 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Corrosion Prevention Guide! |
 
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| m33ufo Member Since: 19 Jan 2008 Location: Cardiff Posts: 1150  
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Defender doesn't arrive until March but yes, happy to take some pics.
You may well be right  |
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23rd Oct 2015 11:24am |
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| randjafloat Member Since: 13 Oct 2015 Location: Hampshire Posts: 9  
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Hi Everyone
We have the fun of picking up a new 110 SW in January as a "keeper" and so the expert input on corrosion protection is a great help - thanks!! One question - several people talk about using ACF-50 for hinges etc etc. We have used corrosion block (from the same people, see http://www.acf-50.co.uk/automotive.htm) in the marine world for a while and are very happy with it. The suppliers mention it for automotive use too (comments about better adhesion / salt spray resistance) and so we wanted to check and see if there is a reason for using ACF-50 in preference to this. Sure there must be but wanted to check before we ordered the ACF stuff! Thanks for your advice |
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7th Nov 2015 4:56pm |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5012
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From talking to bikers ACF-50 has been used in the motorbike world for over 20 years and has krept slightly into the classic car scene but few still know about it. The Corrosion Block has been used in the marine industry for a while and I also ise it on my boat as a pot was left on my old yacht (the grease type that comes in a pot). The details of what this does in liquid form is the same as ACF-50 so I would guess that it is the same or very similar, I don,t have the time this evening to compare the contents of each type. If you have the corrosion block in spray liquid form from what it says on their website it looks suitable if not the same!!
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7th Nov 2015 9:25pm |
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| Leviathan Member Since: 24 Oct 2015 Location: Staffs Posts: 248
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Hi all from a newbie
After getting my first Defender and reading this thread I thought this should be my first task. Ive posted some pictures below of my 2008 DCPU to illustrate what they look like if untouched since leaving the factory. Firstly my car has never been off road but this is half of the soil that I removed from the various traps underneath.  Click image to enlarge After power washing this is the general state of corrosion.  Click image to enlarge And another  Click image to enlarge More  Click image to enlarge I will be attacking the rust with Fertan and applying my prefered option of Bilt Hamber. I will post some updates for those interested. Cheers Nick |
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8th Nov 2015 12:08pm |
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| X4SKP Member Since: 29 Nov 2013 Location: Berkshire Posts: 2295 
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Hello Leviathan
Welcome to the 'Go 2' Tread for Corrosion Prevention on D2N... 
It's a good feeling when done...so good luck...
 Click image to enlarge SKIP https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html |
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8th Nov 2015 12:32pm |
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| RRUK Site Supporter Member Since: 31 Mar 2010 Location: Leicestershire Posts: 2025
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This is my write up on the method I used, having read the forum a lot, and attacking it myself, hope it helps some of you.
++++++++++ OK, this is not a quick job to do, I spent an entire weekend doing it (not inc the prep) and having done it with Waxoyl on my TD5 I knew some of the pain I'd have to endure. This time I wanted to do it properly. Timing was crucial. I had pressure washed every nook and cranny, flushed it out and air blasted all the chassis and it had been able to dry thoroughly for 2 weeks. We had a dry weekend so I knew it was time to get on with it. Here's the kit I bought to do it: Dinitrol kit from Rejel (compressor version) A can of ACF-50 throwaway coveralls x 2 disposable latex gloves full face protection Breathing masks shower cap (you don't want this stuff in your hair) You'll also need: 4 x Axle stands - I bought another pair of 3 tonne ones from Halfords for £17.50 and they're great A tarp and/or plastic sheeting (I had an old tarp and also put thick polythene from a mattress that was delivered) plastic bags Tin foil Masking tape Masking paper Paper towels White spritis A decent jack A compressor (I got mine from Aldi) So, here's how to do it at home (and apologies to Zag as I'm sure you do a much more thorough job). First I removed the wheels and jacked it onto the axle stands after laying out the plastic sheeting - TRUST ME - you will need this. Click image to enlarge Once up in the air I crawled underneath and poked around with a screwdriver and low and behold, found even MORE dried mud up inside the door pillar area, so cleaned this out. I half filled a bucket with all the rubbish I got out of it again. More blowing out with the air gun. Click image to enlarge Whilst the wheels were off I turned the steering full lock each way so that I could take the opportunity to top up the swivels with one shot grease. Surprisingly each one took three quarters of a pouch. It's an easy job with a 1/2" socket. I advise you to check yours. Here you can see the filler plug in plain view. Click image to enlarge Next I started masking the car up. I didn't do this last time, but having watched a video on Youtube on how the Pro's do it, I decided to give it a whirl and am VERY thankful I did. I put masking paper along the paintwork and also wrapped the axle stands, brake discs, flexible brake pipes, exhaust system and side steps. I am so pleased I made this effort. