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| RRUK Site Supporter Member Since: 31 Mar 2010 Location: Leicestershire Posts: 2025  
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Zag, we are in agreement but maybe some misunderstanding.
What I meant was the instructions say not to spray stone chip ontop of the black thick wax, not the cavity wax. 2016 D4 HSE 1998 110 TUM HS FFR Hard Top XD WOLF 1982 Series 3 SWB Petrol |
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7th Oct 2015 1:26pm |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5012
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7th Oct 2015 2:50pm |
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| CDN38 Member Since: 14 Nov 2014 Location: Courtenay, BC Posts: 729  
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Instructions?? My kit's never came with instructions....any chance you could post them here?
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7th Oct 2015 3:40pm |
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| RRUK Site Supporter Member Since: 31 Mar 2010 Location: Leicestershire Posts: 2025
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I can, just not right now as I'm away for work till the weekend in Barcelona.
There were no pictures, just words. Maybe someone else has the ability to do this in the meanwhile? 2016 D4 HSE 1998 110 TUM HS FFR Hard Top XD WOLF 1982 Series 3 SWB Petrol |
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7th Oct 2015 5:00pm |
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| CDN38 Member Since: 14 Nov 2014 Location: Courtenay, BC Posts: 729
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Actually Rejel got back to me right away with a full set of instructions.
Guidance for wax application process 1. Steam clean vehicle and allow to dry - Mask up any areas that you do not want to spray, such as exhaust, brakes, electrics or radiator - Wear protective clothing (SE02 on Rejel website). - Place plastic floor covering under the vehicle as the cavity wax may drip. (YLF200). 2. Treat any rust present with DINRC800 or DINRC900 - Remove any flaking rust and apply the rust convertor to the remaining rust making sure the edges are coated to ensure a good seal. 3A. Spray cavity wax into all box sections and doors using an injection pipe or extension nozzle. Injection pipes or lances are for cavity wax only, not for applying underbody waxes. 3B. Also apply a thin coat to the underside of the vehicle. Spraying a thin coat of cavity wax prior to applying the underbody wax softens up any existing coating that may be present and helps with the adhesion of the underbody or stone chip wax. Cavity wax also contains rust inhibitors whilst the underbody wax combats road salt and abrasion. 4. Apply the underbody wax over the thin coat of cavity wax, this can be done while still wet. In some circumstances it may be necessary to warm the underbody wax prior to spraying as it is much thicker than the cavity wax. To obtain the optimum protection a typical thickness of 700 microns wet to dry to around 500 microns should be applied. Depth gauge DINE17127. As the wax is solvent based you must ensure air flow around the vehicle to allow the solvents to evaporate. The thicker the application the longer it takes to dry. This should be touch dry in 6-12 hours and if you press your thumb onto the wax it should leave a print in the wax but not come off onto your thumb. Underbody wax shows self-healing properties and skins over when dry but remains soft underneath allowing it re-seal. It adheres to both painted surfaces and those with a layer of PVC or similar material, it will not harm rubber or plastics. 5. If using stone chip then step 3b still applies prior to application. Remember you cannot apply stone chip over underbody nor the other way round. We recommend stone chip in areas of high abrasion such as wheel arches and off road vehicles. For normal wear and tear use underbody wax. Stone chip is hard wearing but does not re-seal. 6. To clean excess or overspray and to clean equipment use Dinitrol auto cleaner 7225 or other Benzene based spirit. 7. Retreat the cavity every 5 years and inspect the underbody annually and touch in where necessary. 8. For engine compartment you can use DIN4010 clear wax. This will withstand temperatures up to 200c and dries hard. |
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7th Oct 2015 5:10pm |
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| DG123 Member Since: 29 Aug 2015 Location: North West Posts: 133 
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Great timing CDN38. Am about 1/4 way through treating my 3 year old 110 and just received the kit from Rejel - had the same questions.
