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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
Posts: 5009

United Kingdom 
Buzzweld was the latest 'Buzzword' a few years ago, now it is Lanoguard with massive advertising and exposure on social media. Both claim to stop rust but of course they don,t. It's all been said before but Buzzweld is a rock hard product that traps rust in and it doesn,t show through. Lanoguard is simply a glue. Neither actually addresses the rust in the first place which you need to do on a Defender. Dinitrol will withstand a certain amount of jet washing but it will erode off over time with repeated strong close up blasting which you don,t tend to do for any reason.
Good luck Thumbs Up all info about treating the rust then applying Dinitrol is repeated in past posts Wink
Post #962160 18th Aug 2022 5:55pm
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BuckBlu110



Member Since: 19 Apr 2014
Location: in the pub
Posts: 712

United Kingdom 1994 Defender 110 BMW M57 3.0 Diesel CSW Buckingham Blue
Zagato wrote:
You will find your answer repeated a few times in this thread but quickly.... Any acid rust converter treatments (Ku-Rust, Fertan, Jenolite, RC900 etc etc are all the same about 6-9% acid content in various mediums) are only effective if you get the rust right down to good metal. They don,t soak into rust much at all. They are effective on metal which you can grind back to near good metal BUT on Land Rover chassis you cannot get machinery into the various nooks and crannies or in seams or welds so simply spraying it on top of rust is next to useless especially if there is significant rust. "Professionals" and DIYers have realised that ACF-50 stabilises rust more effectively, even after a year when it becomes inactive. I have had a test area going back 9 years that I have retreated once and it has not got any worse. I'm not suggesting this would be the same on a Defender chassis... how it Is prepped... seams, welds, conditions... all considered but it is definitely more effective than acid convertors in rustier areas. Don,t be tempted to use the tough hard coatings you are just trapping in rust, not stopping it... despite what so many products claim about stopping rust, they don't, they just stop it showing through or simply cover over rust!
ACF-50 is not that durable to road conditions long term, especially off-road so you need to put a covering over it to protect it. Dinitrol 4941 is ideal for this. At first it will have a tacky, wet look, but it will go off to the dry matt finish after a couple of weeks 👍 You can buy 4litres of ACF-50 for £80 from The Sportsbikeshop you will probably only need half of that. If using a compressor you will need the paint spraying type or brush it on, or spray it on with a simple garden hand pumped sprayer e.g. Old empty bug sprayer.
The point with Defender chassis is to have the ability to slow the rot right down, be able to keep an eye on corroded areas and retreat when necessary every 4-5 years if required.


Quick question, when applying acf-50 on crusty bits, do you leave the applied areas a certain period of time to soak in before applying the 4941? Or would you apply straight away?
Thanks.
Post #962234 19th Aug 2022 10:16am
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Caterham



Member Since: 06 Nov 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 6295

England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
Zagato wrote:
Nice selection. Local LR's for a change. One of the 90's has only done 6500 miles Shocked I have done it from new Very Happy


Click image to enlarge


Mr Zag - I hope you are well. Good to see you are keeping busy and doing a fantastic job with these motors.
just wondering if you might have any more pics of the two grey defenders above. I've been humming and arring for ages in respect of which LED's (clear lens or original) for my stornaway grey 110 (without privacy glass). Thumbs Up
sorry Off Topic
Post #962241 19th Aug 2022 12:10pm
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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
Posts: 5009

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Quote:


Quick question, when applying acf-50 on crusty bits, do you leave the applied areas a certain period of time to soak in before applying the 4941? Or would you apply straight away?
Thanks.


Yes it's best to leave it a couple of hours if you have only treated a small area and lightly. If however you have lashed it on wholesale over a large area then I leave it at least a day 👍ACF-50 will be still active underneath Dinitrol for many months doing its thing... it's more about letting it go off a bit so that any top coat will not separate. E.g. If you have ever painted on a coat of something when the previous layer has not dried properly it is like that. It can slip down on vertical surfaces but only if applied really thickly which I tend to do...
Post #962261 19th Aug 2022 3:40pm
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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
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Caterham wrote:


Mr Zag - I hope you are well. Good to see you are keeping busy and doing a fantastic job with these motors.
just wondering if you might have any more pics of the two grey defenders above. I've been humming and arring for ages in respect of which LED's (clear lens or original) for my stornaway grey 110 (without privacy glass). Thumbs Up
sorry Off Topic


Hi Caterham, Thumbs Up sorry that's the only pic I took. Neutral
Post #962263 19th Aug 2022 3:45pm
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Caterham



Member Since: 06 Nov 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 6295

England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
I can see why you didn't follow in the footsteps of Lord Lichfield in that case - just one photo Sad Rolling with laughter

no worries.

don't suppose you know which shade of grey they are - particularly the one with the clear lens?
Thumbs Up

looking at the LR badge at the back I'm going to guess they're both 2.2s and corris grey?
Post #962264 19th Aug 2022 3:48pm
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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
Posts: 5009

United Kingdom 
This is truly gorgeous, absolutely mint with none of the usual body issues which is a very rare thing. Largely because it hasn't got rivets to corrode, rear capping weld points to rust, alpine window surrounds to bubble Laughing the list goes on but suffice to say she is kept in immaculate condition despite being kept outside under a bespoke cover. No front guttering cracking, no bubbling around the windscreen etc. Has to be in the top five on my books for condition. I have done her from near new and it's nice to see another original example :bow 7500 miles, still smells like new.


Click image to enlarge
Post #962265 19th Aug 2022 3:54pm
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BuckBlu110



Member Since: 19 Apr 2014
Location: in the pub
Posts: 712

United Kingdom 1994 Defender 110 BMW M57 3.0 Diesel CSW Buckingham Blue
Zagato wrote:
Quote:


Quick question, when applying acf-50 on crusty bits, do you leave the applied areas a certain period of time to soak in before applying the 4941? Or would you apply straight away?
Thanks.


