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fatman



Member Since: 14 Jan 2014
Location: Athens-Greece
Posts: 126
Greece 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Keswick Green
Well,i experimented a little,based on tatra805's solution.
First of all,i got rid of the water separator and the ITG filter 2 months ago,this is when i felt some difference,now i got rid of the snorkel,especially after i saw the dyno graphs of BAS.
Last Saturday i used some el'cheapo stuff that were around..
80 mm flexible aluminum (foil) hose that's used for Embarassed kitchen vents Embarassed
I also used two 100mm to 75mm reducers,i opened the inside to aprox 101 mm,i also made a recess where the water separator slides in and it slided on the filter box intake firmly,i also trimmed the 75mm end a little so the flexible hose got a firm connection.
I removed the original fender to air box tubing and i followed a different path for the flex hose,over the heater motor and directly to the side vent.
I made a temporary grill till i get an original,i left the whole thing unpainted just to get a poser-fast and furious look Whistle















The hose slides nicely into the gap between the fender and heater blower motor,without deforming,anything larger than 80mm outside diameter has to be "squeesed" to pass through.
Initial feel with the "drivers butt" dyno,i think it gained a lot around 2100 up to 3200+ rpms,some issues-hicups i had with the tune,dissapeared,less black smoke,hope i get some lower EGT's also Rolling Eyes
Total cost 2.2 euros for the reducers from a hardware store-the hose was lying around in the garage and the grill is a part of my previous disco 2 bumper.
When you place your hand on the grill,you feel the intake sucking air,so using an good quality rubber hose and an adaptor the hose can be extended over the windshield for water dives,without the need of a permanent snorkel.
Next mod,a dremel attack inside the airbox Mr. Green
Cheers.
Post #300866 21st Jan 2014 1:58pm
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bell-auto-services



Member Since: 08 Jul 2007
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 2232
United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Orkney Grey
Great work and a good write up Thumbs Up
Post #300872 21st Jan 2014 2:16pm
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4410
United Kingdom 
Interesting thread. Never thought these simple things would have such a large effect. Keep on modding
Post #300889 21st Jan 2014 3:19pm
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rustandoil



Member Since: 08 Sep 2012
Location: Cotswolds
Posts: 762
England 2005 Defender 110 Td5 XS DCPU Bonatti Grey
Good work Bow down
Post #300893 21st Jan 2014 3:26pm
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dgardel



Member Since: 30 Nov 2008
Location: Veneto (Heart & Head)
Posts: 3586
Italy 
the corrugated aluminum pipe that you used has a lot of losses (due to the corrugated) Discovery 5 td6 HSE Stornoway Gray Outback Engineering Limited Edition

IID Pro MV License
Post #300901 21st Jan 2014 3:55pm
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MK



Member Since: 28 Aug 2008
Location: Santiago
Posts: 2438
Chile 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Chawton White
How did you squeeze the pipe between the wing and the bulkhead? It is just a 2" gap between them. Puma 110" SW

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Earth first. Other planets later
Post #300954 21st Jan 2014 6:01pm
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theorangebandit



Member Since: 03 Jun 2013
Location: Stowmarket
Posts: 862
Did ypu measure the outer diameter of the entry pipe of the air box? My trucks in for paint work still! And im trying to compile parts so when I have it back I can get on and fit them straight away. Also need to modify the new Land rover RAI into a snorkel to complete my induction setup
Post #300962 21st Jan 2014 6:29pm
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fatman



Member Since: 14 Jan 2014
Location: Athens-Greece
Posts: 126
Greece 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Keswick Green
MK wrote:
How did you squeeze the pipe between the wing and the bulkhead? It is just a 2" gap between them.

