dainger wrote:

This is amazing! Originally written over 10 years ago yet finding it today had made my year! Great coverage. Thanks for writing.

Practical and real life feedback from forum members has contributed greatly to this thread from off-roading hacks to concours vehicles and despite the blanket marketing of new fad products falsely stating ease of use and stopping rust, most have the common sense to realise there are no short cuts to rust prevention (you have to be methodical, prep is everything, do one section at a time and yes it will be messy and dangerous to your lungs to use) and coupled with the use of tried and tested recommended products your vehicle can be kept in very good condition avoiding corrosion which can cost thousands to rectify or drop the value of your vehicle by 3-5K in some cases. It's better to prevent corrosion than try and rectify it, once rot has set in, in some cases it cannot be easily rectified. Forget your snorkels and wheels for the moment, get some rust prevention on it first, this guide will hopefully help you

Zagato wrote:

The pitfalls of Lanoguard is widely discussed over social media BUT the advertising still sucks people in. It's a bit like Buzzweld/Raptor products were 'the trendy thing' a year or so ago (Rock hard products trapping in rust underneath). Lanoguard is largely a glue (content specs on this thread a few pages back) over a time the thin layer of glue just bubbles, delaminates from the surface and leaves a rough mess that is a sod to get off. Not practical over a whole chassis. Lanoguard has been around for a while and isn,t effective for other uses it is advertised for such as putting on boat props to keep weed off. If you have a product you want to sell it in as many markets as possible of course.

dainger wrote:

So I had this sand blasted and re-sprayed 9 months ago and already the corrosion is coming back through.

Is this just to be expected? Any recommendations on how to fix / stop this getting worst?

Thanks.



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Crofter wrote:

Guys I have found this thread useful, so now I want to put it into practice.

I have a 2009 110 defender I have twice had it under sealed in it life with wax oil.
Basically I cleaned up the chassis and a local garage would do the spraying.
The guy who did the spraying is not longer with us, so I need to do it myself.

Would I be better sticking with Wax Oil or is the other stuff better?
I see they are available on EBay.

Thanks

Glad you have found the thread useful. You will have already read your answer... that the consensus is the other stuff is better and you have the source to obtain it. Good luck, cover up (especially your lungs with a proper mask) and blast away. You will find all the info from me and others repeatedly in this thread on what to use, how to use it and where to use it.

Zagato wrote:

dainger wrote:

So I had this sand blasted and re-sprayed 9 months ago and already the corrosion is coming back through.

Is this just to be expected? Any recommendations on how to fix / stop this getting worst?

Thanks.



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Sadly you will not be able to stop this corrosion which happens on the vast majority of later Defenders especially around the 14 plate age which seem to be particularly bad. It is a "metal"/"alloy" mix if you know what I mean in simple termsm, where corrosion would have started before the frame was even put on the vehicle. You can take the corrosion right back but it will come back through in no time. Have a look at other Defenders, most have already been resprayed and it's coming back through! ACF-50 will slow it down slightly but I say to most of my clients if you can source a NOS good one, hang onto it, it will be gold dust and hopefully somebody will produce better quality frames in time.

Scotm wrote:

If I wanted to put ACF50 under Dinitrol how long does it need to dry?