 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Another output shaft..... |
 
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| shropshiredefender Member Since: 05 Jun 2017 Location: Shropshire Posts: 834   
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I had mine done on shafts and flanges which had been lubricated well and showed little sign of wear. I've done it before on well worn components badly welded by me and replaced with new after around 1000 miles. |
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15th Aug 2018 12:35pm |
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| MK Member Since: 28 Aug 2008 Location: Santiago Posts: 2415  
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May I ask if the Ashcroft blue "cap" is made of Al or the like?
Thanks Puma 110" SW ............................................................. Earth first. Other planets later |
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15th Aug 2018 5:46pm |
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| shropshiredefender Member Since: 05 Jun 2017 Location: Shropshire Posts: 834
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It's steel
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15th Aug 2018 5:55pm |
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| MK Member Since: 28 Aug 2008 Location: Santiago Posts: 2415
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Thank you Puma 110" SW
............................................................. Earth first. Other planets later |
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15th Aug 2018 6:12pm |
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| DSC-off Member Since: 16 Oct 2014 Location: North East Posts: 1408  
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The screw on housing is aluminium. The blue anodising will be to reduce corrosion of dissimilar metals, when it's screwed onto the steel coupling. Earlier housings were bare aluminium, not anodised, suggesting there may have been some issues.
In page 9 of this thread, the picture from the LRO article shows the bare aluminium part. |
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15th Aug 2018 8:21pm |
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| zsd-puma Member Since: 09 Aug 2016 Location: Kent Posts: 2720
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the blur part is definitely aluminium.
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15th Aug 2018 8:47pm |
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| Joe the Plumber Member Since: 18 Dec 2013 Location: Midlands Posts: 907 
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I've been following this topic with interest as I've no doubt I'll be testing my aftermarket warranty with this problem eventually. There's certainly more overall transmission slop on my (27000 mile) 2014 110 van now than when it was new.
One vague thought I've had. Would motorcycle aerosol chain lube be any good on the splines prior to reassembly if not using the Ashcroft kit? It's really good at not being flung off (for obvious reasons) and is designed to work under high pressure in harsh environments. Having just found a bit of red dust under the cap of my nearside front hub, I've squirted a load in there (and onto the other three) in case it helps a bit. Straw-clutchingly yours... JtP. |
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16th Aug 2018 6:48pm |
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| Joe the Plumber Member Since: 18 Dec 2013 Location: Midlands Posts: 907
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As a further thought, in photo 18 of the magazine's fitting guide from the Ashcroft site, it says you must make sure to note the distance from the inner face of the old drive cup to the end of the shaft and make sure the new cup sits the same distance out.
Surely when you re-tighten the securing bolt, this will push the cup down onto the shaft as far as it can go until the bolt is tight. Or am I misunderstanding something here? |
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16th Aug 2018 6:56pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17383 
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I think that that is because the retaining bolt isn't strong enough to pull the female part of the coupling into place and you are likely to shear the flange on the bolt if you try.
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16th Aug 2018 9:41pm |
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| zsd-puma Member Since: 09 Aug 2016 Location: Kent Posts: 2720
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It might, but there are a whole number of thick sticky waterproof greases available. Thing it's expensive to try them to find out if they work. |
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16th Aug 2018 9:42pm |
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| Joe the Plumber Member Since: 18 Dec 2013 Location: Midlands Posts: 907
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Thanks chaps. As the retaining bolt is tightened to 133 ftlbs, I imagine it must be quite strong though?
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17th Aug 2018 6:01am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17383
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The retaining bolt has an integral washer-like flange, and there are plenty of instances of the flange breaking off the bolt if an attempt is made to use the bolt to pull the parts together.
The WSM instructs that the female part of the coupling should be preheated to 100 degrees to expand it marginally before fitting, when it should slide on relatively easily. There is no mention of this in the magazine article where I note that they simply belt it on with a drift, a great approach if you don't like your mainshaft bearings very much. A lot will depend on how good a fit the new part is on the back of the mainshaft, it may go on easily, or it may be a struggle. Similarly I note in the article that there is no mention of how they hold the mainshaft when removing the bolt in the first place. There is a (rather expensive) special tool for this, but most people seem to stick the box in gear and blast the nut out with an impact wrench. Again this doesn't seem to be a particularly good way to treat the gearbox, but it is clearly a widely-adopted technique. Finally, also not done in the pages of the comic, the job is much easier if you remove the bolts holding the extension housing to the back of the gearbox, since this allows much better access to the parts you're trying to renew. |
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17th Aug 2018 8:22am |
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| zsd-puma Member Since: 09 Aug 2016 Location: Kent Posts: 2720
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My guess with the cup is if it's not driven home properly and it hangs up, you could torque the bolt up and the thing isn't actually fully home. You drive a few hundred miles and the vibration frees it all up and you're in for a big repair bill.
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17th Aug 2018 8:24am |
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| zsd-puma Member Since: 09 Aug 2016 Location: Kent Posts: 2720
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It's probably no worse than the hammering it all gets from the slop in the drive train. |
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17th Aug 2018 8:27am |
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