Yes it's best to leave it a couple of hours if you have only treated a small area and lightly. If however you have lashed it on wholesale over a large area then I leave it at least a day 👍ACF-50 will be still active underneath Dinitrol for many months doing its thing... it's more about letting it go off a bit so that any top coat will not separate. E.g. If you have ever painted on a coat of something when the previous layer has not dried properly it is like that. It can slip down on vertical surfaces but only if applied really thickly which I tend to do...


Excellent, thanks 🙏
Post #962291 19th Aug 2022 8:26pm
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Baldinho



Member Since: 28 Oct 2012
Location: Surrey
Posts: 123

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 SW Orkney Grey
Caterham wrote:
Zagato wrote:
Nice selection. Local LR's for a change. One of the 90's has only done 6500 miles Shocked I have done it from new Very Happy


Click image to enlarge


Mr Zag - I hope you are well. Good to see you are keeping busy and doing a fantastic job with these motors.
just wondering if you might have any more pics of the two grey defenders above. I've been humming and arring for ages in respect of which LED's (clear lens or original) for my stornaway grey 110 (without privacy glass). Thumbs Up
sorry Off Topic


Caterham, mine's the AV reg one with original lenses (and the huge 6,500 miles Very Happy ). Should be other photos in my gallery but do shout if you'd like any other photos.

PS Chris, thanks for the great service again Thumbs Up
Post #962789 24th Aug 2022 7:55pm
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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
Posts: 5009

United Kingdom 
This is a genuine little fella, used as intended, nice clutch/gearbox, starts on the button etc... Thumbs Up


Click image to enlarge
Post #963969 4th Sep 2022 12:20pm
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steveww



Member Since: 05 Jan 2022
Location: Uppingham
Posts: 566

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Bronze Green
Anyone ever used any of the Buzzweld products for rust prevention?

Looks like they have some good offerings.

https://www.buzzweld.co.uk/zero-prep-ceram...rcoat.html
Post #964097 5th Sep 2022 4:28pm
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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
Posts: 5009

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Certainly hope not Rolling Eyes

They say...

"You can apply onto a wet surface with minimal preparation".

"U.P. flows in between spot welds, and absorbs into corrosion forcing out the residual moisture and air, suffocating the ability for corrosion to continue".

Rolling with laughter Rolling Eyes

Similar to Lanoguard with claims of stopping rust you are obviously not. You are just coating over corrosion. YOU HAVE TO ADDRESS THE CORROSION FIRST, it's no good just painting on a barrier. You are just trapping rot in and if you paint it on whilst wet you are trapping that moisture in also making it far worse than if you did nothing at all. There are no short cuts to correcting rust. You need to acid convert or stabilise rust etc first. No product disperses moisture, it soaks into metal, it NEEDS to dry first... they have got that from Waxoyl marketing. It's all been said before, many times. Sorry...
Post #964101 5th Sep 2022 4:50pm
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steveww



Member Since: 05 Jan 2022
Location: Uppingham
Posts: 566

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Bronze Green
Quote:
Similar to Lanoguard with claims of stopping rust you are obviously not. You are just coating over corrosion. YOU HAVE TO ADDRESS THE CORROSION FIRST, it's no good just painting on a barrier. You are just trapping rot in and if you paint it on whilst wet you are trapping that moisture in also making it far worse than if you did nothing at all. There are no short cuts to correcting rust. You need to acid convert or stabilise rust etc first. No product disperses moisture, it soaks into metal, it NEEDS to dry first... they have got that from Waxoyl marketing. It's all been said before, many times. Sorry...


I've copiously sprayed underneath with ACF50 which I understand stabilises the rust. Is best just to do this every year rather than add a layer of stuff which just seals the rot in to fester?
Post #964138 6th Sep 2022 8:50am
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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
Posts: 5009

United Kingdom 
Depends on the use of the vehicle but ACF-50 will wash/wear off quite quickly so you will need to spray on a protective coating but one that is not rock hard like Buzzweld (designed 20 years ago to protect the loading area of flat beds in trucks) or a glue Lanoguard that just bubbles, peels away in time but is really time consuming, impractical to get off. Dinitrol 4941 or Corroheat clear will naturally wear off in time (time depending on useage) can be touched up or recoated easily, is not streaky, does not remain tacky etc etc. It's not a con it's a quality product that is straightforward to maintain in the future.

I afraid the job is messy, not easy, can give you lung damage and has to be done properly. There are no effective shortcut products on the market. You would be better just spraying it with oil than Buzzweld or Lanoguard. Widespread advertising fools many unfortunately Rolling Eyes
Post #964146 6th Sep 2022 10:50am
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kenzle8a



Member Since: 12 Feb 2020
Location: None
Posts: 1074

 
Heres my experience with a few things - Applied July / August last year. Covered about 8k miles since then, mostly to and from the farm and into and out of the fields through the winter.

Sprays and Waxes

ACF - 50 - probably ok if you never leave London or the home counties, lasted a day on mine.

Lanougard - gloopy mess, runs off and smells worse than my wellies inside...

Buzzweld WAR - useless, lasted about 3 weeks before it was washed off.

Blithambler Dynax S50 and UB - decent but messy, You need the thicker one for anything externally facing.

Dinitrol Coroheat - Fantastic stuff, did the front end and bulkhead with it, still nice and wax and dry.

Paints

Arc Rite CIO - Thus far im impressed, cross memeber etc all done and looking good still.

Blit Hambler Zinc Primer - Again im pretty impressed with it.

Buzzweld coach enamel, quality is decent, colour match not so much...
Post #964150 6th Sep 2022 11:17am
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