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Leaky 110



Member Since: 12 Jul 2016
Location: Glasgow
Posts: 62

Scotland 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Zermatt Silver
Excellent advice, thank you!

I picked up the large vehicle kit from rejel and was not intending to rust convert the metal on the outside of the chassis. Just wasn't sure if it was worth doing it on the inside prior to the cavity wax going in.

Now I've steam cleaned the car it looks like it's been treated before as the chassis is in great condition. Hopefully there's nothing rotting from the inside!
Post #553742 4th Aug 2016 6:49pm
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Andrew*Debbie



Member Since: 25 May 2016
Location: Anglesey
Posts: 95

United Kingdom 
Good advice, especially about the respirators. The paper masks that Rejel include with their PPE kit are not appropriate.


Is that a SAAB 95?
Post #553830 5th Aug 2016 8:59am
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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
Posts: 5006

United Kingdom 
SAAB 96, the 95 is the estate version Thumbs Up



Original Opal Green, 70k, one owner, my pride and joy, will never sell her...

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Post #553893 5th Aug 2016 4:34pm
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ADBS65



Member Since: 31 Aug 2015
Location: Wolverhampton
Posts: 15

England 
Having been on a weldathon since my last post here Sad I am now close to starting my POR15 chassis paint job, before applying the Dinitrol inside/over the chassis to supplement the POR. I will be cleaning with Marine clean, then treating with the POR zinc primer. My question is how long after I apply the primer do I wait before painting and how long could I leave it, as in prep this weekend, leave a week and paint next weekend, or do I need to paint with 48 hours for example?
Thanks in advance for advice
Andy
Post #553909 5th Aug 2016 5:32pm
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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
Posts: 5006

United Kingdom 
I used POR-15 on my Defender Andy but not with zinc primer so cannot help but it will have instructions on the tin surely for when it can be over painted. Are you correcting any rust first before applying the zinc primer? I didn,t find marine clean to be very effective...
Post #553998 6th Aug 2016 7:12am
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Clive



Member Since: 21 Mar 2014
Location: Littleborough
Posts: 467

United Kingdom 2004 Defender 90 Td5 X-Tech LE Zambezi Silver
My understanding is that POR15 is intended to used direct to clean or even slightly rusty metal, I've used it a number of times on various metal surfaces and found it's adhesion to be far better than most primers I've used, "sticks like Censored to a blanket" springs to mind Laughing
Post #554009 6th Aug 2016 8:51am
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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
Posts: 5006

United Kingdom 
This is going to get complicated, probably best to just read the instructions. Quite a few products under the heading of POR-15. The POR-15 original needs a keyed surface or correct primer and only covers, it does not treat rust but 'Clive' may not have wanted to treat the rust or may have been using another POR-15 product.

Easier to google the POR-15 products and how to use them Thumbs Up
Post #554029 6th Aug 2016 11:16am
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ADBS65



Member Since: 31 Aug 2015
Location: Wolverhampton
Posts: 15

England 
I will wire brush the whole chassis including the new steel (of which there is a lot 😞) and then jet wash, then Marine clean before the zinc prep treatment. The zinc stuff doesn't give an "apply within" time period, but does state it is needed to treat rust before using POR and that POR must be applied when everything is "bone dry!"
Post #554037 6th Aug 2016 11:49am
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Andrew*Debbie



Member Since: 25 May 2016
Location: Anglesey
Posts: 95

United Kingdom 
Leaky 110 wrote:
Excellent advice, thank you!

I picked up the large vehicle kit from rejel and was not intending to rust convert the metal on the outside of the chassis. Just wasn't sure if it was worth doing it on the inside prior to the cavity wax going in.

Now I've steam cleaned the car it looks like it's been treated before as the chassis is in great condition. Hopefully there's nothing rotting from the inside!



Dinitrol ML can be applied over rust. If you are using the 3125 cavity wax, you can spray ML first and then spray the 3125 on top of it.


