 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Corrosion Prevention Guide! |
 
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5013  
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Yes it would be better to cover the ML with 4941, it doesn't take much to wash it off
 it is designed to be thin so it can be sprayed and spread 360 degress in box sections where it is pretty much protected. If you are wading a vehicle you really have to re do the inner box sections every couple of years which you gives you some idea of its durability. |
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17th Aug 2020 11:33am |
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| Varyag Member Since: 16 Aug 2020 Location: Stockholm Posts: 3 
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Ah, that's a pretty good, illustrating example, thanks! The knowledge in the off-road community is very much applicable even for Saabs
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17th Aug 2020 12:53pm |
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| VVS210 Member Since: 12 Nov 2016 Location: Hampshire Posts: 953
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Dropped off this morning 👍 Nice to meet you, looking forward to seeing the photos & collecting it at the end of the week. Cheers. |
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17th Aug 2020 9:04pm |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5013
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Here she is Steve, now clean underneath
Trick question... which has more corrosion, a 2009 Earls Court Motor Show Super Car with very few miles or a 2004 Japanese Import Discovery which can gone around the clock?  Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge It's just astonishing! The Discovery is like new underneath. I get a lot of Japanese imports from a local specialist, Datsun, old Supras, Mitsubishi's etc. Never ceases to amaze me how rot free they are, not even surface rust and these things like Discoveries are rotting from only a few years old. |
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18th Aug 2020 7:38am |
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| VVS210 Member Since: 12 Nov 2016 Location: Hampshire Posts: 953
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Thanks Chris, look forward to seeing how good the chassis really is. The plan was always to buy something that had as good a chassis as I could find, looks like I have, even though it has the usual Dicovery water leaks that will need get onto once I have it back - sunroof drains & seals etc.
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18th Aug 2020 8:07am |
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| mk1collector Member Since: 17 Sep 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 6769  
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Although the rover thing was supposedly very fast/powerful it is a damn ugly thing!! Ray
My build thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic17615.html |
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18th Aug 2020 10:16am |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5843 
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After jet washing the chassis and leaving to dry.
After rubbing back/ grinding any rust, what do you degrease with prior to rust converting & spraying? Does RC900 go far per can and would you use a under coat before spraying Dinitrol? 1999 Defender TD5 110 Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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20th Aug 2020 1:22pm |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5013
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There are numerous degreasers on the market BUT for the DIY'er once you have ground back rust you will find you have taken any grease off as well. If you miss any grease and what is underneath is sound don,t worry as Dinitrol is epoxy based and will adhere to it and coat it with no problems, in fact grease/oil is your friend, you are just re coating it with a glue/oil based product anyway
BE VERY CAREFUL with RC900 acid convertor get a proper professional mask, even then you can damage your lungs with one lungful of it, your are breathing in acid mist, IT IS LETHAL. Tricky to say if it goes far! Think of a can full of acid liquid in glue, about the same as paint. Remember it is only effective if you get the vast majority of rust off, like all acid convertors, you really have to get it down to bare metal. More and more people are using ACF-50 instead for tight areas or box sections where you cannot get tools in. Have fun
The procedure once again is; Rub back rust Use an acid convertor like DInitrol RC900 or different ACF-50 which I highly recommend and prefer. Dinitrol 1000 to help the top coat adhere Dinitrol 4941 Underbody Dinitrol 447 Protect Super for high abrasion areas Dinitrol 1000 also for cavities with a 360 degree wand Dinitrol Corroheat if you want a clear coat. A Professional mask, paper masks are useless, you will damage your lungs breathing in this stuff especially the RC900, I cannot emphasis this enough. You may think you can get away with it the once but once is all it takes, not even professional masks like Moldex with all the relevant filters will stop it, you need an air fed mask. Cover yours eyes etc also of course. It can blow around in the air... |
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21st Aug 2020 9:37am |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5843
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Thanks Zagato. I didnt realise RC900 was so harsh.
Not sure it will be fun, but needs doing. 1999 Defender TD5 110 Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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21st Aug 2020 10:13am |
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| Ed Member Since: 17 Aug 2009 Location: UK Posts: 14 
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I have a 2007 Puma/TDCI , are there any good places in the UK for getting a good ole chassis under body etc treatment done? I don't have the space or confidence to do it properly but would take advice from anyone who has had it done somewhere commercial... It's getting to the point where I'm worrying about rust in places now. Some I can treat , others like the underside and rear member (more inside than out) I feel need a specialist/enthusiasts touch.
Thanks in advance Paul |
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22nd Aug 2020 10:29am |
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| Rashers Member Since: 21 Jun 2015 Location: Norfolk Posts: 3497 
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Zagato is your Man, Ed. It all depends where you live and how far you are prepared to travel.
I'm sure if you read back through this thread, you can see Zagato (Chris) is well respected, He did my 110 end of last year. I travelled from Norfolk to get him to do my truck. I was very happy. I think worrying about rust is a continual pastime for a Defender owner 
If it's any consolation, it is not something that I would take on, either. But respect to the people who do have a go |
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22nd Aug 2020 6:27pm |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5013
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Hi Paul, as Rashers says I can do it for you. I work on vehicles from all over the country. This Landmark came in from 'Montpelliers' Cheltenham this morning for instance. I will pm you the cost and details of all the work involved, including, body, engine bay etc etc. Most folks do not realise that the body is equally important as the chassis, especially for instance where it is just bare metal rotting away hidden underneath the rear body cappings, in between bulkhead to bonnet hinge (again just bare metal ten "spot" welded. I also seal the windows as per the water ingress guide, etc etc, I will send the list!
Click image to enlarge |
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23rd Aug 2020 12:27pm |
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| stick Member Since: 11 Mar 2018 Location: hants Posts: 6 
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Hi Zagato
I havent done 3 posts so can't pm you. I have a 2012 XS in Santorini Black that is a keeper. I bought it 3.5 years ago and it was waxoyled then but nothing since. There is some rust coming on the rear corner bar (photo attached, I dont know the name for the piece in question). The rear crossmember is starting to surface rust too. I would like to clean up the rust parts, and then treat the whole thing. Can you help?I am about an hour away the other side of Petersfield so I would probably drop it off one weekend and pick it up the next (SWMBO permitting). Click image to enlarge Kind regards George |
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27th Sep 2020 2:55pm |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5013
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Yes of course George. You can contact me on CCalvert@CCAutomotive.co.uk
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27th Sep 2020 6:08pm |
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