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| JOW240725 Member Since: 04 May 2015 Location: Suffolk Posts: 7908   
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Look forest to seeing Jellybeans. Bumped in to him locally and it is quite a Defender! James
MY2012 110 2.2TDCi XS SW Orkney Grey - http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic43410.html MY1990 110 200TDi SW beautifully faded Portofino Red - https://www.defender2.net/forum/post743641.html#743641 MY1984 90 V8 Slate Grey - https://www.defender2.net/forum/post744557.html#744557 Instagram @suffolk_rovers |
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30th Mar 2018 5:32pm |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5013
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Check with Rejel.com as it depends which of the many products your are asking about available in aerosol form. If you are talking about 4941 underbody, LT cavity wax etc then the product will not go off as such BUT you will have to give the can a really good shake as the stuff congeals at the bottom of the can. I tried to use a can of three year old 3125 cavity wax that I found and gave up as it wouldn,t come out of the nozzle. If I heated it and shook it for about 15 minutes (as suggested by Rejel) it may have worked. The aerosols are usually a couple of months old already after being shipped from Germany and kept in storage.
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31st Mar 2018 12:51pm |
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| Sulisuli Member Since: 30 Oct 2016 Location: South west Posts: 4799 
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Thank you for the information
 2015 HT XS 90
2008 SVX 90 2000 XS TD5 90 |
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31st Mar 2018 8:52pm |
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| Danny Fireblade Member Since: 16 Mar 2018 Location: Hampshire Posts: 320 
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I have mine booked in with Chris for August. It will offer me peace of mind and hopefully extend the life of my 21 year old for a few years to come.
I have read the whole thread from start to finish, and I am very happy to pay the premium for the expert work and experience of Chris. Sod doing all that myself as I am sure I would end up with more on me that the chassis. |
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7th Apr 2018 10:49pm |
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| ssg Member Since: 01 Mar 2018 Location: North East Posts: 65
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Quick question, sorry if its been answered before. I couldnt find it with a search.
Can Dintrol be applied over existing Waxoyl? Waxoyl coating looks fairly recent and sound . Thanks for any advice / experiences. |
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17th Apr 2018 6:57pm |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5013
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Yes
apply 3125, ML or LT cavity wax first then 4941 underbody wax on top. |
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22nd Apr 2018 3:45pm |
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| ssg Member Since: 01 Mar 2018 Location: North East Posts: 65
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Thanks for the reply Zag. |
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22nd Apr 2018 3:52pm |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5013
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"Here is one I did earlier"
2012, 48k miles, VERY clean considering it,s used as intended. 
 Click image to enlarge |
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19th May 2018 8:42am |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5013
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Early morning pic time
 whilst having a coffee and a boiled egg the girls reluctantly let me have with just one peck this time  could be roast chicken for tea 
Click image to enlarge Three nice Landies in, the black 15 plate Bowler in particular which I did from new over three years ago is in remarkable condition considering it stands outside. Nothing around the windscreen (just luck with windscreens, 14 plates seem to be worse for some reason), windscreen false blocks are still like new, rear crossmember etc etc. What a difference when they are done from new especially not having been through salt. Brown staining is just coming through from the inner bottom lip of the rear crossmember where it rusts from new in between the seam where it is impossible to get any product in to treat. Thank god it was NOT Buzz treated with Raptor or similar  .ACF-50 will do the trick to keep it at bay with a protective Dinitrol layer which is why it is in and some top up areas. One of the best in the country, fastidious owner, ACF-50 is doing it,s stuff on the body areas.
