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AlexPuma42 Member Since: 13 Jun 2013 Location: Manchester Posts: 43 ![]() ![]() |
had a good read through this thread and a lot of the builds are just a dream for me
I drive a Puma Hard Top which is required for work so i cannot fit a sub into the back as it takes away vital loadspace anyhoo im now going to head in the active sub direction with it being mounted on the bulkhead behind the seats. The whole reason iv started the ball rolling with fitting an install is because my head unit has decided it doesnt want to play ball and not working - so in the process of changing this i might aswell do my speakers i want to use these speakers off of just Kenwood but will i need to use spacers/adaptors? - http://www.justkenwood.co.uk/car-audio.aspx/kfc-s1094-speakers Any help is muchly appreciated |
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barbel jim Member Since: 12 Dec 2012 Location: Northants Posts: 1434 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Steve's your man for kenwood, But yes they will fit ok. Only 43mm deep so should fit straight in no spacers required. I fitted some 70mm deep in a puma a while back. When I have fitted active subs to the bulkhead, I mounted on a board fist , which I covered with cloth 1 side and rubber on the back. This will help eliminate rattles created by the active being up against the bulkhead
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custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20643 ![]() ![]() |
I mirror what Jim say's above. Check out my Gallery for some ideas of mounting an active sub. What one were you thinking of looking at?
Also speaker wise they will indeed fit perfectly I have the exact same one's only the previous grille model but the power is the same. You can either mount in the existing holes but the speakers won't be straight but at an angle or if you prefer as I did you can drill new holes. All fixings are supplied too. If you want powerful bass though you will need to go bigger but that entails plenty more work. These are very good though and top sound quality and your sub will produce plenty off bass for you. Gimme a shout on here or via PM if you want to chat. ![]() β½οΈπ’οΈβοΈπ§°πͺ |
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custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20643 ![]() ![]() |
Oh and just read the end of Jim's post. On my HU's control module mounting board I used adhesive foam strip. Not just to stop rattles but stops rubbing (ohhh er
![]() I do have some spare if anyone requires some... TheThunder Rollsπ¬π§πΊπΈ β½οΈπ’οΈβοΈπ§°πͺ |
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gambit Member Since: 26 Mar 2011 Location: Sussex Posts: 79 ![]() |
I have a TD5 90. Earlier in this thread there was mention of a 1.5 DIN head unit that might be an option to allow you to get rid of the plastic insert.
Can't find one of those, so is another option to make the opening bigger with a dremmel or similar and then fit a double DIN? I wonder if it is straightforward or not, given the retaining socket for the rear of the unit? I am thinking of getting a replacement head unit to my Kenwood CD player too, nothing wrong with the unit, but am thinking of a reversing camera? Are there other options? I was shown a mirror gadget, but that looked kind of ugly and too big to be honet. |
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custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20643 ![]() ![]() |
Never known of a 1.5DIN unit. If you wanted to go for 2 DIN just check you have room and then you can cut out the extra size. Simply fit a 2 DIN cage and that's done. I wouldn't worry about the rear mounting too much you can buy universal brackets to fit the rear if required and the wiring shouldn't be a problem. If the plugs are ISO then it's plug and play if not there are plenty of adaptors available. You can indeed have a rear view cam linked to the HU but it won't be cheap. All this is possible on a single DIN flip out like mine though without all the hastle of fitting and cutting. But I assume you don't want that?... TheThunder Rollsπ¬π§πΊπΈ
β½οΈπ’οΈβοΈπ§°πͺ |
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gambit Member Since: 26 Mar 2011 Location: Sussex Posts: 79 ![]() |
Thanks for the quick reply and thoughts around fitting a double DIN. I would be fine with the standard DIN and a flipout screen. The problem is, I find the little plastic surround a bit loose, always has ben. This may be fixable with a new part. As I recall the wires holding the surround in place do seem a bit oddly shaped, but don't know if that is normal.
The surround is the only reason I was thinking of going up from a single DIN. I have been toying with the idea of a flipout screen for ages, long before getting my Defender really. If I was to do the upgrade over a number of months, spread the expense out, is the likely to be a compatibility issue. I mean, get the head unit now, camera in a couple of so months...? Especially if I bought end of range to get the best deal ![]() |
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custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20643 ![]() ![]() |
A single DIN cage would sort that out by locking it in place.
![]() β½οΈπ’οΈβοΈπ§°πͺ |
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AlexPuma42 Member Since: 13 Jun 2013 Location: Manchester Posts: 43 ![]() ![]() |
thanks for all the fast replies you sound like a man of much knowledge when it comes to a system lol
Cheers for that i think i will mount them on an angle for now bit wary of my DIY skills haha - Iv not got as frar as deciding what type of sub/Watt's etc yet but wont be massive as its a works van so at times its not only me driving have to look after the older generation i work with lol cheers once its all arrived i will eye it all up and possibly send a PM over Muchly appreciated Alex |
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AlexPuma42 Member Since: 13 Jun 2013 Location: Manchester Posts: 43 ![]() ![]() |
thanks for all the fast replies you sound like a man of much knowledge when it comes to a system lol
Cheers for that i think i will mount them on an angle for now bit wary of my DIY skills haha - Iv not got as frar as deciding what type of sub/Watt's etc yet but wont be massive as its a works van so at times its not only me driving have to look after the older generation i work with lol cheers once its all arrived i will eye it all up and possibly send a PM over Muchly appreciated Alex |
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custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20643 ![]() ![]() |
No problem at all. Drop me a PM anytime.
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() β½οΈπ’οΈβοΈπ§°πͺ |
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AlexPuma42 Member Since: 13 Jun 2013 Location: Manchester Posts: 43 ![]() ![]() |
thanks for all the fast replies you sound like a man of much knowledge when it comes to a system lol
Cheers for that i think i will mount them on an angle for now bit wary of my DIY skills haha - Iv not got as frar as deciding what type of sub/Watt's etc yet but wont be massive as its a works van so at times its not only me driving have to look after the older generation i work with lol cheers once its all arrived i will eye it all up and possibly send a PM over Muchly appreciated Alex |
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gambit Member Since: 26 Mar 2011 Location: Sussex Posts: 79 ![]() |
Forgive my silly question - is this the same thing that comes with the head unit? Or something else? edited: just done a quick google search. I have a DIN cage already. To be fair, it does stop the rattling about and only very occassionally does the plastic surround seem to protrude a little... Perhaps I haven't done such a good job of moving all the wires out the way when pushing the unit in to the cage? As I recall there were a whole heap of wires I just didn't use |
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custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20643 ![]() ![]() |
Yep make sure your cables are out to the side of the HU or any direction really away from preventing the HU from sliding all the way in properly. That and you don't want trapped wires full stop. You should see mine down the back there on my Puma the whole of the back of my dash is wires pretty much.
![]() ![]() ![]() β½οΈπ’οΈβοΈπ§°πͺ |
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