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| Rashers Member Since: 21 Jun 2015 Location: Norfolk Posts: 3514   
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Come on James. Get it booked in
Nice update Chris. It’s always good to see what you are doing  |
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16th May 2021 9:42am |
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| Rashers Member Since: 21 Jun 2015 Location: Norfolk Posts: 3514
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I will second that bear100. Took mine from Norfolk to Chris couple of years back. Couldn’t of been happier with the service or results
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16th May 2021 4:34pm |
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| CarMan Member Since: 29 Nov 2010 Location: Cotswolds Posts: 1862
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+2 as I am very happy that Chris has done my two Pumas - one from <1k miles and the other had been used a little more at about 17k miles and he used a slightly different process on each after discussion and very happy with both - would use again even though it's a significant round trip for me
Rob
1993 200tdi 90 hard-top 1998 300tdi 90 soft-top 2016 2.2 XS 90 hard-top (sold) |
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16th May 2021 4:54pm |
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| Andy T Member Since: 25 Aug 2017 Location: Bucks Posts: 231 
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Yes I've just booked my 3rd one in with Chris. Wouldn't trust anyone else
 2011 2.4 White 110 CSW LHD
1998 300TDi Wolf TUM 2015 2.2 Corris Grey 90 2009 2.4 Alaska White 110 Commercial - gone 2006 TD5 Barolo Black 90 - gone 1995 TD5 Green 90 - gone 1984 2.25 Marine Blue 88 |
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16th May 2021 7:56pm |
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| L110CDL Member Since: 31 Oct 2015 Location: Devon Posts: 10784 
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[quote="Rashers"]Come on James. Get it booked in
I'm with Rashers on this one James  1996 Golf Blue 300Tdi 110 Pick up.
Keeper. Clayton. |
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17th May 2021 8:45pm |
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| balmybaldwin Member Since: 17 Apr 2021 Location: Surrey Posts: 192 
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Great to meet you earlier Chris, will be in touch shortly to book her in
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22nd Jul 2021 10:21pm |
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| BRUNEL1 Member Since: 22 Oct 2020 Location: North Somerset Posts: 54 
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I was about to buy some ACF-50 when I came across this test of it against various competitors done by Bennetts Bike. Worth a look:
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22nd Sep 2021 3:01pm |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5013
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Yes this old video does crop up from time to time, I am a biker so know Bennetts and the "journalist" from their review videos. Just come back riding in Scotland which is why this is a late reply, apologies. This is a test on blockers, ACF-50 is also a rust stabiliser for existing rust!!
Apart from this being a test done unscientifically in a blokes shed he is comparing ACF-50 and other products purely as a rust preventative blocker I.e. A simple barrier against water and worse salt. ACF-50 although it comes out well in the test actually stabilises existing corrosion for a year,(and that is the whole point for Defender owners)and it does this it could be argued better than acid converters e.g. Ku-rust, Fertan, Jenolite etc (these all have a similar ratio of acid 6-9% roughly in either a water based solution, glue epoxy solution or gel solution). As said so many times before acid converters only work if you get the rust off back to good metal, I.e. Every little rust worm etc. Acid converters do not soak into rust and on Defenders the rust in the welds, in between seams etc can be tricky to get at. Once the Acid convertor is dry it's done. With ACF-50 the rust is actively attacked and stabilised for a year and then it just REALLY slows any rust action down. So as a barrier against corrosion there maybe tougher products that will stick and stay on that have a different make up. ACF-50 is an active ingredient designed to block the action of electrolysis between two different "metal/alloy" types on planes. It was found it was really effective against stabilising corrosion also. I have put some on my old SAAB just the once and it has stabilised that rust completely and the clock continues to count on year seven when I did it. This however is under the bonnet and not open to the elements. I say to all my clients to spray ACF-50 in all the relevant places like under the rear tub cappings (those horizontal strips under the rear windows or panel if you have a hard top. Are your weld points rusting yet, most will be) at least once a year to stabilise any rust underneath unseen (they are bare metal, no primer even on assembly) your GT85, WD-50 etc will be pretty useless for this purpose. The test you see is relevant to bikers as a blocker but not Defender owners, you have Dinitrol etc for that, what you need to control is the rust that was on Defenders from new from the factory. ACF-50 is ideal for this 😉 As a biker who rides through winter, the best thing to do with ACF-50 is apply at least three layers, don't paint it on, plaster it on and allow a day inbetween each coat so it goes on thick and builds up. I don,t wash my bike every time I go out in the rain it's just not practical to do three or four times a week when I see my mates for morning coffee. The bike may look disgusting but underneath all that muck is a nice clean, shiny bike protected by ACF-50 😉 As an aside forget GT-85 it basically WD-40 with a tiny amount of silicone in it, horrible stuff, gets everywhere and stinks... it' cheap for a reason BETTER is FUCHs Pre Prep, 3 times the price but has a high silicon content so it lasts and is great to use and live with. A very good barrier for your bike 😉 FUCH's on your shiny bits and ACF-50 underneath where it doesn't show so much. |