Click image to enlarge |
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6th Jun 2018 8:40am |
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| JOW240725 Member Since: 04 May 2015 Location: Suffolk Posts: 7908
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I love the Bowler 90, they look so good! I see one locally, parked up in front of the most beautiful house, it's dreamy
 James
MY2012 110 2.2TDCi XS SW Orkney Grey - http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic43410.html MY1990 110 200TDi SW beautifully faded Portofino Red - https://www.defender2.net/forum/post743641.html#743641 MY1984 90 V8 Slate Grey - https://www.defender2.net/forum/post744557.html#744557 Instagram @suffolk_rovers |
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6th Jun 2018 3:13pm |
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| windy81 Member Since: 14 Mar 2018 Location: North Wales Posts: 311  
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Is there any reasons not to use Tetroseal clear wax ? Or rather is there a reason I should spend more on Dinitriol over the Tetroseal ?
I already have a lot of Tetroseal and it's cheap but if it's ineffective I'd rather not use it, especially as i intend to spray inside and outside of my chassis of my newly rebuilt Defender 90 which is effectively 0 miles i.e. no salt or any road grime. |Perfectly clean and perfect for this. Just want the treatment to be the best/longest lasting. Thanks |
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6th Jun 2018 5:20pm |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5013
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Hi Windy, if rebuilding a Landy it is best to galvanise then paint or Dinitrol etc the chassis before the build. The extra layer over the Galv is advisable as galvanising is a sacrificial zinc layer which can rot through pretty quickly where there are mud traps. A protective layer over the top will see it last us out
If you have alreay rebuilt your Defender then I would advise Dinitrol. Bilt Hamber remains tacky collecting dirt and the larger, longer aerosols are tricky to use in tight spaces, it is also hard to get the last 10% out of the can. Some Buzz products are rock hard just trapping rust in, they hide rust for a long time not stop it and it actually makes it worse. It,s a hell of a job getting Raptor off and I have seen rust stain through Raptor within 6 months Waxoyl is simply an oil, wax and white spirit mix that does not harm but is not that effective. It cracks, becomes cakey in time with repeated coats, slides down vertical surfaces and is not vibration proof so once you have slammed your door it needs retreating I have never used Tetroseal as I beleive it is the same or similar to Waxoyl. Technology moved on from that years ago. Better to use an epoxy based, bitchumen product that sticks on for good like Dinitrol 4941 and spreads further like Dinitrol LT. Dinitrol is not cheap however, the key to any rustproofing is keeping the rust at bay with acid convertors like Dinitrol RC900. Waxoyl and Tetrseal say it inhibits rust. Well that is becuase it just covers it... for a very limited time! There is little point in using Tetroseal then Dinitrol I would use one or the other. Depends on your budget, how many times you want to do it and ease of use. Dinitrol is nasty stuff to breath in, RC900 especially, no paper mask will stop that eating your lungs (I know  ) Dinitrol 4941 underbody is bad for your lungs from bitchumen basically and a nasty petroleum based propellant in the aerosol. Waxoyl is nicer on your health but harder to use having to keep it warm and then when you spray it on a vertical surface such as inside the chassis box sections, it mainly just slides down the sides leaving just a thin layer of white spirits and no protection. The wax then just dries out inside and cracks. Dinitrol and Bilt Hamber products don't do this. Dinitrol 4941 leaves a smart matt dry finish.
Perhaps use Dinitrol LT for the cavities, doors, box sections etc where it will be most effective and use up your free Tetroseal on the underside once rust has been treated, keep an eye on it and re-do when necessary. Once you have run out, Dinitrol will go over the remnants of Tetroseal. If you want to continue using a clear product then Dinitrol Corroheat is a good option. Bit long winded as usual but hope that helps |
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6th Jun 2018 7:35pm |
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| windy81 Member Since: 14 Mar 2018 Location: North Wales Posts: 311
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Thanks for that ! So Dinitriol it is then. If you were closer i'd get you to do it.
For completeness the Defender is newly built on a Richards chassis that has been etch primed and then epoxy primed then top coated with epoxy, so no hanging about ! Fully intend to pass this on in due course ! Anyway, Thanks again. |
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6th Jun 2018 9:47pm |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5013
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Can,t go wrong with a Galv Richards chassis, I painted mine also on my Series IIA rebuild over twenty years ago now
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7th Jun 2018 6:14am |
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