excossack wrote:

So I am Ok with the Jenolite
Is it still a wise move to paint over with Zinc 182 and then POR15 or, skip the Zinc and go Jenolite > POR15?

The call really is on how rusty the chassis is and if you think you can stop it all dead by manual abrasion and acid conversion!

To explain there are two theories on how to deal with chassis rust.

1. You can either go down the wire brush and red oxide/zinc undercoat and chassis black route which will eventually need doing again BUT you can see where it comes through and needs future attention or

2. You can do the same treatment and cover it in POR-15 and guarantee no rust will come through but you will never be able to see whats going on underneath and how bad it is rotting if it is doing so!

So it really is your call on how well you think you can kill the rust. Decent professionals will get the bad rust off and treat the surface rust with an acid converting solution then spray it with Dinitrol. The Dinitrol kit actually has an acid converting spray can in it but you may need more depending on your chassis. Sorry i can't be of more help the same conundrum happens for the inside of an older rusty chassis - some spray it with rust converting solution inside but most just use the cavity treatment.

Once the cavities have been treated it can take years for any existing rust to do any serious harm, just keep the mud out by flushing if you do a lot of wading and top up the treatments

ZeDefender wrote:

I am now utterly rust-paranoid...

I have decided to fix my black chequerplate to the alu rivnuts in my wings using black steel M6 screws (stainless won't take black paint well and is worse with alu for bimetallic corrosion). HOWEVER before I use the screws I will first treat them entirely with Kurust (they are a bit "brownish" from new), then paint them with Hammerite and finally use Duralac for the assembly - well, not quite finally - last I will dowse the whole lot in ACF-50.

Go on then Zag - tell me what I've forgotten

It's a tricky one Matt, this is why ali rivets are a better choice when you can use them because in the first instance they are obviously made of aluminium and secondly you can put a sheath around them so that the surfaces never meet (electric wire casing with the wires stripped out for instance). Screws are more difficult but some on here have made the equivalent of rawplugs so there is less or no contact between the different metals. K9 recently put bonnet chequer plate on his and explained how he did it which may help, probably plastered it with marine Silkaflex as he gets it free

It's not good the screws are rusting already I prefer to use sealants/gunk/sprays etc as most of the paint will peel off when you use the screw and if you are doing it wet it will be a hell of a job to get it back out again when you need to

Whatever you do i'm afraid by drilling a hole it will corrode, it's just reducing the rot with care and under chequer plate it can last decades before anything serious is seen. Less holes the better of course

excossack wrote:

Thanks for the reply. Personally prefer to see what's going on under the paint, I would rather find out before an MOT or its too late that the chassis is rusting away and needs major work doing to it.

Agreed the POR-15 route is better kept for new chassis or light rusty chassis and big lumps of metal like axles, hubs etc where you only want and need to do it once

ZeDefender wrote:

At least experiments are fun - I always enjoyed the ones I did on myself most

Cheers
Matt

I have this image of Mr Hyde furiously scoffing cheese

Zagato wrote:

K9 recently put bonnet chequer plate on his and explained how he did it which may help, probably plastered it with marine Silkaflex as he gets it free :

Free is good! Sikaflex 29I it's the mutts nuts.... Wet assembly is always a good idea IF you do not need to subsequently remove...

warren wrote:

is there any other stuff I can use that isn't Dinitrol if I can't get hold of any that will stop/cure rust spots popping up?

Another great product used prolifically in the marine industry where I work is a product called Fertan.....It works too.. If it's good enough to treat items that have been immersed in seawater for anything up to a year it's good enough for me.

Zag, guess what? Fertan's free too!

Linky fingy....
http://www.fertan.co.uk/ If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!

Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!!