I've only done this once so I'm far from an expert. I read this thread and then all of the data sheets. I used ML litre cans inside the chassis. I used 3125 on the doors because I can see there isn't any rust. 3125 is less likely to make a mess. ML shot from a litre can makes a fine mist that goes everywhere.

If you have access to a compressor, I recommend using the litre cans on the underbody and inside chassis. The rattle cans worked well on the doors and A-pillars.

Quote:

DINITROL ML3125 - old metal, penetrates through rust, contains high level of corrosion inhibitors


Quote:

DINITROL ML is designed for application into closed cavities such as doors, frame members and exterior joints and crevices. The product can be used for rust-proofing of second-hand cars, trucks, buses and other vehicles.


Quote:

Applications:
DINITROL 3125 will not crack, chip or peel and is designed for application to internal and exter- nal surfaces of cars, trucks and busses. The product is particularly suitable for use on old vehi- cles where corrosion is evident on e g the underbody. Severely attacked areas can be applied in combination with DINITROL ML.



https://dinitrol.co.uk/Products/RustPreventionWaxesandOils.aspx

https://dinitrol.co.uk/Portals/0/docs/DINITROL%20ML%20TDS.pdf



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Post #554041 6th Aug 2016 12:29pm
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Leaky 110



Member Since: 12 Jul 2016
Location: Glasgow
Posts: 62

Scotland 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Zermatt Silver
Thanks for taking the time to reply Smile

Rejel supplied me with the full guide today which makes the plan of attack a bit easier to follow. If the rain stays off I should have the wire brushing done and rust converter applied tomorrow. Chassis looks in really good nick, not bad for a 9 year old car.


Click image to enlarge
Post #554350 7th Aug 2016 10:25pm
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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
Posts: 5006

United Kingdom 
Careful with axle stands straight onto tarmac especially in very hot weather Shocked they can dig into the Tarmac and unbalance the whole thing. Sound concrete is much harder safer. Worse you never know how good the hardcore underneath is and it can be easy for an axle stand to sink down! only takes one stand to drop a little and the whole thing can slide over on to the ground.

Guy put a post up on another forum yesterday, the thing slipped off the front stands, the rear still had wheels on, he was just checking a leak which turned out to be split hose but now he needs a whole new pricey inter cooler, brackets etc from the damage. Luckily he wasn,t underneath it when it happened.... This post has prompted others describing their accidents with cars falling off stands and jacks Rolling Eyes

I would not get underneath your vehicle without chocking it up also.

It,s worth reading this advice and the injuries/deaths caused!

http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg434.pdf
Post #554412 8th Aug 2016 9:42am
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Zagato
Site Supporter


Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
Posts: 5006

United Kingdom 
Nice to meet Martin (creator of Def2) who dropped off his very nice red 90 last night for chassis and body rust prevention...



Can,t complain but stacking up here a bit with two 2002 Defenders and a SAAB waiting to be done plus two more Defenders in this weekend and a Toyota Supra next week. Makes a nice change working on other vehicles marques. I have a Morgan coming in also at some point... Got the woodworm spray ready for that one :wink:

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Post #554935 10th Aug 2016 8:33am
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Martin
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Member Since: 02 Apr 2007
Location: Hook Norton
Posts: 6571

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Montalcino Red
Nice to meet you Chris, look forward to seeing the results Thumbs Up  1988 90 Td5 NAS soft top
2015 D90 XS SW
Post #554979 10th Aug 2016 12:24pm
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Zagato
Site Supporter


Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
Posts: 5006

United Kingdom 
Body, engine bay all done Martin and underside properly cleaned. Whilst yours is drying over the next few days I have this old workhorse to keep me busy until next weeks workload all arrive tomorrow Shocked

200K miles on this ex recovery old girl and she will do many more, her owner can do all the mechanical work so she is in safe hands for her retirement...



Know very little about these apart from they rust, sequential turbo,s and 0-60 in 3.6 sec Shocked



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Post #555270 11th Aug 2016 11:46am
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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
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Very nice TD5, good conditon, original paint so amazing with a few add ons what you can do to make it look newer...



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Post #555700 13th Aug 2016 9:13am
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