 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Corrosion Prevention Guide! |
 
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| Mossberg Member Since: 29 Feb 2020 Location: Lancs Posts: 553   
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Would Lanoguard work?
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11th Mar 2022 10:51pm |
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| Matt110 Member Since: 29 Jun 2014 Location: UK Posts: 685
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Was thinking that might be a bit temporary and not that "strong" a coating? Never used it before really.
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11th Mar 2022 10:59pm |
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11324
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Dinitrol 4010 Corroheat is both clear and very effective. Darren
110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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12th Mar 2022 7:57am |
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| Matt110 Member Since: 29 Jun 2014 Location: UK Posts: 685
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Cheers, for 20 quid a can that seems worth a shout if it saves the reservoir hoses and means they can be serviced in the future.
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13th Mar 2022 11:17am |
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| danoid Member Since: 28 Mar 2022 Location: Uk Posts: 1 |
Hello,
I was wondering if someone could advise me. First off I do not have a defender unfortunately, but have some rusting issues on a fiat 500. The rear beam is flakey and rusty, so reading on here it seems Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 or Dinitrol rc800 (which is best?) Then dinitrol 4941, can this be sprayed into a jug then painted on with a brush? I understand there’s other steps to do like wax the chassis inside, but I’ll be doing this on the drive and want to do it the lazy way as I’ll be on my back and car not that high in the air. My plan of action will be remove flakey stuff, use hydrate 80/dinitrol rc800, then spray/brush dinitrol 4941 and hopefully done. I’m guessing dinitrol 4941 dries to a hard finish and not something where it’ll remain tacky and transfer onto everything weeks later? Many thanks |
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28th Mar 2022 6:03pm |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5013
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Apologies, I did not see these posts;
Mossberg, use Dinitrol Corroheat clear, not Lanoguard; Danoid,use Dinitrol RC900 then 4941, is not tacky. E.g this is done in Corroheat clear.  Click image to enlarge This 4941. Click image to enlarge This is something different. Click image to enlarge |
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6th Apr 2022 8:23am |
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| Mossberg Member Since: 29 Feb 2020 Location: Lancs Posts: 553
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Hi Zagato,
Thanks for taking the time to reply. You recommend Dinatrol Corroheat over Lanoguard for that application and I wonder what you would recommend for the following; My chassis is 30 years old. It looks sort of OK appart from some areas (dumb irons, bulkhead outriggers, rear crossmember). Due to its age I want to be able to inspect it on a semi-regular basis and for that reason I have used Lanoguard. My thoughts on this are it is clear, thin, and hopefully removable via brake cleaner/thiners/acetone etc so I can weld where required. I know you probably never have to deal with a chassis in my condition, but your corrosion protection knowledge seems extensive, so your opinion would be very helpful - so for a chassis like mine that I want to be able to see the steel under the protective coating, would you recommend lano, corroheat, or something else? Also, the outriggers I have ready to fit are bare mild steel. The ones already on the truck have already been replaced at some stage and they already need replacing. I can't comment on the environment my truck has been used in before, but it seams the main culprit of rust is delaminating paint holding water against the steel. So with this in mind, do you have an opinion of whether to paint the steel or use corrosion protection directly to the steel? One final question. I am currently ready to fit a refurbished rear axle casing. I have removed rust via electrolysis, then phosphoric acid, jet washed, final wire brushing before degreasing then 2x Bonda Rust Primer and a top coat. What treatment would you recommend on thus? The old axle casing had suffered mainly around the spring and shock mounts, but in particular the bump stop plates (one flipped off when trying to clear the old mud from it). I was going to use the thick Lanoguard grease in these points, then normal Lanoguard over the main casing, but agai, your opinion and advice would be greatly received. Many thanks for your help. Mick PS - Zagato, your work looks fantastic. It seams you have transformed your work into an art-form! |
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14th Apr 2022 6:39am |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5013
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Hi Mick, sounds like your doing a thorough job
The pitfalls of Lanoguard is widely discussed over social media BUT the advertising still sucks people in. It's a bit like Buzzweld/Raptor products were 'the trendy thing' a year or so ago (Rock hard products trapping in rust underneath). Lanoguard is largely a glue (content specs on this thread a few pages back) over a time the thin layer of glue just bubbles, delaminates from the surface and leaves a rough mess that is a sod to get off. Not practical over a whole chassis. Lanoguard has been around for a while and isn,t effective for other uses it is advertised for such as putting on boat props to keep weed off. If you have a product you want to sell it in as many markets as possible of course. Dinitrol Corroheat as I have said repeatedly over the years on this thread is superb stuff, good for new cars, classics, etc where you want an effective, smart finish that you can see through which was one of your wants. It is opaque, see previous pictures as an example. Not sure regarding your axle if you need anything on top If you have already painted a top coat on it BUT if you think there maybe areas to protect, once again use Corroheat if you want to see underneath or 4941 matt black finish Dinitrol. Good luck 😉 |
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14th Apr 2022 10:10am |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5013
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Couple of rare beasts in
Mint Mazda RX7 (rare RHD version) Click image to enlarge Integrali Click image to enlarge |
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26th Apr 2022 6:50am |
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| JOW240725 Member Since: 04 May 2015 Location: Suffolk Posts: 7907 
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Love an Intergrale, my god father had one and it was SO quick!
James
MY2012 110 2.2TDCi XS SW Orkney Grey - http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic43410.html MY1990 110 200TDi SW beautifully faded Portofino Red - https://www.defender2.net/forum/post743641.html#743641 MY1984 90 V8 Slate Grey - https://www.defender2.net/forum/post744557.html#744557 Instagram @suffolk_rovers |
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26th Apr 2022 8:47am |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5013
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The Integrali was great fun
and good now it's all back together 
Something completely different in at the moment
Click image to enlarge And I shall really enjoy working on this over the next couple of weeks sensitive improvement, swapping rusty bits out, hand spraying/painting localised parts, getting paint off the galvanise bits etc. It has already been mechanically overhauled for a trip down through Portugal.
Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge |
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1st May 2022 7:47am |
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| Co1 Member Since: 19 Aug 2018 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 3683 
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Very nice indeed.
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1st May 2022 8:05am |
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| dainger Member Since: 08 Feb 2022 Location: Harpenden Posts: 67 
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This is amazing! Originally written over 10 years ago yet finding it today had made my year! Great coverage. Thanks for writing.
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4th May 2022 9:22pm |
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| MussEd Member Since: 20 Feb 2013 Location: East Lothian Posts: 354  
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Here’s a quick corrosion prevention question - what would people recommend to use on brand new door mirror arms to prevent paint flaking off again in a few months? (Don’t say the billet versions as I couldn’t talk myself into spending that much over a £10 item)
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4th May 2022 9:53pm |
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