I'll try to get a pic tomorrow but it slided quite easily,if you remove the original airbox pipework(you have to remove the heater pipework first on a LHD def) and you remove the side grill you'll see plenty of space,you can put your hand inside and pull the hose through.
Post #300977 21st Jan 2014 7:02pm
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MK



Member Since: 28 Aug 2008
Location: Santiago
Posts: 2438
Chile 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Chawton White
Thumbs Up Puma 110" SW

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Earth first. Other planets later
Post #300979 21st Jan 2014 7:06pm
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fatman



Member Since: 14 Jan 2014
Location: Athens-Greece
Posts: 126
Greece 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Keswick Green
theorangebandit wrote:
Did ypu measure the outer diameter of the entry pipe of the air box? My trucks in for paint work still! And im trying to compile parts so when I have it back I can get on and fit them straight away. Also need to modify the new Land rover RAI into a snorkel to complete my induction setup


A little larger than 101mm and little smaller than 102mm!!
I trimmed the inside of the 100mm reducer using a grinding wheel like this


Click image to enlarge

and "rebored" to the right size,i was lucky enough it had the right size,i'll measure the wheel tomorrow.
But with a dremel or a similar tool and some patience you'll get the right result.
Don't forget to make a recess-slot, on the inside perimeter of the reducer,i used a screwdriver which i heated with a blow torch,the airbox inlet has a similar protrusion on the underside.
Preferably undo the 3 screws that hold the airbox to the inner fender cause manouvering the reducer down there is little difficult.
Post #300989 21st Jan 2014 7:24pm
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theorangebandit



Member Since: 03 Jun 2013
Location: Stowmarket
Posts: 862
Cheers dude ill measure the pipe I have in mind to use tomorrow. Idealy id like to make it all from nice piece of metal pipong to give a smooth induction ill see what I can locate.
Post #300992 21st Jan 2014 7:30pm
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fatman



Member Since: 14 Jan 2014
Location: Athens-Greece
Posts: 126
Greece 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Keswick Green
dgardel wrote:
the corrugated aluminum pipe that you used has a lot of losses (due to the corrugated)


I agree but don't forget that i removed almost 1.5 meters of the original ducting connected with a mantec snorkel
like this
Click image to enlarge,not the smoothest rubber hose there as i saw from the inside Laughing Laughing
So yes,my stage 1 hose arrangement is a success - for me!
Retrurning from work tonight i can confirm that the engine breaths a lot better!!
Or i am ultra placebo effected Laughing Laughing
Post #300994 21st Jan 2014 7:34pm
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theorangebandit



Member Since: 03 Jun 2013
Location: Stowmarket
Posts: 862
Placebos are just as good as the real thing lol if I feel no difference I wont have spent much in the process. And at the end ill feel a little better knowing my turbo is breathing better. I was going to fit a similar mantec snorkel but was gifted an un used second hand land rover snorkel Thumbs Up
Post #301003 21st Jan 2014 7:48pm
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fatman



Member Since: 14 Jan 2014
Location: Athens-Greece
Posts: 126
Greece 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Keswick Green
theorangebandit wrote:
Cheers dude ill measure the pipe I have in mind to use tomorrow. Idealy id like to make it all from nice piece of metal pipong to give a smooth induction ill see what I can locate.


I remind you that my defender is LHD and the thin wall hose i used has 80mm outside diameter and about 77 inside diameter.
If you use a smoother but with thicker wall tubing,you'll have to use some ready made bends,don't rush and throw money,first check the "route" from fender grill to over the heater blower motor(on LHD def) and to the filter box.

Hopefully next week i'll proceed to stage 2 (tubing-not tuning) Rolling with laughter and test it to fellow members Pouf stock puma-i'm getting my dyno-pants warmed up Laughing
Post #301010 21st Jan 2014 7:57pm
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theorangebandit



Member Since: 03 Jun 2013
Location: Stowmarket
Posts: 862
Haha ill take my time over it. I have access to alot of engineering machinery so im sure I can create something my first effort will be spent on making a single plate adaptor for the base of me snorkel, itll have a metal pipe in the centre providing a water tight seal. Mines RHD(normal Whistle) so im sure ill have head room to route the pipe
Post #301016 21st Jan 2014 8:13pm
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