Quote:

I use a piece of old carpet when lying under the car or folded up when kneeling down.

A fair few parts to come off to replace a diff.
Can you just remove the brake disc assembly and leave the swivels in place when removing the half shafts?

Quote:

My experience of Lanoguard - 2 years on.

This is based on 24 months of use on both my Defender (Miffy) and Freelander2 (Phoebe), both are used regularly and all year round. These are not occasional use weekend vehicles and that is stated for context, they are used regularly and in all weathers and conditions. Trust me when I say we get them all here in Wales... Additionally I have used other more traditional chassis treatments over many years, including Waxoyl, Tetroseal, Dinitrol and engine oil.

Experience

Lanoguard is a super easy product to apply, so much much easier than the age old traditional Waxoyl style chassis treatment, especially within the chassis. Unlike Waxoyl, Lanoguard does not require warming up, but it does help. The constant to-ing and fro-ing with super heated wax and the time delayed effectiveness of the spraying nozzle as the wax cools. No need for an air compressor. It is a pain but consider it a life skill I do like how easy Lanoguard is to apply and as such it is a DIYers dream chassis treatment.

As a personal preference I would prefer a black chassis and the weird greedy-brown tinge is a bit meh! but I can live with that and reputedly the addition of liquid Kiwi boot polish works as a colouring. I have not tried it yet.

The slight sheep whiff is not a problem and it dissipates relatively quickly.

Lanoguard goes a long way... 2 litres is enough to do both of my Land Rovers, whereas to Waxoyl just Miffy will take a 5L tin. Cost of a 2L refill of Lanoguard is £56 and a 5L refill of Waxoyl is £36.


But...

Lanoguard appears to wear off much much much much quicker than other traditional treatments, especially in higher impact areas like wheel arches and suspension components. My experience so far is that Lanoguard is at best a 12 month repeat application and preferably before winter begins. It is not a spray and forget treatment. Regular top-up applications are essential bordering on critical for continued protection. This is undoubtedly due to the thinness of the application of Lanoguard. As such the price difference over two years between Lanoguard and Waxoyl will be fairly equal.

It does not "set" as completely, remaining tacky, as the traditional treatments and as such dust and dirt adheres to it making the chassis and components constantly filthy.

If Lanoguard is not completely used up after the first use it appears to grow some sort of mould, long strand-like filaments that block up the trigger filters and nozzle. At the end of the day it is an organic treatment and as such I do not think it should be kept long-term at ambient temperatures. My 2L bottle was kept in the garage at atmospheric temperatures. Perhaps this is a one-off experience but it did make the second application frustrating as the system kept blocking up. In some ways more frustrating than Waxoyl to be honest.


Conclusions

I think I will continue with Lanoguard for one more year and give the boot polish tinting a go, but I am considering using a different product in high impact areas, such as the wheel arches. Lanoguard just doesn't, in my experience, cope well in wheel arches or on suspension components within. It is however, excellent for getting in to blind spaces and inside the chassis or cross-members. Perhaps a two pronged approach is best here, Lanoguard in low impact areas and something else in high impact areas.

excossack wrote:

I've not done C-Pillars but have done the mid cross member.

I have debated removing those triangle sections on mine, but not yet taken the leap.

My rear x-member went in about the same place.

It is remarkably irritating that the only bits that have rusted through are those that you cannot protect. The rest of the crossmember is solid.

I think those triangular panels hide many sins and are often forgotten about. I am guilty of it. Plenty of attention to the main chassis, but the bits behind the dinky panel, not so much. I think it would be a good policy for any 110 owner to take that panel off (it is not difficult), clean it and slather the whole area in waxy/dintrol

It also adds a lot of weight to fitting the full Gwyn Lewis mud shield kits as it is the constant barrage of dirty salty grime that causes this rusty failure.

BuckBlu110 wrote:

I’ve replaced the c pillars on mine, it wasn’t too bad. If you’re ok with cutting and welding metal, then you should find it fairly straightforward.
Start by drilling out the rivets down the side of the tub.
The pillars are spot welded on to the sill (was on mine at least) so a spot weld drill bit will help here massively.
Once they’re drilled out and the two bolts that go through the seat box/floor are removed, they should be loose (there may be more fittings but can’t remember off the top of my head.
I replaced the two square sections of the floor/ seat box that those bolts go through as mine were ripe. This made extraction much easier. If your doing the mid crossmember too, then it might be best to remove the whole floor to allow better access to everything.
Also make sure you take measurements all round before you take the pillars out so you don’t end up spending the rest of your life trying to get the rest of the body to line up.
I took measurements at the top and bottom between the c pillars, between the c and b pillars and between the c pillars and rear of the tub.
I probably welded them more than I needed to as I did all mating faces that touch the sill, but I think if you weld at least as much as the spot welds held then you can’t got far wrong.
Im sure I followed a guide on the web but can’t for the life of me think where I found it.
On refitting of the triangle pieces and pillars, I also took the opportunity to put a thin piece of rubber to act as a barrier between the pillar and panels, and dipped my rivets in duralac paste to keep that nasty corrosion bug at bay.
Good luck, it looks more daunting than it actually is and dare I say it, easier than a rear xmember.

Marvellous reply. Many thanks. I can weld, but have no welder anymore... I am going to ask around to see if anyone has a small mig I can borrow for the job... Possibly even the rear cross member although that is not critical at the moment.

Spot welded you say? I am going to have to have a much closer look and see whether mine are as well. I couldn't see much in the way of lines of weld over he weekend.

From what I can see, there are two reputable sellers of C posts:

YRM:

Full post https://yrmit.co.uk/product/lhs-full-c-pos...or-5-door/

Repair panel https://yrmit.co.uk/product/rhs-c-post-45-...or-5-door/

and

SP: https://www.sp-4x4.com/PAIR_82x35x20_10KG_p/lr732n-s.htm


The YRM repair panel has piqued my interest. Might be a good alternative. Still need a welder mind

geobloke wrote:

excossack wrote:

I've not done C-Pillars but have done the mid cross member.

I have debated removing those triangle sections on mine, but not yet taken the leap.

My rear x-member went in about the same place.

It is remarkably irritating that the only bits that have rusted through are those that you cannot protect. The rest of the crossmember is solid.

I think those triangular panels hide many sins and are often forgotten about. I am guilty of it. Plenty of attention to the main chassis, but the bits behind the dinky panel, not so much. I think it would be a good policy for any 110 owner to take that panel off (it is not difficult), clean it and slather the whole area in waxy/dintrol

It also adds a lot of weight to fitting the full Gwyn Lewis mud shield kits as it is the constant barrage of dirty salty grime that causes this rusty failure.