Home > Puma (Tdci) > Clutch exchange |
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bvandyk Member Since: 03 Sep 2012 Location: South Africa Posts: 49 |
Look at the last 8 digits of the number.
Both of you fall within the range |
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10th Sep 2012 1:36pm |
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dilukabey Member Since: 17 May 2011 Location: Sri Lanka Posts: 173 |
[quote="nidge n"][quote="astoltz"][quote="dilukabey"]I have the rattle when the engine at idle. But when I depress the clutch, the rattle goes off. Should I replace my clutch immeditely or can i wait till this gets worst.
Also what is the correct model number for the clutch kit as there are many in the market with the confusion with different price range. They swing from 90 GBP to 212 GBP. LR012199 LR012199G LR037956[/quote] Clutch Kit Part Number: LR037956 You will notice that I posted a Service Bulletin earlier in this thread. on 20 Aug LR released an update to that Service Bulletin: Technical Bulletin: LTB00477v2 (See below link) [url]https://www.defender2.net/gallery/albums/userpics/11688/LTB00477v2%20-%20Clutch%20Noise.pdf[/url] In this bulletin the part number is indicated as: LR037956 Clutch Kit I think the clutch has more that one sympton 1) Clutch Rattle during IDLE - which it seems is caues by a Thrust washer failure in the clutch plate assembly 2) Viabriation when ingenine is switched of 3) During Gear changes one hear a metalic noise / perhaps clunk and gear changes is more difficult. 4) When in low gears ie (1St low range) one can hear a noise souding like the front diff drivetrain noise - Simmilar to this Show youtube video First off when my clutch was replace beginning of this year all the above was gone. What a pleassure to drive the Puma again!! When my Puma was in for the above I wrote these above 5 points on a letter for the dealer to check. I did not expect that all of these would be resolved by replacing the clutch. From early on I had issue #1 and #4. It gomes and goes. Later stages the rattle was gone and then started again. Since I was new to the Puma I thought #4 was because of the low down torque of the Diesel engine. This also become worse over time where it was not enjoyable going off road (Since I had my Puma -25000km- when I am in say 3rd (high range) and the revs drop to below 1200rpm number #4's noise/sound could be heard. After clutch replacment I can now in 3rd High, can drop the revs to below 1200rpm without the need to gear down to get rid of this noise. I saw the old clutch when it was out (kick myself for not taking pictures) - 1 Spring was almost to the point where it was falling out - Did not look at the thrust washer bit:( Regards Abrie[/quote] This is really useful information Abrie, thanks. Its interesting that they allow another hour for the replacement of a 2.2[/quote] Many thanks for valued info on this topic everyone . I have no company warranty what so ever so if i am to change the clutch it would be from my pocket.! There are two different part numbers LR012199 and LR037956 with huge price difference. LR012199 is on ebay for 100GBP and LR037956 is for 212 GBP. If I go with the cheaper version of this, would i have any clutch issue again or does it really worth to spend 212 GBP on LR037956 and sorted? Cheers! |
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10th Sep 2012 2:14pm |
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qserv Member Since: 04 Jan 2012 Location: Newcastle Australia Posts: 1 |
i've just been through the clutch replacement saga with my 2011 130DC, It was a bit of a around...