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26th Sep 2021 4:00pm |
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| BRUNEL1 Member Since: 22 Oct 2020 Location: North Somerset Posts: 54
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Thank you for such a comprehensive and informed reply Chris, it’s much appreciated
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26th Sep 2021 4:57pm |
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| ForeignCartographer Member Since: 15 Jul 2021 Location: Scotland Posts: 13 
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Hi Chris,
Thanks for all the detailed info. When you rust-proof someones Landy, how many years is that good for? And do they just need to top up with ACF-50 once a year or so? Cheers Ben |
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3rd Oct 2021 5:19pm |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5013
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According to Dinitrol, as a very rough guide 4941 lasts between 2-4/5 years depending on use. This is similar to other products like Bilt Hamber. E.g. If you are wading a lot, going over thick scrub etc it will wear down quicker. It also depends on how rusty the vehicle was prior to use. The Defenders I have done from new and have just been used on the street are still good after 6 years. A couple of times a year on the body parts is fine for ACF-50 to answer your question.
I continue to read that some products like Raptor, some hard Buzzweld products etc stop rust, they don't, they just trap it in. I recently called one company that has a new high profile at the moment who insisted that there products stop rust, ( a trailer being painted with the product in the rain as an advert and say it stops rust. IT DOES NOT... of course it just stops rust coming through. It was designed as a rock hard covering for the rear of flat bed trucks!) The worse thing you can do is cover your vehicle in these rock hard products, they just trap it in and make it near impossible to re treat the rust in the future. I have seen corrosion brown staining coming through a Raptor product within 8 months of being treated by another VERY well known company who quoted £600 for the job but wouldn't let the vehicle go unless £1000 was paid because they said it need more work. No prep was done at all! If you Google enough the sharks are easily uncovered!! Just because they blanket advertise in magazines, social media etc and have glamorous websites, it does not represent professionalism but rather their desire to make money as quickly as possible and simply cover up the necessary work. It's a real shame as these products are ruining vehicles that could have survived many years with the proper work ethic and treatments. Apologies but so many people are being taken in by websites and a sales pitch. The truth is you cannot stop rust in seams, welds etc and nooks and crannies where you cannot get tools into which the Defender chassis has many of BUT if prepped and treated properly you can really effectively slow the corrosion down and importantly have access in the future to re treat particular areas as they won't be covered in a rock hard coating. Another curse that I am seeing a few of now is a thin clearish product, sprayed on in a patchy amateur way. I don,t want to say what is is but you may guess. It is advertised as being effective for a year and cost effective. The trouble is, it largely leaves a residue of glue that has a patchy rough surface with bubbling pockets behind and you cannot get this damn stuff off easily, it simply hinders future treatments. Sorry a real rant but there are so many corrupt people out their making easy money out of naive customers and the real shame is that they are wrecking vehicles in the process. They just don't care about the vehicles. Some happy pics to change the vibe these vehicles have the body parts protected not just the chassis, VERY important on a Defender!
Williams 190bhp!  Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Last edited by Zagato on 3rd Oct 2021 7:36pm. Edited 4 times in total |
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3rd Oct 2021 6:30pm |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5013
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Once again apologies for those I have not taken pictures of...
Click image to enlarge Getting them done from new is the real key to all this... Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge |
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3rd Oct 2021 6:41pm |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5013
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Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge And something electric 
Click image to enlarge |
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3rd Oct 2021 6:52pm |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5013
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Jimney anyone...in clear coat Dinitrol.
Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge I will take some pictures of the underside of the current Defender I am working on tomorrow 👍 |
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3rd Oct 2021 7:13pm |
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