 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Another output shaft..... |
 
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| DSC-off Member Since: 16 Oct 2014 Location: North East Posts: 1403   
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Yannis, Sorry to hear about your trouble.
Yours is yet another late model, low milage Defender failing in the typical 25 - 30k miles period. What is becoming more apparent is that the paste/protection, whatever it was, used on late models has no effect and shafts are still failing at the same ridiculously low life. This isn't really surprising, JLR couldn't be ar$ed to fix anything else, and the paint problems got steadily worse. They were just waiting for the old Defender to go away after 2012, then their problems would be over. http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic62521-60.html There's 2 choices, standard or Ashcroft. Standard will do the same again, absolutely no reason for it to last any longer than the first. I'm changing to Ashcroft at 22k. Fingers crossed for the next 4000 miles...  |
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8th Aug 2018 7:37pm |
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| agentmulder Member Since: 16 Apr 2016 Location: Outer Space Posts: 1324 
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VCV Fuel pipe breathers Wiper rack and boxes Rear mudflap mount Door hinge Master Cyl and pedal box Glow plug Injector clamp bolts and little bitty o-rings Accessory belt, various pulley bearings and tensioner Radiator EGR bypass and/or EGR + EGR cooler Indicator stalk  Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants... |
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9th Aug 2018 1:02am |
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| PAT303 Member Since: 25 Feb 2013 Location: Australia Posts: 125  
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Can I ask,does the Ashcrofts adapter use the clip or does the cover push the shaft into the cup?.
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9th Aug 2018 6:59am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17375 
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I think you'd be foolish to set off on a challenging expedition without checking what type of front diff you have and making sure that it is not the two-gear Rover type.
As far as I know the Ashcroft set-up still uses the spring ring to retain the parts, the screwed cap is designed purely to retain the oil in the coupling and prevent what would otherwise be a continual leak of gearbox oil. No doubt it would also stop the parts disengaging fully in the event that the spring ring failed to do its job, but I don't know what percentage engagement would remain. |
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9th Aug 2018 8:03am |
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| shropshiredefender Member Since: 05 Jun 2017 Location: Shropshire Posts: 834  
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Mine was well on the way out, it had been replaced sometime before I bought it at 40k miles and has since done 75k.
The replacement had been well greased but it was dry when removed (the grease was dried and in small balls)  Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge I had it replaced with an Ashcroft kit - well made and designed Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge The above and creating one piece rear half shafts Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge has eliminated backlash  |
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9th Aug 2018 1:18pm |
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| BenB8man Member Since: 22 Mar 2017 Location: Norfolk Posts: 429
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Good idea with the half shafts. Are there any downsides to doing it though? Surely LR would have designed it like that if its as simple as that? Are they not supposed to float?
Maybe I just expect too much from LR though, especially considering the easily solved issues that have become common faults so soon.  |
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9th Aug 2018 9:09pm |
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| Retroanaconda Member Since: 04 Jan 2012 Location: Scotland Posts: 2644 
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Pretty common ‘bush’ fix back in the day. I’ve read that they are prone to cracking around the inside once welded, so it’ll be interesting to see how it lasts.
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9th Aug 2018 9:18pm |
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| Yannis Member Since: 02 Feb 2015 Location: Oxfordshire / Milan Posts: 408 
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Just received my kit from Ashcroft.
It looks like the cup has been dropped and it’s damaged the anodising; Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge I will call them tomorrow and I hope they will send a replacement out straight away, but my Defender is currently stuck on the drive until this is fixed.... |
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14th Aug 2018 7:29pm |
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| BenB8man Member Since: 22 Mar 2017 Location: Norfolk Posts: 429
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Give them a call in the morning. Their customer service in my experience, is spot on.
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14th Aug 2018 7:49pm |
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| zsd-puma Member Since: 09 Aug 2016 Location: Kent Posts: 2720
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Late ones had one piece shafts from the factory, as did the Discovery's. |
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14th Aug 2018 9:16pm |
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| Grenadier Member Since: 23 Jul 2014 Location: The foot of Mont Blanc... Posts: 5808  
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I wonder whether any cracking that does appear would be to do with off road use stressing the weld, or in road use with the G's associated with high rotational speed. My DC is 95% Road use, do most normal cars have fixed or floating? Perhaps that would govern if it was a worthwhile upgrade to a road biased Def? Monsieur Le Grenadier I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list..... 2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey |
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15th Aug 2018 6:39am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17375
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No way would the wheels ever rotate fast enough for " the G's associated with high rotational speed" to be a factor. Any cracking of the weld would be due either to a poor weld in dissimilar alloys or due to the fact that the drive and retardation driveline loads are being taken by the weld not the splines (especially since the weld is likely to have been applied to well-worn splines). The concept of "floating" halfshafts is irrelevant - the only reasons for making them in two pieces is to facilitate manufacture, it is cheaper and easier to do than to make single piece shafts. Any resultant movement is undesirable since it inevitably increases wear. As such one piece shafts have advantages in all situations, not just certain situations. How many HGVs do you seem with two-piece halfshafts? If you took a set of brand new shafts and flanges, which were a good fit, and welded them with a really good full penetration weld (perhaps even J-prep or similar) I have little doubt that they'd be just as strong and durable as single piece shafts. A bush weld on a failed joint will never even come close. |
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15th Aug 2018 7:42am |
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| PAT303 Member Since: 25 Feb 2013 Location: Australia Posts: 125
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Why bother,your never going to see it again once fitted. |
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15th Aug 2018 10:14am |
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| PAT303 Member Since: 25 Feb 2013 Location: Australia Posts: 125
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Just a quick question,whats the best way to seal the bottom bolt in the transfer,I've used sealant and thread tap and the damn thing is still leaking.
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15th Aug 2018 10:16am |
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