The original post by Zagato (many thanks!) and all the supporting comments gave me the confidence to have a go at this myself. Must admit I've found it quite therapeutic and have discovered a lot about the underside of my Defender! : - how many times can you bang your head on the front towing eye? 😓😓 - managed to top dress the front garden with the amount of sandy loam dug out the (many) nooks and crannies. Major culprits were behind plastic front arch shield and around the back lights/rear wheel arch. The back chassis and rear xmember were also chocker. I got a 90 degree wand for my jet washer which was a great help. - rust not yet as frightening as on my previous D2. Wire brushed the worst bits and treated with Fe123 - certainly looks much better - hoping weather improves then I can start on the messy bits. Have to work outside crawling under the car and keep breaking off to run errands / pick kids up so not ideal. Missed my chance with the great weather last week but was busy with work 😁 - intend to do inside chassis with RC900 and then with cavity wax - then cavity wax inside and outside of chassis, doors and other bits on diagram then rest of underside followed by underbody wax - will do wheel arches one at a time with cavity wax and then stone chip as I don't have a way to safely get all 4 wheels off at the same time. - have ordered some ACF50 for visible bits Has anybody used the high temp clear wax for the bonnet and engine compartment? I was going to use ACF but the clear hard wax looks interesting. 2012 110 XS SW Orkney Grey 2003 D2 Td5 Black [SOLD] |
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7th Oct 2015 7:34pm |
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| g-dog-s Member Since: 27 Aug 2015 Location: Surrey Posts: 16  
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Had the 110 given the full treatment by Zagato a few days ago.
Cavity & underbody wax with stone chip under the arches plus ACF50 to the cappings, rivets, hinges etc and the window seals titivated I have to say I am very impressed with the thoroughness and the results of the work I must apologise to Zagato for initially claiming the 110 was "quite clean underneath"; on his direction I found an amazing amount of compost hidden in the nooks and crannies behind all four wheels Many thanks again Chris for a truly excellent job |
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13th Oct 2015 7:17pm |
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| DG123 Member Since: 29 Aug 2015 Location: North West Posts: 133
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Hurrah - job done
It was easier then I thought; the Dinitrol products in the aerosol kit are so much easier to use than my previous experience with Waxoyl (albeit around 25 years ago)  - It was however MUCH more time consuming 
Jetted, mucho sandy gravel dug out of nooks and wirebrushed - started with Fe-123 on diff cover. Shocking amount of rust for a 3 year old motor, nothing terminal though (daughter's 12 year old, 6 owner neglected Clio is still like new underneath  )
 Click image to enlarge Fe123 treatment - rust converted  (I still have reservations that I'm not just sealing in rust that is going to come back and bite me)
Click image to enlarge The bits supplied in the Rejel Landrover kit were great - I ordered the protective gear and some plastic sheet from them to save the Tarmac; also got a solvent respirator mask from Machine Mart (vital when crawling around underneath the car, even outside) Click image to enlarge Sprayed all internal bits (chassis and bodywork from Zag's list (thanks!) with cavity wax then used rest of cavity wax cans to mist all of underside First attempt with underbody was went on a bit heavy - not helped by spraying onto wet cavity wax (it's behind the front bumper so can't be seen  ) . Had a cuppa to let the cavity wax dry a bit and then did rest of underside with underbody wax and stone chip in wheel arches
Click image to enlarge Must say it goes on a treat no pouring out or running all over the place (above bodge excluded  ) Dries hard as well - my D2 was Waxoyled by B & A and I was covered in  just looking at it
Click image to enlarge Had a 1/2 can of underbody wax and stone chip left over that I'm going to use to touch up a few missed bits. May also drop the fuel tank if the weather keeps fine as I struggled to get to all the xmember which was pretty rusty Took about 3 days in all, spread over around 2 weeks dodging the weather. Biggest pain was getting it all clean underneath and then having to use it again to run errands all the time  2012 110 XS SW Orkney Grey
2003 D2 Td5 Black [SOLD] Last edited by DG123 on 15th Oct 2015 8:44am. Edited 1 time in total |
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14th Oct 2015 7:54pm |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5012
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Good job
Unfortunately the chassis are rusty from new especially along the weld joints and if they go through a salty winter they come out brown underneath, best to get them treated and protected before they put salt on the roads. Yes you have to let the cavity wax dry a bit otherwise the underbody wax can slip down. I have Venomaters new 110 in at the moment and a beautiful black new 130 which is turning heads  Will put a pic up of it later, very nice...
Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated  Last edited by Zagato on 15th Oct 2015 7:50am. Edited 1 time in total |
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15th Oct 2015 7:00am |
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| DG123 Member Since: 29 Aug 2015 Location: North West Posts: 133
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Look forward to seeing the pics. Still unsure as to whether I should have gone with a 130 - seems the best fit to my needs; just so massive though and I needed it as a daily 😁
Edit - Whoa, what a great 130 2012 110 XS SW Orkney Grey
2003 D2 Td5 Black [SOLD] |
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15th Oct 2015 7:31am |
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| CDN38 Member Since: 14 Nov 2014 Location: Courtenay, BC Posts: 729
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Started last week with hot water pressure wash on the underside, came out amazingly clean It's drying out for a while indoors, I have some "renovations" to do before I start wire brushing off the rust and start with the RC800.
I have a thread going here on the progress... http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic40792.html Click image to enlarge |
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19th Oct 2015 7:07pm |
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| m33ufo Member Since: 19 Jan 2008 Location: Cardiff Posts: 1150 
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Gents,
I wanted to use a clear wax on the underside - it'll be applied to a new vehicle so didn't really want to plaster it in a black or brown product. Would using Dinitrol HP (a clear wax), give me good results? |
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22nd Oct 2015 6:29pm |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5012
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A few thoughts from owners who have decided against it!
The chassis/undersides from new are not a prestine, uniform shiny black pleasure to look at, it has rusty areas, greasy areas, oily areas, scratched areas with writing marks etc. The dark brown Dinitrol underbody wax coats the entire lot and neatens it up nicely. If you have a show vehicle and want it to look spanking underneath you would be better to hand paint it with a rock hard black chassis paint such as POR-15 which is what I did with mine... Very painstaking and took a week to do on and off and I wouldn,t do it again, no need with underbody wax. If using a clear underbody wax you would have to spend quite a bit of time smartening it all up first and then also have to wipe off the overspray from the cavity wax application and also stone chip. Even if not off-roading you will always get a film of road dirt which could be quite visible on clear wax and largely hidden with dark wax. If applied neatly the underside of your new Defender will cover all the mess from new and looks great
Some pics below of the underside stone-chip and underbody wax
Don't mess about with the ACF-50 to seal the foam strip invisibly (rear tub also), spray loads on and sorts spindles etc from rusting as well.
Stop rivet insides from corroding. Do the outsides as well obviously even though it,s Ally helps prevent the bubbling and staining you see on older models.
Bare metal in between hinge and bulkhead so run a line of ACF-50 along here regularly.
OK putting SS fasteners into hinges but the hinge itself rusts so cover that as well. Usually spray the whole thing then wipe off.
Bare metal also under rear tub cappings.
Undo screws and treat clips as they are rusty from new.
The new Dinitrol 447 stone chip goes on really thick, it has zinc bits in it also, nice to use...
Underbody wax goes on neatly if careful.
Worth spending time on the engine bay, bonnet etc treating brackets, hinges, bolt heads, anything metal In fact as it will rust!
Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated Last edited by Zagato on 23rd Oct 2015 7:56am. Edited 1 time in total |
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23rd Oct 2015 7:30am |
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| m33ufo Member Since: 19 Jan 2008 Location: Cardiff Posts: 1150
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I don't really mind that it's not pristine underneath. I'd just like to see what's beneath the wax rather than covering it up with an opaque coating. I'm going to give the Dinitrol High Performance Clear Wax a try.
Thanks for the great thread. |
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23rd Oct 2015 7:56am |
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