 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > New swivel housing ball needed. |
 
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| keith Member Since: 15 Aug 2012 Location: Edinburgh Posts: 2196  
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Obviously the oil seal has failed. There is some pitting on the ball.
Does the ball need replaced or just the oil seal.  Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge |
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8th Mar 2022 9:38am |
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| donmacn Member Since: 07 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1841 
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If that’s as pitted ‘in the flesh’ as it looks in those pics, then I’d say yes - you need a new ball. Is it just the one side?
In the real short term, you can do a ‘field repair’ where you cut the old seal off, including the retaining plate. You then carefully cut the new ones. The rubber seal can be glued together once around the neck of the seal, and the wire retainer/strengthener can actually be ‘unwound’ (rather than cut) and ‘rewound’ and again, superglued. Reassemble and fill and off you go. However with a ball that pitted, it wouldn’t last long. Bite the bullet time I’m afraid. Edit - looked at the pics again and something occured to me. I take it, if you jack the wheel off the ground, grab it at 12 and 6 o clock and give it a good shake, that there’s no movement? If the swivel is loose on it’s bearings/pins then that could make it leak. Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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8th Mar 2022 9:47am |
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| keith Member Since: 15 Aug 2012 Location: Edinburgh Posts: 2196
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Yes indeed it is pitted but the dealer just had it apart replacing the CV joint and halfshaft. Guess what? It wasn’t leaking before the repair. The other side is clean and dry.
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8th Mar 2022 10:14am |
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| donmacn Member Since: 07 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1841
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That’s a b****r.
In which case, and having another look, where the leaking is focussed on the bottom of the ball, what I was saying about badly adjusted bearings might be more relevant. Maybe they’ve left out shims under the top pin, causing the whole thing to be loose? Bit of a tough one I know, but any mileage in making sure they fix the problem they caused? Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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8th Mar 2022 10:22am |
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| keith Member Since: 15 Aug 2012 Location: Edinburgh Posts: 2196
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👍
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8th Mar 2022 10:30am |
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| keith Member Since: 15 Aug 2012 Location: Edinburgh Posts: 2196
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I don’t have any issues replacing and repairing. Just a shame it wasn’t done when it was stripped out only a few weeks ago.
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8th Mar 2022 10:51am |
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| landy andy Member Since: 15 Feb 2009 Location: Ware, Herts Posts: 5592 
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Agree completely. I wouldn’t have gone near that without already having the replacement parts. Can only assume they didn’t want to upwelling, but will now cost you more.
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8th Mar 2022 12:23pm |
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| keith Member Since: 15 Aug 2012 Location: Edinburgh Posts: 2196
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Every trip into the dealer for a repair means coming out with another. Booked in next week.
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8th Mar 2022 7:29pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17248  
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Don't forget that it is unlikely that the dealer touched either the pins or the seal if all he did was remove and replace the halfshaft and CV joint. Once the stub axle is off, the CV and halfshaft just pull out, there is no need to touch the swivel or pins.
I am however extremely surprised (especially if it was a main dealer) that you didn't get the call to say that you need a new swivel ball, seal, pins, bearings etc, and that it will cost you a cool £2.5k for parts and labour. Dealers don't usually pass up that kind of opportunity. It definitely needs the ball and seal replaced, by the way, you won't stop that leaking. |
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8th Mar 2022 7:47pm |
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| keith Member Since: 15 Aug 2012 Location: Edinburgh Posts: 2196
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AWWCH. Thanks wolf you’ve just made me choke on my false teeth.
Eh! 2.5k for a swivel housing 
Better cancel the Easter hols then. Is that honestly the cost of new housing and bits. Jeeeeesh I’m in disbelief.  |
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8th Mar 2022 7:55pm |
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| Retroanaconda Member Since: 04 Jan 2012 Location: Scotland Posts: 2625
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Couple of hundred quid in parts and a morning of your time.
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8th Mar 2022 7:57pm |
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| Screbble Member Since: 26 Apr 2015 Location: Lancashire Posts: 2067 
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That looks to me as though the swivel pin bearing has failed. If you jack it up you’ll probably feel the play at 12 and 6 o’clock as stated above.
I hope the remedial work goes well and isn’t expensive - easy enough to tackle yourself. Is that a Gwyn Lewis Sumobar drag link I see? |
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8th Mar 2022 8:01pm |
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| keith Member Since: 15 Aug 2012 Location: Edinburgh Posts: 2196
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Eagle eyes Screbble. Yes all running gear is GL. Usually shiny stainless.
I’m on the hunt for a genuine kit if you keen to help the search  |
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8th Mar 2022 8:06pm |
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| Screbble Member Since: 26 Apr 2015 Location: Lancashire Posts: 2067
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Im also in the stainless GL steering gear club (with the poly boots!) and the Discovery drop arm conversion
That doesn’t help you - I bought my swivel kits off the Bay of E - Bearmach - about £160 ish (ABS version). Trouble was as part of ‘the job’ I then wanted to replace everything - discs, callipers, bolts, mud shields (don’t say it!), YRM stainless hardware etc. Too shiny to use now 
Hope all goes well |
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8th Mar 2022 8:18pm |
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