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dunc



Member Since: 31 Dec 2015
Location: surrey
Posts: 132

United Kingdom 2016 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Corris Grey
Hi Chris

Great chatting tonight re corrosion prevention.

I can't PM you - please can you PM me or text me your email address.

Duncan
Post #488984 5th Jan 2016 9:12pm
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mcma1



Member Since: 16 Oct 2012
Location: Northern Ireland
Posts: 2891

Just ordered my Dinitrol kit from Flatdog...really looking forward to getting it all neat and tidy underneath. Andy

2014 Fuji 110 SW LS3
https://www.defender2.net/forum/post751233.html#751233

2014 Corris 110 SW
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic40056.html


My old Xtech 90 build..
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic15681.html

LS3 V8 build...
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic49051.html
Post #492161 14th Jan 2016 11:34am
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RRUK
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Member Since: 31 Mar 2010
Location: Leicestershire
Posts: 2025

United Kingdom 
Glad I did mine when I did before the onslaught of the wet weather and the cold.

I have used ACF-50 on various parts but what I don't get is, surely, it washes off if you wash the car and washed the parts that had it on, like that bare metal rear crossmember shown above?

Does it only stay on and active is you leave it completely alone, don't hose it, don't wash it etc?

Also, another observation about the Dinitrol stuff:

As per the instructions, I applied the cavity was in a fine mist over the outside of the chassis and axles etc first, apparently it aids adhesion of the underbody wax. I then applied the underbody wax, very liberally too (and still had a can left over in the kit but that's coz I had a 90 and not a 110 I guess).

Now, mine goes soft roading on shoots every weekend and gets very muddy, and I hose off the chassis, outriggers, rear crossmember etc the folllowing day. BUT, and this is the annoying thing, the Dinitrol wax seems to hold the colour of the mud, no matter how forceful you are with a jet wash, it's like the mud has stained it, and now it doesn't look as good underneath! Sad It's no longer black underneath.

I know this is being OCD and picky, and if mine only had road use it would look better, and that I should just relax in the knowledge that mine is protected inside and out, but I wish it looks as good now as it did when I first did it! Big Cry Big Cry 2016 D4 HSE

1998 110 TUM HS FFR Hard Top XD WOLF

1982 Series 3 SWB Petrol
Post #492283 14th Jan 2016 5:25pm
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adm2243



Member Since: 14 Jun 2015
Location: Mid Wales
Posts: 17

Wales 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Indus Silver
Hi Chris

Just want to say thank you for the great job that you did treating my 110 and taking the time to chat through the treatment options Smile
Post #492290 14th Jan 2016 5:37pm
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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
Posts: 5012

United Kingdom 
Nice to meet you Thumbs Up Don't forget to take your Series out for fun every now and then now you have your new Defender, it will get very jealous Crying or Very sad
Post #492329 14th Jan 2016 7:25pm
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Zagato
Site Supporter


Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
Posts: 5012

United Kingdom 
RRUK wrote:
Glad I did mine when I did before the onslaught of the wet weather and the cold.

I have used ACF-50 on various parts but what I don't get is, surely, it washes off if you wash the car and washed the parts that had it on, like that bare metal rear crossmember shown above?
it


ACF-50 Corrosion Block the pasty stuff in a tub used mostly in the marine industry will wash off if you do it thoroughly as it tends to remain pastey and not to dry so much but the liquid ACF-50 spray in the Aerosol or pump (Don,t get the pump it,s next to useless although cheaper, you need the aerosol with extension piece!) kind of sticks on and can get quite sticky initially the more layers you put on. One spray and wipe over for the rear crossmember is fine, it gives a nice gloss finish and doesn,t leave it sticky to get on your trousers. You would need to work at it to wash it off! If you get any over spray or drips wipe them off the day it happens otherwise it can take some washing, rubbing, polishing to get it off the next day! The majority of places you use it under cappings, bulkhead hinge, door hinges etc won,t be effected by washing but the rivets on a 110 could do with a quick touch up, you won,t wash the inside out but the surface could do with another dab after a wash and polish. Once ACF-50 is on it works for 8 months they claim but I recommend doing most parts at least twice a year and more regularly other parts like hinges, rivets, rear crossmember etc. It only takes a minute to spray or brush on every now and then.
Post #492338 14th Jan 2016 7:43pm
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mcma1



Member Since: 16 Oct 2012
Location: Northern Ireland
Posts: 2891

I would be annoyed too RRUK about the staining... You put real effort and ££ into your truck, they all look great after the treatment. Is this normal then?? I will be doing mine at my mates garage shortly but want to have as much info and advice gather up. Andy

2014 Fuji 110 SW LS3
https://www.defender2.net/forum/post751233.html#751233

2014 Corris 110 SW
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic40056.html


My old Xtech 90 build..
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic15681.html

LS3 V8 build...
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic49051.html
Post #492510 15th Jan 2016 9:15am
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miker



Member Since: 13 Sep 2015
Location: Surrey
Posts: 1762

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Rioja Red
I am in the process of pulling my engine out to replace it after it had a timing chain snap. I'm thinking it would be worth my while going over the exposed chassis metal while I have the access.

