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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11324  
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In principle, yes. Whilst there are pre-drilled holes in the cill rail, it would be simple enough to drill new ones for a different position. For the chassis brace, you drill the hole to suit anyway. The only obstacle is the bracket for the trailing arm, which would limit the position to either side of it. Darren
110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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26th Apr 2020 8:16am |
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| Badger110 Member Since: 06 Feb 2018 Location: South hams Posts: 1039 
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26th Apr 2020 8:27am |
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11324
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This has been covered in it's own separate thread but is included here for completeness.
Sooo, in a fit of lockdown boredom, I thought I'd experiment with the look of the front end. I bought a cheap set of aftermarket headlight surrounds (Allmakes), which come with a sort of stippled finish. However, as self-coloured surrounds have a tendancy to fade to grey, I thought I'd paint them satin black to match the grill. I sanded one back to smooth with a succession of finer emery papers to create a surface that could be painted. It was then primed with plastic primer and then two coats of regular grey primer and three of black satin, flatted back with fine emery paper between each coat. Finally, it was given a couple of coats of clear lacquer, which has produced what I hope will be a tough satin finish. I fitted one panel to see what it would look like and to gauge reaction:  Click image to enlarge With only a couple of dissenting voices  I prepped and painted the other side:
Click image to enlarge I'm very pleased with the result...until I get bored again  Darren
110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia Last edited by LandRoverAnorak on 1st Sep 2021 1:38pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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3rd May 2020 8:53am |
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11324
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Partly inspired by all of the lockdown projects on here and Instagram and partly as prep for something else in the near future, yesterday I cleaned and repainted my rear crossmember.
The starting point wasn't too bad, to be honest. There were a couple of very small surface rust patches on some of the edges but nothing significant. The paint had chipped off the galvanised grab handles though, so better prep needed for them next time! Click image to enlarge With everything masked off, I rubbed down those areas that warranted it. I was shocked but not surprised to discover just how thin the original paint was, with bare metal revealed by the lightest touch of sand paper 
Click image to enlarge The bare patches were treated to a coat of etch primer: Click image to enlarge Followed by a couple of coats of grey primer, with each flatted off with 800 and 1200 grit wet and dry: Click image to enlarge Three coats of satin black followed with the same treatment between coats, and then two coats of clear lacquer to finish it off: Click image to enlarge A very satisfying outcome 
Click image to enlarge Darren 110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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3rd May 2020 9:11am |
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11324
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Whilst prepping for painting the rear crossmember, I removed the six body to crossmember bolts beneath the rear door to make masking up easier. After the painting was finished, I decided to swap all ten of those bolts for stainless equivalents.
The original bolts are M8 x 25mm torx head with a largish washer. To replace them, I've used the same size stainless button head bolts together with a stainless washer and a matching nylon washer to go underneath. This is to isolate the stainless steel from the alloy body and prevent bimetallic corrosion: Click image to enlarge Each bolt was also given a coating of Duralac to aid with that isolation, although as they clearly screw into steel captive nuts, that's probably overkill: Click image to enlarge The finished result has a neat appearance and won't go rusty, which is nice 
Click image to enlarge Darren 110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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3rd May 2020 9:21am |
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| L110CDL Member Since: 31 Oct 2015 Location: Devon Posts: 10733 
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Click image to enlarge Loving that look Darren, much better ( imo ) 
Also liking the good work done on the rear cross member 1996 Golf Blue 300Tdi 110 Pick up.
Keeper. Clayton. |
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3rd May 2020 8:46pm |
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11324
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Thanks, Clayton
 Still lots to do but the better weather is helping. Darren
110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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4th May 2020 8:03am |
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11324
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Having gone to a lot of trouble to replace all of the fixtures on my new side steps with stainless equivalents, I also wanted to do what I could to protect the steps themselves from corrosion. To that end, I've sprayed them with Dinitrol 4010 Corroheat.
This product is really intended for use on things like engine blocks as it's designed to be high temperature resistant, but its' useful property for my side steps is that it's clear. This makes it ideal for coating finished surfaces such as the powder coating on the steps. It dries with a sort of waxy finish, which will be fine for this application. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Darren 110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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8th May 2020 3:24pm |
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11324
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A relatively easy mod today, to fit a new dog guard, although there was a bit of a saga to get this point.
