearance under the axle and tend to gouge trenches in the Earth

It could be since the Defender was in Canada that the Salisbury axle was what they had locally rather than going through the expense of ordering parts for the P38 from the UK. Possibly...

geobloke wrote:

And here is the damage to the planetary gears


Click image to enlarge


Click image to enlarge


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Click image to enlarge

donmacn wrote:

I think you've done very well to catch this at this stage, though I understand that you've past reason to be vigilant. It looks to me with all those cracked planetary gears that things were about to get a lot worse and possibly quite quickly.

"Dèja vu"? - though I haven't written it up yet I've spent much of the last three months (having the luxury of a garage) refurbing my swivels/hubs/bearings/seals etc. Like you mine were only a kick in the pants off 250k miles. I just decided to change everything for 'peace of mind'. None of it is especially difficult to do incrementally, but it's all an involved process and I thought "do it once, do it properly". Though I do also get the point about not switching out serviceable parts willy-nilly.

All I am going to say on the subject of luck is thank goodness for magnetic drain plugs… Fit them people they are worth every Penny…. I have them on every drain plug.

Good effort doing your own swivels. They aren’t terribly hard but folks get frightened away by the setting of the preload with shims. The best advice I ever got was to wedge some soft soulder where the shims go and torque the bolts down. The thickness of the soulder is the thickness of the shims to start with. Works every time.

Completely agree about the peace of mind thing I have done it many times and it is the reason I am pulling the swivels off to replace the oil seal hiding behind it.

Looking forward to your write up

excossack wrote:

Other than finding chunks in your oil, did you have any odd noises/rumbles etc?
Roughly how long do you think it took you remove diff/half shafts etc?

Hi John. There might have been a little more transmission clunk, possibly… May have been a whine… nothing that I would have gone… A ha that there noise is indicative of the planetary gears eating themselves

If I was just pulling the diff then I would do as above and pop the whole brake and swivel assembly out by a couple of inches and extract the diff. That should take about two hours or so and minimal tools. As it was I decided to check on the CV and seals and so probably the best part of five or six hours taking my time.

geobloke wrote:

The salisbury is reputedly a "stronger" axle (based on the Dana 60 IIRC) than the P38. But it has its foibles in that they are more difficult to set up and they reduce clearance under the axle and tend to gouge trenches in the Earth

It could be since the Defender was in Canada that the Salisbury axle was what they had locally rather than going through the expense of ordering parts for the P38 from the UK. Possibly...

Oh, OK. Thank you for the information a bit wiser today

geobloke wrote:

Good effort doing your own swivels. They aren’t terribly hard but folks get frightened away by the setting of the preload with shims. The best advice I ever got was to wedge some soft soulder where the shims go and torque the bolts down. The thickness of the soulder is the thickness of the shims to start with. Works every time.

100% with you on the magnetic drain plugs - do them all is my approach.

Nice idea about the solder! I don’t find the swivels “difficult” as such, just a bit of a pain with the to-ing and fro-ing with shims. I last did this job something like 15-17 years ago. By the time I do it again I’d be in my 70s and I’m sure advanced senility will have set in. If I’m lucky I’ll remember that someone once gave me a handy tip…. but won’t be able to find it!  Donald

1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong
(The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html )
2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8

in the past..
RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi
1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box
1993 Discovery 300Tdi

not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper...

donmacn wrote:

geobloke wrote:

Good effort doing your own swivels. They aren’t terribly hard but folks get frightened away by the setting of the preload with shims. The best advice I ever got was to wedge some soft soulder where the shims go and torque the bolts down. The thickness of the soulder is the thickness of the shims to start with. Works every time.

100% with you on the magnetic drain plugs - do them all is my approach.

Nice idea about the solder! I don’t find the swivels “difficult” as such, just a bit of a pain with the to-ing and fro-ing with shims. I last did this job something like 15-17 years ago. By the time I do it again I’d be in my 70s and I’m sure advanced senility will have set in. If I’m lucky I’ll remember that someone once gave me a handy tip…. but won’t be able to find it!

Well hopefully by then there will be a Defender2.net old codgers home we can all scuttle about in poking and prodding at what is left of our Land Rovers with what is left of our bodies and minds