Zagato wrote:

You will find your answer repeated a few times in this thread but quickly.... Any acid rust converter treatments (Ku-Rust, Fertan, Jenolite, RC900 etc etc are all the same about 6-9% acid content in various mediums) are only effective if you get the rust right down to good metal. They don,t soak into rust much at all. They are effective on metal which you can grind back to near good metal BUT on Land Rover chassis you cannot get machinery into the various nooks and crannies or in seams or welds so simply spraying it on top of rust is next to useless especially if there is significant rust. "Professionals" and DIYers have realised that ACF-50 stabilises rust more effectively, even after a year when it becomes inactive. I have had a test area going back 9 years that I have retreated once and it has not got any worse. I'm not suggesting this would be the same on a Defender chassis... how it Is prepped... seams, welds, conditions... all considered but it is definitely more effective than acid convertors in rustier areas. Don,t be tempted to use the tough hard coatings you are just trapping in rust, not stopping it... despite what so many products claim about stopping rust, they don't, they just stop it showing through or simply cover over rust!
ACF-50 is not that durable to road conditions long term, especially off-road so you need to put a covering over it to protect it. Dinitrol 4941 is ideal for this. At first it will have a tacky, wet look, but it will go off to the dry matt finish after a couple of weeks 👍 You can buy 4litres of ACF-50 for £80 from The Sportsbikeshop you will probably only need half of that. If using a compressor you will need the paint spraying type or brush it on, or spray it on with a simple garden hand pumped sprayer e.g. Old empty bug sprayer.
The point with Defender chassis is to have the ability to slow the rot right down, be able to keep an eye on corroded areas and retreat when necessary every 4-5 years if required.

Zagato wrote:

Nice selection. Local LR's for a change. One of the 90's has only done 6500 miles I have done it from new


Click image to enlarge

Mr Zag - I hope you are well. Good to see you are keeping busy and doing a fantastic job with these motors.
just wondering if you might have any more pics of the two grey defenders above. I've been humming and arring for ages in respect of which LED's (clear lens or original) for my stornaway grey 110 (without privacy glass).
sorry

Quote:

Quick question, when applying acf-50 on crusty bits, do you leave the applied areas a certain period of time to soak in before applying the 4941? Or would you apply straight away?
Thanks.

Caterham wrote:

Mr Zag - I hope you are well. Good to see you are keeping busy and doing a fantastic job with these motors.
just wondering if you might have any more pics of the two grey defenders above. I've been humming and arring for ages in respect of which LED's (clear lens or original) for my stornaway grey 110 (without privacy glass).
sorry

Hi Caterham, sorry that's the only pic I took.

Zagato wrote:

Quote:

Quick question, when applying acf-50 on crusty bits, do you leave the applied areas a certain period of time to soak in before applying the 4941? Or would you apply straight away?
Thanks.

Yes it's best to leave it a couple of hours if you have only treated a small area and lightly. If however you have lashed it on wholesale over a large area then I leave it at least a day 👍ACF-50 will be still active underneath Dinitrol for many months doing its thing... it's more about letting it go off a bit so that any top coat will not separate. E.g. If you have ever painted on a coat of something when the previous layer has not dried properly it is like that. It can slip down on vertical surfaces but only if applied really thickly which I tend to do...

Caterham wrote:

Zagato wrote:

Nice selection. Local LR's for a change. One of the 90's has only done 6500 miles I have done it from new


Click image to enlarge

Mr Zag - I hope you are well. Good to see you are keeping busy and doing a fantastic job with these motors.
just wondering if you might have any more pics of the two grey defenders above. I've been humming and arring for ages in respect of which LED's (clear lens or original) for my stornaway grey 110 (without privacy glass).
sorry

Caterham, mine's the AV reg one with original lenses (and the huge 6,500 miles ). Should be other photos in my gallery but do shout if you'd like any other photos.

PS Chris, thanks for the great service again

Quote:

Similar to Lanoguard with claims of stopping rust you are obviously not. You are just coating over corrosion. YOU HAVE TO ADDRESS THE CORROSION FIRST, it's no good just painting on a barrier. You are just trapping rot in and if you paint it on whilst wet you are trapping that moisture in also making it far worse than if you did nothing at all. There are no short cuts to correcting rust. You need to acid convert or stabilise rust etc first. No product disperses moisture, it soaks into metal, it NEEDS to dry first... they have got that from Waxoyl marketing. It's all been said before, many times. Sorry...