When I bought my 110 it was fitted with a perfectly serviceable, genuine Land Rover, full height dog guard, which I promptly took out and sold. You see, I thought I had a better idea: some years ago on my previous TD5 station wagon, I built a bulkhead behind the rear seats and fitted a standard hardtop dog guard to it. I was really pleased with it as it was a very practical arrangement and I thought I’d replicate it on this Land Rover. That though, it turned out, was a mistake. I bought a suitable dog guard at Newbury some time ago and also bought a set of pre-Puma rear side trims. The latter were an experiment to see if I could free up some space as the standard Puma trims are very bulky, designed as they are to accommodate forward facing seats in the regular station wagon. However, the trims wouldn’t fit as the second row seat belt mounts are positioned differently, and the dog guard wouldn’t fit between the bulky Puma side trims so I was back to square one! I’m not that keen on the LR dog guard as it’s also quite bulky. Thick tubes, closely spaced mesh and a black finish make an already dark interior even worse. Casting around for an alternative, I came across the offering from Travall. This one is a lighter construction, both in materials and colour as it uses wider spaced mesh and is finished in grey. It’s also much cheaper directly from their website, which was a pleasant surprise 😊 Apart from the two mesh panels, the kit comprises six brackets, ten thumb turn bolts and a couple of Torx bits to undo existing fixings. Unfortunately, one of those was the wrong size but it was a good effort. Click image to enlarge Installation is quite straightforward. Firstly, two small brackets are installed under two existing fixings that secure the plastic trim around the rear seat floor locking mechanism. These fixings are the ones for which the wrong Torx bit was supplied. Click image to enlarge Two more brackets are bolted to the strengthening webs at the front of the rear tub. Again, these use existing fixings, where the second Torx bit is required: Click image to enlarge The final two brackets are installed beneath the ends of the high level grab handles, above and behind the seat backs. These also use existing fixings, which in this case are largish self-tappers. Whilst this works ok, next time I take the trims off (which is on the cards for another little project) I plan to install some rivnuts and use some pan head machine screws in this location. I’ve had these trims off several times already and the self-tappers aren’t as secure as they once were. Click image to enlarge With all of the brackets in place, installing the dog guard panels is quite easy, using the thumb turn bolts. I left the bracket fixings slightly loose until the panels were secure and then tightened them all up afterwards, which made lining everything up slightly easier. Click image to enlarge The finished article feels nice and strong and doesn’t seem to creak or rattle, which is a bonus. My only real criticism is that it’s positioned a bit further away from the rear seats than I would have liked. There’s probably in the region of 100mm clearance behind the head rests and quite a bit more behind the seat bases. Although not quite enough for my trolley jack in its’ case 
In due course, I’ll make some brackets to secure various stuff to the guard. In particular, I’m thinking of typical roadside kit such as triangle, wheel brace, chocks, etc. I’ll mount these on the front side, behind the seats, so that they’re easily accessible by tipping a seat forward rather than being buried in a box in the back. Darren 110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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12th May 2020 9:21pm |
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| Argee Member Since: 13 Nov 2017 Location: Suffolk Posts: 71 
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Nice truck.
I've got this dog guard in my 110 CSW - intrudes into the leg room for the rear forward facing seats so much in standard trim that it makes them unusable. It also requires the removal of the whole dog guard if you want to fold the middle row seats forward for more load space. My solution was to have a local engineering firm make me up a stainless steel up and over bulkhead bar to replace the upper part of the lower grill, using all the same fixing points (bar the underseat ones) but slotted at the two bottom body fixings. This allows enough adjustment to move the guard forward to meet the back of the middle row seats, leaving enough room for rear seat passengers. This set up also allows longer items to be carried with the middle row seats folded forward, without removing the dog guard. Seems to stiffen the body a bit too, less creaking on cornering. An added bonus is that with a few bits of bracketry I can use the now redundant bottom part of the guard as a load space shelf for bedding and clothes when we go camping
I'll get some pics later if anyone's interested. Rich |
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13th May 2020 12:33pm |
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11324
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Hi Rich,
Yeah, always interested in pics of different ideas. I obviously don't have to worry about rear seats in mine but having thought about it a bit, I may well adapt some of the brackets to alter its' position relative to the middle row seats slightly, just to make better use of the space behind them. Darren 110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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13th May 2020 1:30pm |
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| Argee Member Since: 13 Nov 2017 Location: Suffolk Posts: 71
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Photos as promised, on the drag because flat out at work, sorry.
Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge I lied about the slots at the bottom, that was the early plan A, the fabricator wasn't happy with that idea as he wanted to engineer it spot on. Nice to find someone who takes pride in their work. |
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15th May 2020 10:31am |
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11324
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Interesting, thank you. It's a sort of virtual bulkhead - the opposite of a bulkhead removal bar
Darren
110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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15th May 2020 11:57am |
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| Argee Member Since: 13 Nov 2017 Location: Suffolk Posts: 71
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Exactly!
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15th May 2020 4:29pm |
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