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge First I sprayed any signs of surface rust with the rust converter spray in the kit. The fine mist of the Dinitrol cavity wax gets everywhere, so the masking was worth it. The instructions say to prime the outer chassis with this stuff first as it aids adhesion. You obviously also use this to spray inside the chassis box sections etc. I used the extension tube to get inside the bulkhead via the blanked wiper holes, door top hinges and the door switch hole inside the cabin, until it was dripping out of all the places you'd expect it to. Whilst the top hinges were undone I also ACF'd the captive nuts (which looked like new) and replaced the bolts with stainless steel ones (also sprayed in ACF50). Once the chassis is primed, you can apply the under chassis wax whilst still wet. This stuff needs 6PSI to spray properly and is nice and thick when it goes on, I coated everywhere in it, especially the areas that are prone to corrosion such as footwells, outriggers, rear X member etc. Axles also got a nice coating but steered clear of the propshaft to avoid balance issues. Click image to enlarge After doing the wax, I then used the stone chip on the wheel arch areas. The instructions say not to spray the stone chip over the wax or vice versa (so I didn't). In the front wheel arches there are numerous holes in the plastic moulding, so I blanked these in with aluminium tape prior to spraying, to avoid lots of overspray in the engine bay. I won't detail every single part and step I went through, but let's just say I was extremely thorough. The end results looks good and it doesn't stink like Waxoyl. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Top Tips: You cannot prepare enough - it seems a pain but is SO worth it. The more protection you wear the better, you will get filthy, throw away coveralls, gloves etc are going to save your workshop gear. The full face visor I got from Toolstation was great, as it doesn't fog up like goggles. The tarp on its own would have been useless as they have a weave, try calling a local bed supplier and asking if they have any mattress covers, the thickness is perfect. Put the axles stand inside a plastic bag or bin bag before setting them under the car, or they get waxed. Wrap the exhaust in foil front to back, its easy to do and effective, easy to remove. It's an easy enough job to do yourself at home on the driveway, but you need to do your prep work. The end result though is the personal satisfaction and peace of mind that the underside is fully protected for years and years to come. Shame no one else gets to see the end result!  2016 D4 HSE
1998 110 TUM HS FFR Hard Top XD WOLF 1982 Series 3 SWB Petrol |
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9th Nov 2015 3:40pm |
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| Didster Member Since: 05 May 2015 Location: South East Posts: 62 
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Got my Autobiography back from its mild fettling
 at Bowler today and it's off down to Zagato tomorrow for the full treatment. Then it'll be time to put some miles on it! Various... |
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1st Dec 2015 7:23pm |
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| JOW240725 Member Since: 04 May 2015 Location: Suffolk Posts: 7904 
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Didster.... you can't just put some minor fettling, we want some detail and photos please...
Do you have your own thread? |
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2nd Dec 2015 11:04am |
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| Venomator Member Since: 25 Aug 2014 Location: Peterborough Posts: 2087
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Reckon he does JOW...
Check out Didster's 'My Defender' thread > HERE ...  Rog...
The GREEN One... MY2016 Urban Truck Build Thread - http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic40548....al[/color] |
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2nd Dec 2015 12:02pm |
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| JOW240725 Member Since: 04 May 2015 Location: Suffolk Posts: 7904
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Thank you Venomator, one day I'll learn how to use this forum properly!
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2nd Dec 2015 12:09pm |
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| Happyoldgit Member Since: 14 Sep 2007 Location: Norfolk Posts: 3471 
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Amen to that - good post BTW Steve.
Owned numerous Land Rover vehicles of all shapes and sizes over the decades. Current Defender: A non tarts hand-bagged Puma 110 XS USW. [Insert something impressive here such as extensive list of previous Land Rovers or examples of your prestigeous and expensive items, trinkets, houses, bikes, vehicles etc] http://forums.lr4x4.com I used to be Miserable ...but now I'm ecstatic. |
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2nd Dec 2015 12:28pm |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5012
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Second that
We are all on Weald clay around here with some very dodgy Tarmac drives so I would always have a secondary support as well as axle stands. One of my clients driveways was done last year, rip off job with holes cracks appearing already as the hard core underneath wasn't done properly. You can stomp your feet down to make an uneven surface and cracks  |
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2nd Dec 2015 1:26pm |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5842 
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Once you have given the chassis a good old Dinitroling, how do you clean off the mud that has stuck to the chassis once you've been out for a play?
Gave my chassis a coating a few months ago and after a trip through Welsh forests the chassis has mud stuck to the Dinitrol. Tried washing off but most of it still there. 1999 Defender TD5 110 Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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2nd Dec 2015 1:37pm |
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| RRUK Site Supporter Member Since: 31 Mar 2010 Location: Leicestershire Posts: 2025
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I just use a jet wash. Remember, it will never look as good and black and lovely as when its first done, until you recoat. As long as you are getting the clumps of mud off and out of the nooks and crannies, and of course washing off road salt etc, its fine. 2016 D4 HSE
1998 110 TUM HS FFR Hard Top XD WOLF 1982 Series 3 SWB Petrol |
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2nd Dec 2015 2:31pm |
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