 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Corrosion Prevention Guide! |
 
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| Fellrunner Member Since: 28 Sep 2014 Location: Wandering Posts: 257   
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What a lovely looking Defender
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29th Nov 2014 10:25pm |
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| shaggydog Member Since: 12 Aug 2012 Location: Kent Posts: 3347  
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Literally fresh out the box
 Running Restoration Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/post323197.html#323197
Self confessed mileage hunter  |
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29th Nov 2014 10:32pm |
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| jomara Member Since: 26 Oct 2009 Location: Lanarkshire Posts: 1790  
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Good to see you've got your premises all up and running now Chris
2014 110 2.2TDCi XS Station wagon
1971 Bowler Tomcat 88 4.2 V8 Auto 2022 110 D250 XS Edition - Gone 2024 110 D250 X-Dynamic HSE |
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29th Nov 2014 10:36pm |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5012
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Hello mate
We are also hoping to move 25 miles further south in the New Year which will give us a much needed extra bedroom but more importantly a double garage and 1/2 acre to store boat/caravan and Landies All that extra for the same price as our house - mad! |
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30th Nov 2014 4:40pm |
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| CatherineF Member Since: 22 Nov 2014 Location: Wiltshire Posts: 762
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I can only imagine how much that transporter cost to ship the Defender, based on quotes I've had recently for our Business Centre to ship cars across the UK.
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2nd Dec 2014 5:24pm |
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| Fellrunner Member Since: 28 Sep 2014 Location: Wandering Posts: 257
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Hi CatherineF
It wasn't cheap, that's for sure. But, getting the chassis protected was important to me and, frankly, just one telephone conversation with Chris left me in no doubt that there only one person I wanted to do the work. I think he'll probably forget more about Defenders than I'll ever know! |
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2nd Dec 2014 6:31pm |
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| CatherineF Member Since: 22 Nov 2014 Location: Wiltshire Posts: 762
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I was thinking about getting our Defender brought down from Chester on a truck instead of going there and back with hubby.
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2nd Dec 2014 6:37pm |
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| jomara Member Since: 26 Oct 2009 Location: Lanarkshire Posts: 1790
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Zag is the man who wrote book on anti corrosion treatment for Defenders, his attention to detail is second to none!!! My next challenge is to try and repeat Chris' quality of work on my old Td5
 2014 110 2.2TDCi XS Station wagon
1971 Bowler Tomcat 88 4.2 V8 Auto 2022 110 D250 XS Edition - Gone 2024 110 D250 X-Dynamic HSE |
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2nd Dec 2014 6:43pm |
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| Cupboard Member Since: 21 Mar 2014 Location: Suffolk Posts: 2971 
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I've got a couple of questions I was wondering if anyone could help with...
What advantage (if any) do you get using a compressor? Aerosols are going to be quieter and not have hoses running around which would be good. Once all the rustproofing has been done, what happens when you pressure wash it? Avoid entirely? Avoid too much pressure? Only do it cold? |
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5th Dec 2014 8:13pm |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5012
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Compressors are great for plastering the whole of the underside thickly and quickly but not so great for getting into all the nooks crannies and little holes that should be done, remember these things largely rot from the inside out. If I use a compressor I also have to use aerosols to get into the small holes/areas. An aerosol DIN 02XL kit from Rejel.com can get into every area whilst doing the outside of the chassis quickly, how thick you want it is up to you, the XL kit gives you plenty of Dinitrol to plaster it on - the small diameter but long extension nozzle allows you to get into many areas including all the way along the chassis with a 360 degree squirt, door posts, bulkhead under windscreen, tub supports etc It also has a rust converting can to sort any rusty areas once rubbed down
No problem jet washing a Dintrolled Defender but only use as much pressure as you need. It doesn't take much to get mud off so only use the required pressure. Dinitrol is like a glue so it pretty robust but will wear down with repeated hard unnecessary pressure washing. |
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5th Dec 2014 9:19pm |
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| MOve Member Since: 24 Dec 2014 Location: East Anglia Posts: 54  
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Thank you Zagato et al.
Regards |
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26th Dec 2014 12:37am |
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| Cupboard Member Since: 21 Mar 2014 Location: Suffolk Posts: 2971
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Final question:
Now everything is clean underneath, I can't actually see much in the way of rust. There are a few small brown patches but nothing flaky. Do I need to use the rust converter? Do I need to spray rust converter in the chassis tubes? It's been sat inside for 24 hours now, a lot of that with heating, and I've felt over the whole chassis and inside the box where I can and it all feels perfectly dry. As an added helper just in case I've also blown it all out with an air line, turns out I had missed a couple of places with the pressure washer but that's all fine now
The stuff coming off was dust rather than sludge which I think is a good sign. |
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30th Dec 2014 5:33pm |
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| nitram17 Member Since: 08 Jun 2014 Location: newcastle Posts: 2261 |
Pardon my lack of knowledge but which part of the windscreen surround rusts....i thought it was aluminium?..... |
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2nd Jan 2015 6:34pm |
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Does it really take that much more effort and time to take pride in yourself and your work and do a proper job, NO, do the right thing by people and do a proper job. If it was me and couldn't do the work myself I would wait and watch the work being done...
| big steve Member Since: 24 Dec 2009 Location: hertfordshire Posts: 2456 
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zag whats the lead time on doing a 90 ?
steve 2015 2.2 tdci hardtop xs 3.2 conversion DONE 238bhp and 707nm torque and thats just the start ;-P hybrid turbo in build -done ready to fit ashcroft atb in transfer box 6 speed auto in build |
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8th Jan 2015 6:25pm |
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