 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Corrosion Prevention Guide! |
 
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| bodstruck Member Since: 09 May 2020 Location: Wiltshire Posts: 913  
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Mine would have been the gardeners truck in the Brooklands lineup
Some very nice shiny motors there Chris. |
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3rd Nov 2020 3:26pm |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5013
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Think your Land Rover is noble enough to be the pace car Simon, it,s about the only thing that can go on the Brooklands rough track these days
Couldn,t let this go out without a wash 
 Click image to enlarge Better now it is clean and another one in for next week... Click image to enlarge |
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10th Nov 2020 8:57pm |
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| Matt110 Member Since: 29 Jun 2014 Location: UK Posts: 680
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Could I ask some advice?
I have an 8274 - which having had blasted and recoated, and now rebuilt, after a year or so i'm getting corrosion on the brake ratchet. It looks terrible. I'm thinking of using acid rust converter fluid to convert the rust but then don't know how to a) remove the residue that's left, or b) what to protect it with afterwards to stop it doing it again. I really, REALLY don't want to have to take the thing apart to get the brake plate off it - it was a monumental pain to get together lol, therefore whatever I do would be good if it didnt mark the gloss coating I had applied. Corrosion is shown below, sorry not got a close up, it's got significantly worse since this summer shot. Click image to enlarge |
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7th Dec 2020 3:47pm |
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11324
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I suspect that some wire wool will remove the surface rust and then I can recommend Dinitrol Corroheat as a coating. It dries clear with a slightly waxy finish and is ideal for visible stuff like this. Darren
110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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7th Dec 2020 4:36pm |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5013
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Difficult to advise without seeing what needs doing properly. Acid concert then rattle can matching paint maybe or as LandRoverAnorak suggests, acid convert then Corroheat but it will show the black area where the rust has been converted as it is an opaque covering. A little touch up paint stick of lacquer would do the same of course
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7th Dec 2020 4:49pm |
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| Matt110 Member Since: 29 Jun 2014 Location: UK Posts: 680
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Have been out and taken a photo as the first one was abysmal for its purpose, apologies!
This is the issue. It's uncoated, but also functional as the brake ratchet. I don't mind topping the coating up every use if needed. Other thing is I've no idea how these are treated in New ones (mines a 1986 winch rebuilt and recoated). Click image to enlarge |
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15th Dec 2020 9:24pm |
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| WarPig Member Since: 04 Dec 2009 Location: Sheffield Posts: 1748  
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Is there a recommended product for applying to the underside of my new Erde trailer, just to protect from road dirt etc?
I'd like it to be clear, and not sure whether to use ACF50, Waxoyl or Bilt Hammer Dynax UC? Thanks. |
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8th Apr 2021 10:57am |
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| WarPig Member Since: 04 Dec 2009 Location: Sheffield Posts: 1748
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8th Apr 2021 10:57am |
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11324
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Dinitrol Corroheat is clear and easy to apply. Isn't the Erde galvanised though? Darren
110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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8th Apr 2021 11:07am |
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| WarPig Member Since: 04 Dec 2009 Location: Sheffield Posts: 1748
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I'm not entirely sure if its galv, their website doesn't say, though I think the axel is galv.
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8th Apr 2021 11:46am |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5013
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Dinitrol Corroheat as LandRoverAnorak says
2x aerosols is plenty for say a 6x4 trailer. Put on three thick layers and job done. You can do your wheels also, I did mine on a boat trailer as the wheels would get dunked up to the axles |
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8th Apr 2021 4:04pm |
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| WarPig Member Since: 04 Dec 2009 Location: Sheffield Posts: 1748
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I'll have a look at the Dinitrol.
Just confirmed the trailer is galv. Although it shouldn't need any protection, whilst it's brand new seems the ideal time to apply some. Would Dinitrol adhere to new galv? |
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8th Apr 2021 11:01pm |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5013
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Yes Corroheat will go straight on, no etch primer needed. Agree also about putting a coating over the galv. Galvanising is just putting on a sacrificial zinc layer (and not that thick in some cases), trapped mud can rot through the thin zinc layer in no time. By putting a barrier on top of the galv, it makes the structure pretty rot proof. It's why you should do the same with a new galv chassis. Damp mud sitting inside your box sections or on top of your chassis rails can rot through surprisingly quickly.
Similar to supposed red oxide paint, galvanising has had its day for many applications. With all the rock hard, impenetrable paints now on offer (not good on old rusty metal, fine on brand new metal) galvanising is an expensive process that is not the most environmentally friendly way of priming and protecting metal. It takes time for these old industrial processes to change... simply spraying paint is so much quicker. These rock hard paints came from the development of similar paint used years ago to go directly onto flat beds so you didn,t need to cut boards to put in the back of your truck for protection. |
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9th Apr 2021 6:42am |
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| WarPig Member Since: 04 Dec 2009 Location: Sheffield Posts: 1748
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Thats interesting to read Zag, thanks.
I'll order some Dinitrol, it seems to be about £25 (posted) per 500ml can. P.S I assume it's worth also applying to the load/floor area prior to fitting a sheet of rubber or ply? Thanks. |
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9th Apr 2021 5:23pm |
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