 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Clutch exchange |
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| 67_6Cyl Member Since: 10 Feb 2010 Location: France Posts: 97  
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Well, at 160,000 kms the clutch has now died. No warning rattles (or me being too unobservant to notice), or anything. I am pretty pleased with that considering the use that the car gets. Took the car out of 4th, big judder, and then unable to select any other gear..... home by driving without clutch. Car now with the stealers. Jon |
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29th Apr 2014 11:43am |
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| Dieselhead Member Since: 21 Oct 2012 Location: Pulborough. West Sussex Posts: 552 |
Changed mine at 67,500 now
Mates 09 changed at 98,500 Both running mutch better now  Chris
2008 XS 110 2.4 Utility. Tonga Green 1953 Series 1 for restoration 1983 Mini Mayfair 2004 VW T5 Camper 2008 Diahatsu Sirion. Thats hers Classic Bolens Garden Tractors |
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29th Apr 2014 8:26pm |
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| martinfiattech Member Since: 13 Nov 2013 Location: leicester Posts: 422 
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New clutch fitted at 23240 miles, due to rattle at idle speed other wise it was fine, car was just over two years old, they also replaced the gearbox due to faulty third gear syncro.
Since then the pedal feel has been poor, soft at top of pedal and clutch bites an inch off the floor it was not like this before. The car has been returned to the dealers for this twice "it`s ok we have changed the fluid ect it`s fine well it`s not its rubbish I`ve even pressure and vacuum bleaded it myself it`s still poor they did something to the car when they initialy repaired it. So next week its off to another dealer for more work, my last car lasted 13 years on the original clutch and that's still going even when it was being used to tow a four tonne road compressor, a series three on a twin axle trailer, way over its train weight it never bothered it. Maybe I should have kept the Vectra ? Excuse the spelling I`am better with spanners and wires. |
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2nd May 2014 8:09am |
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| munch90 Member Since: 26 Oct 2013 Location: guildford Posts: 3558
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yes sounds like air in it to me , try back bleeding only way to get good pedal sometimes
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2nd May 2014 8:14am |
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| martinfiattech Member Since: 13 Nov 2013 Location: leicester Posts: 422
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Sorry clash in terminology their I call it the pressure bleeder my apprentice calls it back bleeding ( I think it`s a hangover from my Vauxhall days we called it pressure bleeding ).
You mean using a pump action oil can to force fluid back thru the slave cylinder bleed nipple toward the master cylinder, which I keep an oil can for this it`s never seen oil in it`s life it`s always full of brake fluid. Your right it is often the only way to get a good pedal. Yes I`ve done that and the resivour fills up quickly  .
The problem is still there they tell me they have replaced the slave cylinder and a pressure pipe due to leakage but I never saw a leak and lets face it if it had a leak it would have no pedal at all very quickly. I have placed a hose clamp on the clutch flexy hose lightly pressed the pedal by hand and guess what it was soft and dropped a bit so I think the fault is within the master cylinder itself but they don`t listen / won`t so it`s off elsewhere Thanks for the advice it is the easiest way to bleed them up . Excuse the spelling I`am better with spanners and wires. |
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2nd May 2014 8:54am |
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| munch90 Member Since: 26 Oct 2013 Location: guildford Posts: 3558
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never had much luck with vacuum bleeding ,guess you have pressure bleed from the top
even with a dodgy master (normally ) you can still get a good pedal but doesn't last long to be honest a oil can would not be my choice , ( may draw air as not really very sealed inside when using with a thin fluid ) , I always use a big medical syringe sorry not knocking your tools just saying |
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2nd May 2014 9:01am |
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| MK Member Since: 28 Aug 2008 Location: Santiago Posts: 2400  
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NOt sure if you have done it already but in my case I just do not press the pedal down to the bottom and release the fluid, but I press the pedal several times very quickly before letting the fluid off. Puma 110" SW
............................................................. Earth first. Other planets later |
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2nd May 2014 1:18pm |
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| Dasher Member Since: 12 Nov 2012 Location: Nottingham Posts: 30 
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My Dec 2010 110 is in to get the clutch rattles sorted this week - sounds very much like the torque springs and anticipating a new clutch. First vehicle that I've ever owned where the original tyres have outlived the original clutch (and I've had a license 40 years). I still have a couple of weeks warranty left so I may just be lucky, but not holding my breath as getting this done under warranty seems to be a bit hit and miss - we'll see.
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19th May 2014 9:50pm |
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| schuee Member Since: 16 Jul 2012 Location: Lincolnshire Posts: 378  
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Evening Dasher
I'm on my 3rd clutch due to the dreaded clutch rattle, all replaced under warranty without any problems from my dealer 
Hopefully this is the last one 
Cheers |
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19th May 2014 10:00pm |
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| Dasher Member Since: 12 Nov 2012 Location: Nottingham Posts: 30
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Good to know (about the warranty - not the failure). Trying a different dealer from the most local, this one actually appears helpful.
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19th May 2014 10:06pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17305 
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My clutch is rattlling again now (it's clutch number 3 on a 2007 DC with 145k miles on the clock, and has been in for approx 80k miles) so I have bought an AP driven plate and cover kit to fit, which I understand to be OEM.
I notice that the springs in the new driven plate rattle when the plate is shaken and can be rotated axially by hand. Is this normal on a new plate? Looking at the driven plate, it seems to me that there is nothing whatsoever to stop the springs falling out once they get a small amount of permanent set on them. It strikes me as a strange and unsatisfactory design - I am not a clutch designer but it seems to me that there are many simple ways in which the design of driven plate could be improved. |
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20th May 2014 8:06am |
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| MK Member Since: 28 Aug 2008 Location: Santiago Posts: 2400
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Somewhere I read a LR document stating the big springs should rattle when shacking them. I suppose it is designed allowing the springs to rotate so the internal plate does not stress the same spot always.
In other clutches with central dampeners, the springs are hidden behing the cover so they do not fall into the bellhousing. Puma 110" SW ............................................................. Earth first. Other planets later |
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20th May 2014 10:03pm |
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| Naks Member Since: 27 Jan 2009 Location: Stellenbosch, ZA Posts: 2625  
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yes, I was also surprised when I picked up and shook a brand new clutch plate. p.o.s design by LR once again...  --
2010 Defender Puma 90 + BAS remap + Alive IC + Slickshift + Ashcroft ATB rear 2015 Range Rover Sport V8 Supercharged 
Defender Puma Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zZ1en9 Discovery 4 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zXrtKO Range Rover/Sport L320/L322/L494 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zc58JQ |
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21st May 2014 5:20am |
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| Dasher Member Since: 12 Nov 2012 Location: Nottingham Posts: 30
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As an update to this, my clutch was replaced under warranty - springs were completely knackered. On road testing the new clutch, the engineer was unhappy with the gearbox - so it now has a new one of those too, also under warranty. 47,000 miles. I was less fortunate with a corrosion claim. I purchased the Defender as a six months old ex-dem vehicle but insisted, and got, a three year warranty. What I didn't know that only 2.5 years of this was "factory" warranty and the remaining six months was "extended warranty". Extended warranty only covers perforation - they wouldn't cover the crappy bubbling on the coffin posts. Annoying but at least I have a new 'box! |
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26th Jun 2014 1:01pm |
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