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| X4SKP Member Since: 29 Nov 2013 Location: Berkshire Posts: 2293   
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'This thread reaches parts other treads don't reach' so generally I think the Defender is well covered... 
The FE123 didn't claim any special heat resistant characteristics so whist the diesel injector rail doesn't get hot some areas in direct 'intimate' contact with the engine block may soak up and obtain high enough temperatures to cause issues. I'v looked at maybe a dozen or so Puma Engines close up and all display rust on a few similar components, so I thought I would just try and see how the FE123 performed and it looks good so now I know it's stable (enough) I'll top coat with a known higher temperature paint and keep an eye on the overall result. The bits that rust really do (to my eye) jump out at you in an otherwise 'as new' engine bay ...so why not try and improve it. As for other areas... I know (because I have measured the thickness) that the paint applied to mine varies from more than you would typically expect on a vehicle (all my doors) to roughly what you would expect (main body panels) to less than you would like (bulk head and the interior generally). The front bulk head area (directly above the bonnet) has only just been painted on mine 1 or 2 passes of the spray gun (at a guess) If I look really close then I can see pin point areas of rust. This area will be refinished in the spring, (along with all the checker plate which is 4 years old now). So follow the tread and if an area bothers you...fix it Good Luck...  SKIP
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html |
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15th Mar 2016 8:52pm |
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| X4SKP Member Since: 29 Nov 2013 Location: Berkshire Posts: 2293
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Hello All
Some more info' from Funrover &nohtml5=False Their other video is on Page 19 of this thread... http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic10467-270.html Good Luck... SKIP https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html |
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6th Apr 2016 2:57pm |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5006
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Nice video.
Just a correction when Ben says the body doesn,t rust it is aluminium, and correctly says aluminium corrodes not rust. The body is not all made of aluminium so parts do rust and they will rot well before the chassis shows significant deterioration. As most know the rear body cappings are made of steel and are bare metal underneath and are rotting from new. More worrying is the bonnet to bulkhead hinge which is also untreated metal. If that rots through you have a major welding or bulkhead replacement problem. It is all on the first page of my thread (this thread) as well as windscreen surrounds, rivets on 110's etc etc. Just saying the body is equally important. Also clients have seen Bens video of the black shiny Dintrol and have not liked the finish which has been the cause of Many anxious pm's etc. The underbody 4125 actually dries matt and is more black/dark brown not jet black shiny. Dinitrol now also do two clear products. One is heat resistant and will harden called Corroheat 4010 the other remains tacky to the touch and is called High Performance Wax spray (would just collect all the dirt but has it,s uses). Corroheat is pricey but clear and hardens, it will chip but you can touch up easily. Morgan are using the Corroheat on 50 of there anniversary cars. it,s a good product to use on classic cars when you want to be able to keep an eye on what is going on underneath. BilT Hamber led the way on this... |
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6th Apr 2016 4:44pm |
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| Giby_off Member Since: 05 Apr 2015 Location: Sofia Posts: 63  
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I got my aerosol Dinitrol kit but there was no "How to" inside. Could you please help me to find those instructions?
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22nd Apr 2016 8:36pm |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5006
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I don,t have time to explain it all but all the info you need is on this thread from myself and others
New ones still coming in, this one still has it,s factory stickers, protective film on it... 
Sadly brand new ones will come to an end soon. I have must have done over 200 of them but am now doing more older models and other marques of cars including classics. Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated  |
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23rd Apr 2016 8:04am |
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| Gordo Member Since: 08 Jul 2015 Location: Surrey Posts: 29
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Thanks to Chris (mine's the scotia grey 110 above in his post on the rhs) - cracking job and an absolute gent. Well worth the trips to Billinghurst
Gordo |
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24th Apr 2016 8:59pm |
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| Venomator Member Since: 25 Aug 2014 Location: Peterborough Posts: 2087
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I'm guessing you won't be doing too many of these though matey... 
Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Green and named just for you... Rog...
The GREEN One... MY2016 Urban Truck Build Thread - http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic40548....al[/color] |
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24th Apr 2016 9:06pm |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5006
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 Hmmm not quite the DB4 GT Zagato regarded as one of the most beautiful cars in the world  I do like the Tri Kings a lot. Would be quite nice if you replaced the bike exhausts and made riveted painted ally for those nasty GRP light box moulds and number plate moulds. It wouldn,t be so obvious it was all GRP then. Original 3 wheeler Morgan prices have rocketed recently! Worse modern one was the Citroen based kit incarnation...Last edited by Zagato on 26th Apr 2016 5:27pm. Edited 2 times in total |
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26th Apr 2016 5:13pm |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5006
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Many thanks Gordon, nice to meet you |
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26th Apr 2016 5:15pm |
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| Biffas Member Since: 30 Dec 2015 Location: Surrey Posts: 122  
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Hi Chris would like to book my landrover in with you i have a 2014 110 usw in very good condition mileage 13000 miles , how do i book it in with you and what is the price many thanks from Luke.
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26th Apr 2016 7:27pm |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5006
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Sending a pm now Luke
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26th Apr 2016 7:58pm |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5006
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Even when a customer cleans there chassis, it,s amazing what you can still get out of the inside of the chassis, with rust flakes also sometimes from the rear crossmember
 From a TD5...
Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated |
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15th May 2016 2:25pm |
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| Riverboy Member Since: 16 May 2016 Location: French sector, Earth Posts: 1288 
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Hi guys. I'm bringing my 2014 90 SW up to the UK from the south of France at the end of June to have some nice upgrades done
I'd really like to get this Dinitrol treatment done while I'm there as well. How long does it all take to do?. |
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17th May 2016 1:25pm |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5006
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Hi Riverboy, speaking for myself it takes about 9 hours to do a clients newish one with little chassis rust as I spend time also sealing the windows, plus rust prevention work on the actual body where there is bare metal between hinges, under cappings etc, doing rivets, radiator surround, headlight rims, air intake screws, wiper spindles etc etc and inside of the actual vehicle plus under the bonnet as well as the usual door posts and bottoms, chassis etc etc. I like to do mine over two days but it can be done in a long day... I have a TD5 in at the moment and it can take a day just to grind back rust, rust convert etc ready for the cavity wax and underbody wax. I am literally chiselling the rust off with this one in the nooks and crannies where machinery can,t get into!
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17th May 2016 3:03pm |
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