I had planned to buy the dinitrol aerosol kit anyway, but which bits should I use in the engine bay area on chassis legs and mounts? Will be cleaning up the bulkhead and general bay so far as I can too.

Might also go at the inside of the wings!
Post #493544 18th Jan 2016 12:09am
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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
Posts: 5012

United Kingdom 
"exposed chassis metal" "which bits should you use" for the latter, presume you are asking wether to use cavity or underbody wax. If you have bare metal I would personally paint it, eg POR 15 primer and top coat or any chassis black or any suitable paint you have knocking about then put underbody wax 4941 on top if the rest is going to be done.

Cavity Wax 3125 for cavities, as runnier and stickier
Underbody Wax 4941 for outside, harder stuff

Don,t forget to do your cappings, bulkhead hinge, etc etc with ACF-50 as they have bare metal surfaces, equally important as chassis! Can use ACF-50 also for any areas you want to keep smart that you don't want to be plastered in Dinitrol, under bonnet areas, brackets, bulkhead top etc
Post #493594 18th Jan 2016 9:42am
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miker



Member Since: 13 Sep 2015
Location: Surrey
Posts: 1762

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Rioja Red
When I say exposed, I mean without an engine in the way! My plan was to get rid of the loose original paint and surface rust then go over with whatever product is best. I'll get a can of por15 as well as a dinitrol kit in that case!!
Post #493606 18th Jan 2016 10:08am
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miker



Member Since: 13 Sep 2015
Location: Surrey
Posts: 1762

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Rioja Red
As I'll be ordering from rejel anyway, is this any good?
http://www.rejel.com/rejel-store/mio-chass...io-25.aspx

Colour's not an issue as I'll be going over it with black wax anyway!

Cheers for the advice!
Post #493804 18th Jan 2016 6:56pm
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mcma1



Member Since: 16 Oct 2012
Location: Northern Ireland
Posts: 2891

Check list:

This is what i currently have:

4 Dinitrol Cavity Wax
8 Dinitrol Surface Wax
Tin of Dinitrol Surface cleaner
ACF-50

Is there anything else i need, have i got enough?? Its for a 110. I am also planning to upgrade my suspension, anti roll bars, with the twisted progressive kit so thinking it would make more sense to get this all done and then fit the new kit... would it then be better to drop the old suspension parts being replaced out before we start? Treat any loose parts we can off the truck??


Click image to enlarge


Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated Mr. Green  Andy

2014 Fuji 110 SW LS3
https://www.defender2.net/forum/post751233.html#751233

2014 Corris 110 SW
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic40056.html


My old Xtech 90 build..
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic15681.html

LS3 V8 build...
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic49051.html
Post #493812 18th Jan 2016 7:21pm
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DevonLass



Member Since: 24 Jan 2016
Location: Paignton
Posts: 3

England 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Fuji White
I'd be really interested to know how you got on with this @mcma1 - I'm considering a DIY job on my 90.
Post #495861 24th Jan 2016 5:30pm
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Zagato
Site Supporter


Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
Posts: 5012

United Kingdom 
Don,t forget the Dinitrol convorust rc900 rust convertor or equivalent for a compressor. Even new Defender chassis have rust mainly on the weld seams, needs to be done before you put the wax on otherwise you are just sealing in rust!

ACF-50 is for the body especially for bare metal bits under cappings, bulkhead hinge etc DON'T put it on the chassis apart from rear crossmember as it is petroleum based and Dinitrol is solvent based and your Dinitrol won,t go properly or harden!

Also Don't forget to seal your windows etc as per the Land Rover water ingress guide, water sitting behind your window seals can rot holes through in under 5 years I have seen. Good luck Thumbs Up
Post #496045 25th Jan 2016 7:33am
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RichLech



Member Since: 09 Nov 2015
Location: West Sussex
Posts: 115

United Kingdom 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Keswick Green
Planning to Dinitrol my 2012 Defender 90
As the title says I am planning to Dinitrol my recently acquired 90. I've read through this amazingly helpful topic but I do still have a couple of questions........

Regarding the application, how temperature sensitive is Dinitrol ? In the past I have used Waxoyl and struggled to apply in anything but warm weather. Does Dinitrol go on OK in the sort of warmish winter weather we are currently experiencing?

I note the kits from Rejel contain Stone Chip and Underbody Wax. What is the advantage of Stone Chip over Underbody Wax. I note the Stone Chip does not "self-heal" so isn't the Underbody Wax better?

Any advice much appreciated.
Post #496811 26th Jan 2016 8:41pm
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