 | Home > Technical > chassis replacement - yes or no? |
 
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| bodstruck Member Since: 09 May 2020 Location: Wiltshire Posts: 922  
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Weld what you have. You'll be 5-6k down if getting someone else to do the chassis or a lot of your time if doing it DIY
Weld it, enjoy it. Weld it again next time if needed. Save the chassis replacement for when it absolutely needs it. Just my opinion  |
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1st Oct 2024 4:50pm |
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| revd Member Since: 20 Apr 2024 Location: England Posts: 132
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Plenty of specialists will weld on a new cross member, YouTube will show what’s involved
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1st Oct 2024 5:30pm |
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| 34064 Member Since: 12 Dec 2023 Location: South Central Posts: 192 
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Depends if it's your life long vehicle and you want to keep it forever a chassis wouldn't be a problem. If it isn't just weld it up and keep it going as you do live in quite a hostile environment for chassis. Up to you probably at the end of the day but a chassis swap isn't a 5 minute job where as a new cross member from somewhere like DDS is around the £300 mark and some time to sort out which would keep you going for another few years where other parts of the chassis might not be great. 110 Td5 Ex Utilities slowly converting into a pop top camper one day
Build thread:https://www.defender2.net/forum/post1024784.html#1024784 |
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1st Oct 2024 6:06pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17446 
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I've just been in a similar position with the back end of my 2007 110 with a couple of small rust hole in the vicinity of the place where the OS chassis rail joins the cross-member. It is a sad fact that if you can see a rust hole you are looking at the tip of the iceberg and the rust will be much worse than it looks (which definitely was the case with mine and was evident after the chassis met Mr Needlegun). It is also an awkward spot to weld since access is poor, it is a complex shape, and there are many layers in the area where the cross-member and main rails meet. The whole cross-member is really just a collection of rust-traps welded together, it is a horrible design!
Because of all this I decided to go for a galvanized HD cross-member with extensions (which move the joint to an area where the top surface can be welded with the body in situ and well away from the complex joint structure) supplied by DDS, and since I am short of time at present I opted to have it fitted by a very trustworthy independent (there are very few firms I allow near my vehicle). They're not the cheapest, the best seldom are, but did an excellent job and also TIG repaired some corrosion holes in the alloy strip above the cross-member for a total cost very similar to the figure you mention for the chassis. The chassis won't last forever and in due course - when the rust gets bad elsewhere - I will fit a galvanized chassis, but I hope that it will be a good few years hence. When this does happen I'll cut the cross-member off since it will undoubtedly still be sound. |
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1st Oct 2024 6:44pm |
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| Iansy110 Member Since: 16 Nov 2020 Location: Inverclyde Posts: 8  
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I can wholeheartedly recommended Gibson Auto Services in Cumnock . Gibson's have been looking after my defender for the past ten years or so including a chassis replacement during 2019.
Best of luck |
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1st Oct 2024 9:46pm |
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| Beco90 Member Since: 10 Jul 2024 Location: South Wales Posts: 15
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The price varies depending on how much work you choose to have done at the same time. Most people use it as an opportunity to complete other jobs which are quicker and cheaper to do with the body and chassis apart. Brake lines and fuel lines being an obvious ones. Extras tend to be replacement of all suspension bushes and possible new shocks and springs, galvanised turrets etc.Clutch. You might want to consider having the new chassis painted and cavity waxed before fitting to reduce the “bling factor”/attractiveness to car thieves and to try and prolong the new chassis. Des any of the body structure need attention? Bulkhead? B-pillars?
Most companies I have contacted advise £3-4K Labour for a more basic chassis swap. Some example prices below. Alpine Restorations near Leeds come highly recommended. https://www.alpine-restorations.co.uk/galv...placement/ Tamar Cars: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/383042364490?mk...media=COPY Marsden Auto Developments (approved by Richards Chassis): https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254378119608?mk...media=COPY |
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2nd Oct 2024 8:06am |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8053  
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i have done 6 chassis swaps fairly recently and when my own 2010 plate started going on the offside rear crossmember to chassis rail join i was in a similar predicament as Blackwolf. needle gun showed it as a true problem. i posted it on here at the time.
I opted for HD 3mm galv cross member with long extensions as already mentioned this allows the join to be on a downward sweep of the chassis rails so the top can be welded with the tub in situ. i purchased from an Ebay supplier i have used to do 4 other rear cross members. DDS didnt have stock at the time i fitted the first one and i have stayed with ebay chap since. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/292823529586 was £435 when i bought one 5 oct 23. its drop the tank to fit. 2 days if if your not pushing it start to finish. can be done in a day if tank comes out easily and no complications such as side tanks, rear tank guards, towing kit etc. Cheers James 110 2012 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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2nd Oct 2024 9:18am |
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| jimbo55 Member Since: 15 Jul 2020 Location: Midlands Posts: 399
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When I was in a similar position I replaced the whole chassis
Yes it wasn’t cheap, budget 3-5k in labour plus the cost of your chassis if you’re paying someone depending on how much other work you have - I could do a lot of the work which obviously helps I decided I was in the truck for the long term, so throughout the life it made more sense to spend the money once rather than do a cross member and a few patches that would never be a permanent solution. once the rust has set it, it’s extremely difficult to stop it spreading especially inside where you can’t treat it properly. |
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2nd Oct 2024 9:28am |
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| BrickBox Member Since: 05 Oct 2021 Location: Wales Posts: 838  
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I think that’s the main question - are you keeping it for the foreseeable? If so, chassis swap.
If you think you only have a couple of years or so, then patch/repair. 2008 2.4 110 Utility Station Wagon XS. |
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2nd Oct 2024 10:14am |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8053
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it depends where else there is rust. i did the cross member on this one as the rest of the chassis is sound. the bulkhead mind you is on its way out! Cheers James 110 2012 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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2nd Oct 2024 11:06am |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3424  
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The quality of chassis (steel, or paint, or both) degraded and became more prone to rusting since the Td5 was introduced. I did a rear crossmember on a Td5. Rear cross member was absolutely shot, more holes than steel, but remarkably rest of the chassis was very solid with only surface rust.
Opted for a galvanized cross member. Pig to weld, but worth the extra effort and cost. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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2nd Oct 2024 1:33pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17446
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There seems also to have been a window around 2007-2009 when something very strange was done to rear crossmembers in the factory. I have seen quite a number of vehicle (my own being one) where the crossmember appears as though it is unpainted corten steel, with a rusty weathered finish and no apparent trace of paint. It isn't, of course, and will eventually hole.
This seems to be a problem specific to early Pumas, and I do not recall seeing either a TD5 or a Puma later than about 2009 suffering from it. Land-Rover sadly seemed to forget how to build long-lasting chassis at about the same time as they forgot how to design long-lasting clutches, the Disco2 chassis being a good example. Why do 50% of Disco2 chassis rust to oblivion above and behind the rear axle, a place which really shouldn't be especially susceptible to rusting? |
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2nd Oct 2024 1:47pm |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3424
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Thought I could add the picture from the OP.
 Click image to enlarge 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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2nd Oct 2024 3:08pm |
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| gilarion Member Since: 05 Dec 2013 Location: Wales Posts: 5111 
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It is not that hard to replace the chassis. The body comes off completely then it is a matter of attaching the axles and wheels, installing the engine fuel tank, etc. The hardest part for me was the electrics and feeding the looms through the chassis.
Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge For those who like Welsh Mountains and narrow boats have a look at my videos and photos at.. http://www.youtube.com/user/conwy1 |
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2nd Oct 2024 3:43pm |
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