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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5013  
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Still open during these Coronavirus times as client contact is not necessary and I wear disposable boiler suits, gloves and a mask anyway
 I am doing more local work through local recommendations. This one is worth a picture... a 6700 mile Bowler  
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18th Apr 2020 1:48pm |
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| Rashers Member Since: 21 Jun 2015 Location: Norfolk Posts: 3496 
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That looks great
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18th Apr 2020 3:05pm |
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| Jiiim Member Since: 21 Jun 2016 Location: Ea Posts: 7 |
Hey all,
Just about to take the plunge on trying to do this myself.
I have a 2015 110, with a shocking amount of surface rust on the chassis for a 5 year old car. No pictures. Just too embarrassing! 
I've read the thread, and seen the varying suggestions for what to apply over the years. I'm currently thinking of the dinitrol kits, with ML3125 penetrating wax and 4941 black underbody wax. I did consider the kits with 447 black stone kit as well, but currently am thinking of just using 4941 everywhere, I think I read it can re-seal whereas the stone chip doesnt? Any thoughts? Am I mad to try this myself? I've already been under and washed out / dislodged an amazing amount of earth from underneath, so am finding all the nooks and crannies. I've also read this whole thread, and think I might have to do so again... |
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18th May 2020 10:14pm |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5013
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I always put 4941 on under any stone chip areas.
If you are using the rc900 acid convertor in an aerosol GET A PROFFESIONAL MASK otherwise you will be coughing phlegm up for three months! It is LETHAL. Just breathing a few breaths of it even with a professional mask on and your lungs will be damaged. I did this at the beginning of lock down and am still hacking and coughing, you have to have an air fed mask. The water based acid convertors are next to useless on a LandRover, better to use ACF-50! It keeps the rust at bay for longer. ACF-50 if using it wholesale will damage your lungs and of course so will the 4941, paper masks are useless. Have fun |
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21st May 2020 5:28am |
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| 90 Dreamer Member Since: 13 Jul 2019 Location: Oop North Posts: 2147 
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When you say acid convertor is that to treat rust??
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21st May 2020 6:09pm |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5013
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Yes, e.g. Fertan, Ku-rust, Etc they are all acid based which kills rust BUT only light surface rust. They are all about 8% acid content and either water based or epoxy based. They do work but you have to get the rust right off, right down to the tiny rust "worms". An example of this should be a few pages back. Don,t be fooled by products that say they stop rust, they only stop rust showing through like the RAptor products and POR-15. If not treated properly it will just be rotting worse underneath. There is even a guy on a video doing it in the rain on his trailer professing how good it is and that it will stop the rust
 The reality in most cases is that you can slow it right down and stabilise it for years. Check on it every four years or so... |
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23rd May 2020 10:38am |
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| 90 Dreamer Member Since: 13 Jul 2019 Location: Oop North Posts: 2147
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Cheers, do you have a recomend for DIY type use where people won't have access to a mask
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23rd May 2020 5:22pm |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5013
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You really need a proper mask for the Underbody Dinitrol but!!! Use a paint on water based stuff for the rust convertor and definitely not the aerosol but it is a near waste of time depending on how bad your chassis is. ACF-50 is more effective, most are turning to that and I use it now quite often.
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25th May 2020 2:18pm |
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| MarcusM Member Since: 29 Jan 2020 Location: Nottingham Posts: 101 
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This is a great thread - really helped me out thanks for all your knowledge Zagato- I’m working through protecting my car and have come across this... is this the tip of a bad rust iceberg?
Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Keswick green 2007 Defender 90 TD5 |
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26th May 2020 6:30am |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5013
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Tricky to say without proper investigation. Get a small screwdriver and carefully dig into the rearwards area, also have a look on the A post and bulkhead in the same area with the door open, you might be able to catch it in time. Always amazes me how quickly rust can take hold of LR metal and develop holes.... keeping my fingers crossed for you, hoping it is not inside out. It is not uncommon to go in this area...
Once again I would say, if only folks got them treated properly ASAP it would save so much cost and work in the near future. You have to treat them like classic cars, they have zero rust protection, the metal is bare for instance under the cappings (hence why you see the, rotting from only 5 years old in some cases, especially 90's with weld points to other areas that have absolutely no primer, just porous black paint, like the whole chassis, bumpers, etc etc. Get some one to do it properly or have a go yourself and it will stop you losing 3-4K on the value. Maybe a good time to have a go during these times and this time of year is perfect with the sun out...
I am still plodding on with some exciting projects. I have a very rare Porsche Targa coming in soon in mint condition as well as Defenders of course which I enjoy the most  |
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27th May 2020 3:52pm |
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| Mossberg Member Since: 29 Feb 2020 Location: Lancs Posts: 553 
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I have a 93 Defender which the bulkhead is showing signs of bubbling, so I need to look at this asap. I was originally thinking try to last out 2 - 3 years then do a chassis and bulkhead in galv, but after reading recent comments about the Shielder bulkhead issues I now wonder about the viability of that (which has made me panic a bit).
On the outside I can see the bubbling and can start to address that. I presume take back to bare material and hope that it does not turn out to be a total dog. Then repair as necessary. Regarding killing any rust before applying paint, I have some Aquasteel - is that any good? I then presume a good zinc rich primer before a good hard top coat. On the inside (quiver), do I just blast it wherever I can with ACF50? My order has just turned up today so I want to get on with it. What is best for applying it inside the bulkhead. I have bought the bottle and the small fillable spray, but what is best for getting deep inside? Is their a pressurised micro spray lance available? Thanks in advance for any help you can give. Mick |
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29th May 2020 12:01pm |
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| MarcusM Member Since: 29 Jan 2020 Location: Nottingham Posts: 101
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Hi Zagato- thanks for your detailed reply- I’ll do some investigations. I’m at the point of thinking about doing the whole chassis myself- at least giving it a go whilst it’s so sunny. Do you sell any of the products I need yourself as ready to get started! Keswick green 2007 Defender 90 TD5
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29th May 2020 12:22pm |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5013
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Apologies for short answers. Manic here at mo....
Mick, I have not used Aquasteel before, perhaps borrow/hire compressor, type suitable for spray paint only, won,t work otherwise! ACF-50 hand pump is rubbish. Marcus, Rejel.com is one supplier, have fun
This came in, sweet little Dellow 
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30th May 2020 3:38pm |
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| Ian80 Member Since: 06 Jun 2020 Location: cambridge Posts: 6
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Zagato, from reading your posts, it looks like you know a thing or two about rust protection.
if you dont mind me asking, how do you fine the dinitrol corroheat 4010? do you know if it drys to a hard finish, so dirt etc doesnt stick onto it? thanks ian |
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6th Jun 2020 8:54am |
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