Mine falls within the range in that technical bulletin, i had a rattle mainly at idle, a clunking/vibration on shutdown, and some other weird noises, i was told it was clutch plate springs, the local dealer ordered LR037956 and pulled my clutch out, when the parts arrived they contacted me to say the new plate was actually worse(springs even looser) then what came out and they had reordered. New parts arrived a few days later with the same issue. Now this is at a dealership in Australia(Newcastle, NSW) parts were in Melbourne, after receiving a few duds - there was 2 130's not just mine with the same issue at the dealers at the time, they contacted the parts warehouse who checked ALL of the kits they had on hand and they ALL had the same issue. The dealer put in one of the new kits to get my car back on the road and told me to expect it to be just as bad, which it is, and that it would have to resolved once the parts have been sorted out. Now as far as i am aware an engineer from LR Australia checked this out at the dealership in Newcastle, he took pictures and videos of the loose springs etc, but i dont know where it goes from there.... So Basically the new part as per LTB00477v2 did NOT fix my problem and LRA have yet to give me a solution. |
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13th Sep 2012 4:06am |
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bvandyk Member Since: 03 Sep 2012 Location: South Africa Posts: 49 |
Interesting. That bulletin specifically notes that the springs may rattle when you shake it around. When working they are in compression and should not rattle. And centrifugal force should stop the rattling when at idle and gear changes happen. It also notes that you will notice free play on the springs. |
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13th Sep 2012 5:29am |
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Marius Member Since: 21 Dec 2010 Location: South Africa Posts: 231 |
I have a dilema. I don't hear any funny noises at idle, nor any when I shut down.
The only symptom I have is the clunky noises at gear changes. I have learned to eliminate these noises for the most part by just playing that clutch just right and releasing slowly. But that problem seems to be a run-of-the-mill kind of problem and not related to this issue???? Or am I wrong???? Should I go for the recall in any case???? |
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13th Sep 2012 6:22am |
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bvandyk Member Since: 03 Sep 2012 Location: South Africa Posts: 49 |
I also had that when I bought my Defender. Replaced the A-Arm ball joint and all good again |
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13th Sep 2012 7:01am |
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Marius Member Since: 21 Dec 2010 Location: South Africa Posts: 231 |
A-Arm ball joint? Where/what is that? |
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13th Sep 2012 7:21am |
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bvandyk Member Since: 03 Sep 2012 Location: South Africa Posts: 49 |
Here is a nice guide http://www.repairmylandrover.co.uk/defende...nt-renewal Although mine was replaced under warranty by Land Rover Menlyn |
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13th Sep 2012 7:34am |
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Marius Member Since: 21 Dec 2010 Location: South Africa Posts: 231 |
They say you get the (klonk) when applying brakes or drive. I get it driving, but not at braking. Did you get it at braking as well? |
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14th Sep 2012 8:44am |
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bvandyk Member Since: 03 Sep 2012 Location: South Africa Posts: 49 |
No, only when changing gears or pulling away. If I released the clutch very slow / in a specific way, it wasnt as bad. |
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14th Sep 2012 9:23am |
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Jammer600 Member Since: 27 Feb 2011 Location: Bath/Warminster Posts: 306 |
Clutch changed today, old friction plates springs had come out!! Put a genuine friction plate and pressure plate and thrust bearing with hydraulic seal!! 57 plate 90 with 65000 miles 90 Puma HT
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19th Sep 2012 8:56pm |
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bwanashamba Member Since: 03 Jan 2012 Location: tanzania Posts: 14 |
just had my clutch exchanged,2011 puma double cab 130, only done 30000 kms!!
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21st Sep 2012 8:29am |
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Marius Member Since: 21 Dec 2010 Location: South Africa Posts: 231 |
My Dealer is oooohing and aaaing about the clutch kit. Waiting for Land Rover SA to approve this to be done. Surely if in warranty this should not be a problem??
Anyone from South Africa got this done under Warranty? Elsewhere? |
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12th Oct 2012 11:31am |
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Naks Member Since: 27 Jan 2009 Location: Stellenbosch, ZA Posts: 2646 |
Boet, mine was replaced at 33,000km and warranty paid for the full cost. Show him the Technical Service Bulletin and demand that they cover it 100% else you're going to the MIO. DO NOT BACK DOWN, it's a crap clutch design and they must bear the cost! -- 2010 Defender Puma 90 + BAS remap + Alive IC + Slickshift + Ashcroft ATB rear 2015 Range Rover Sport V8 Supercharged Defender Puma Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zZ1en9 Discovery 4 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zXrtKO Range Rover/Sport L320/L322/L494 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zc58JQ |
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12th Oct 2012 11:38am |
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