 | Home > My Defender > Puma to LT1/8L90 Restomod |
 
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| mrfirepro Member Since: 06 Nov 2020 Location: kent Posts: 230   
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With the engine in the forward position I was still looking at custom props as the TC was 60/65mm out of position.
It's an interesting question as I'm having props made anyway but I will check if the standard props now fit with the engine where it is now.... Good point.... |
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6th Aug 2021 2:19pm |
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| Linds Hanson Member Since: 16 Jan 2021 Location: Cornwall Posts: 485
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Its always good to get the engine as far back as possible rear prop length (or the lack of it) being the only downside. I think the main confusion starts with the Puma engine/trans position which is critical to fit the Puma dsah/tunnel the RW parts are mainly used on early pre Puma vehicles and NAS spec V8s
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9th Aug 2021 12:58pm |
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| mrfirepro Member Since: 06 Nov 2020 Location: kent Posts: 230
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Linds your right, one of the things Nick (RW's) has mentioned is that they don’t have Pumas in the states so it's a bit different.
When I was stripping the car I didn’t pay much attention to the dims however I've had the opportunity to take some measurements from a 2007 2.4 tdci. So this is now based an accurate comparisons. assumptions you are using 1. An Marsland adapter chassis 2. The RW's adapter 3. The RW's bolt on mounts Given the above the difference in TC position when compared to stock is 60mm further forward. With the LT1 using the Hooker headers the maximum the engine can be moved back is 90mm so that there is sufficient clearance between headers and bulkhead. Moving the engine back 90mm not surprisingly results in the TC being 30mm towards the rear from stock. The good news is that with a bit of jiggery pokery the hi/lo diff lock lever can remain in the stock position (I am making a mounting plate which bolts to the RW's adapter) relative to the trans tunnel with some minor mods in the linkages. Perhaps if I wasn't so hell bent on additional space at the front an alternative solution would be to move the engine back 60mm and have the TC in the stock position. I'm pleased with gaining extra clearance at the front and using the standard lever. I'm hoping I've not missed anything, and I guess time will tell if this all works out...fingers crossed... I've taken the engine out again and I'm going to measure the pin-to-pin dims just in case it will be of help to others. |
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11th Aug 2021 9:02pm |
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| mrfirepro Member Since: 06 Nov 2020 Location: kent Posts: 230
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Finally started looking like a vehicle again, got the bulkhead in and the new mounts welded in.
One of my mistakes when fitting the trial (bare) bulkhead was not allowing the blower box, it does fit with the 90mm engine move but by luck not judgement. Looking back at this it is looking like the 60mm move would be the optimum, this will only be known for sure if there is 30mm in the front to spare, will be interesting to see how this pans out. Some photos as normal  Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge workshop is it's usual tidy self...  |
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19th Aug 2021 1:29pm |
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| Co1 Member Since: 19 Aug 2018 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 3672 
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Great progress, you’ll be firing it up in a couple of days eh?!
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19th Aug 2021 6:10pm |
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| Linds Hanson Member Since: 16 Jan 2021 Location: Cornwall Posts: 485
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Yes the dreaded Puma blower and wing duct designed by a Ford HVAC designer in a basement office without any thought of future access or removal. One of the worse designed late Defender parts along with the air cleaner base. I still think your 90mm reversed mounting position is the best option for the major components even if it means a few mods to the blower/duct housings. And just think you will be able to take those hump back bridges full speed in the knowledge that you will land flat!!
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24th Aug 2021 8:46am |
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| Linds Hanson Member Since: 16 Jan 2021 Location: Cornwall Posts: 485
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Dont forget to put ram boots on those Foxes otherwise the plating quickly gets damaged by stone chips
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24th Aug 2021 8:51am |
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| mrfirepro Member Since: 06 Nov 2020 Location: kent Posts: 230
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Hi Linds, I don't think landing flat will be an option
 thanks for your point on the shock protectors.
I've been messing around with the blower duct and didn't pay much attention when I stripped it down. I can't see any way the duct physically connects to the blower unit, does it just sort of hang there with the foam seal????? On another note I'm looking ahead at doors and am considering renewing my doors and have looked at the SP panel doors, but I read they are difficult to deal with and I can see they are not very customer focused as they don't have a telephone number you can call them on. So my question.......... is there another company that does the same???? who I can actually phone and speak to... |
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26th Aug 2021 8:53am |
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| Linds Hanson Member Since: 16 Jan 2021 Location: Cornwall Posts: 485
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The intake duct is a horrible design basically being wedged between the wing intake and the blower motor housing. Its very difficult to remove with the blower and wing fitted. Dont fit any doors which arent Genuine Land Rover Puma spec. All the copy parts dont come close for fit and the Puma ones last well.
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26th Aug 2021 9:00am |
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| jonny Member Since: 10 Mar 2013 Location: North Wilts Posts: 149 |
It looks like you have the rear H shaped clip mounting the main body to the remote reservoir fitted to the fronts. Might just be for convenience at the moment to stop everything flapping around while there's nothing else to fix them to though! I fitted rubber shock boots to my Fox shocks and left the bottoms open to prevent water buildup, and coated them with clear WayOxl to try and protect the bodies a bit. Thinking about it now, I'd probably put clear heatshrink over the bodies, or wrap them with something like Helitape to prevent stone chips and subsequent corrosion of the (aluminium?) shock body.. |
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26th Aug 2021 9:40am |
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| mrfirepro Member Since: 06 Nov 2020 Location: kent Posts: 230
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Jonny,
I'm not at all happy with the arrangement of the front shocks, I have an option to send them back to Prolinx so they can fit a shorted hose and an elbow from the shock body similar to the arrangement on the rear. I'm going to wait until I get the inner wing installed as the remote res. are usually mounted on the inner wing. Your comments gave me an idea, I have some left over PPF here, Ideal for wrapping the shocks...good advice |
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26th Aug 2021 10:00am |
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| jonny Member Since: 10 Mar 2013 Location: North Wilts Posts: 149 |
I think most people notch the plastic strut top cover for the hose and mount them in the engine bay - assuming you got the same kit, there should be a metal cradle type arrangement that you can use to mount them. Mine are mounted to the inside edge of the wing under the wing top on both sides which tucks them away fairly neatly.
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26th Aug 2021 11:06am |
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| JOW240725 Member Since: 04 May 2015 Location: Suffolk Posts: 7905 
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This is looking great, it's going to be awesome!
Thanks for the updates!   James
MY2012 110 2.2TDCi XS SW Orkney Grey - http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic43410.html MY1990 110 200TDi SW beautifully faded Portofino Red - https://www.defender2.net/forum/post743641.html#743641 MY1984 90 V8 Slate Grey - https://www.defender2.net/forum/post744557.html#744557 Instagram @suffolk_rovers |
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26th Aug 2021 11:12am |
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| mcma1 Member Since: 16 Oct 2012 Location: Northern Ireland Posts: 2892 |
Going good Paul
Andy
2014 Fuji 110 SW LS3 https://www.defender2.net/forum/post751233.html#751233 2014 Corris 110 SW http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic40056.html My old Xtech 90 build.. http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic15681.html LS3 V8 build... http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic49051.html |
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26th Aug 2021 4:28pm |
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