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Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Bloomslang loom is it needed with Crystal headlights & B
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Pickles



Member Since: 26 May 2013
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 3784

Australia 2013 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Keswick Green
VeeTee wrote:
custom90steve wrote:

What options are there? Is it just Boomslang and Landreziger or what ever its called?



As a matter of fact, I just found out Land Rover issued a Technical Bulletin on the subject of faulty headlight switch due to too high current (the document in Dutch is is LTB00467), the repair has even a genuine Land Rover Part No. LR030390.
Interestingly, the Tech Bulletin says it concerns only VIN numbers 7A732615-BA412050 from years 2007-2011. I thought the problem (and construction of the switch) did not change after 2011?

Couldn't read this.
What does it mean?...Does it mean that Defenders subsequent to the mentioned Vins have been upgraded etc so no longer have a switch issue?
Pickles.
Post #564366 15th Sep 2016 9:53pm
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Sadi



Member Since: 23 Jul 2015
Location: Windhoek
Posts: 334

Namibia 2016 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 Heritage Edition SW Grasmere Green
I know the Td5 had a similar problem with the switch - which was pre 2007.

If someone with a post 2011 model could measure the voltage at the headlamp it could provide the answer - whether the issue was addressed or not.

The procedure described here is exactly what the commercial headlight loom does.
Post #564385 16th Sep 2016 5:11am
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ericvv



Member Since: 02 Jun 2011
Location: Near the Jet d'Eau
Posts: 5816

Switzerland 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SVX Station Wagon Santorini Black
VeeTee wrote:
custom90steve wrote:

What options are there? Is it just Boomslang and Landreziger or what ever its called?



As a matter of fact, I just found out Land Rover issued a Technical Bulletin on the subject of faulty headlight switch due to too high current (the document in Dutch is is LTB00467), the repair has even a genuine Land Rover Part No. LR030390.
Interestingly, the Tech Bulletin says it concerns only VIN numbers 7A732615-BA412050 from years 2007-2011. I thought the problem (and construction of the switch) did not change after 2011?


Interesting, but when reading this, it is clear that the Landreiziger loom is a much simpler and better piece of engineering design than the Land Rover solution. Landreiziger all connects simply under the bonnet, while with Land Rover you have to dismantle steering wheel, half the steering column surrounds, split wires, feed them from cabin to engine compartment, etc. They even make you take out the coins tray. Shocked
But of course, Land Rover engineers in all their wisdom will have it right here, Landreiziger must have missed some important things in their simple design. I guess I have to start worrying now about what my Dutch solution can do bad to my truck. Neutral
Eric You never actually own a Defender. You merely look after it for the next generation.
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https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dxwjPuHIV7I
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Post #564393 16th Sep 2016 6:15am
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Sadi



Member Since: 23 Jul 2015
Location: Windhoek
Posts: 334

Namibia 2016 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 Heritage Edition SW Grasmere Green
Thumbs Up
Post #564412 16th Sep 2016 8:44am
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20342

United Kingdom 
All the jist really is, is A, keep it simple, B, take current direct from battery for less voltage drop, C, reduce current through switch to mA's instead of nearly 10A.

Quite why this wasn't does as standard I don't know...

Relay switching is basic but to directly switch current is a very outdated solution, abd nearly 10A is fairly high. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
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Post #564420 16th Sep 2016 9:14am
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VeeTee



Member Since: 06 Mar 2011
Location: Somewhere
Posts: 1512

Netherlands 
customsteve wrote:

...but to directly switch current is a very outdated solution...

... that's very in line then with the Defender, isn't it? Rolling with laughter Cheers, Vincent
1959 Polynorm 1/4 Ton Trailer, Olive Drab Green (sold)
1970 M416 Military Trailer (Camping Trailer Conversion), Epsom Green (sold)
1975 Series III 88 V6, Light Green (sadly sold)
1996 Defender 110 CSW 300 Tdi, Epsom Green (sold)
2000 Freelander 1 TD4 3-drs, Silver (sold)
2006 Freelander 1 TD4 5-drs Facelift Automatic, Tonga Green (sold)

MySite
Post #564423 16th Sep 2016 9:21am
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20342

United Kingdom 
True, but the design isn't particularly faulty.

Then again, could that be contested?.. Rolling with laughter Rolling with laughter $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
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Post #564433 16th Sep 2016 9:58am
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Cupboard



Member Since: 21 Mar 2014
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 2971

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 HT Corris Grey
There wouldn't be any problem with the stock switch and wiring if the switch was beefy enough and the cables were of sufficient grade.

Effectively all a relay is is a remote control switch.
Post #564443 16th Sep 2016 10:30am
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Keith5



Member Since: 27 May 2016
Location: Scotland
Posts: 352

United Kingdom 2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Santorini Black
Fitted the Boomslang loom (from Paddock) this evening. Put the earth to the front wing bolts and ran the live along the chassis to the battery box.

Took about 40 mins altogether and my only issue is that I've needed to run the conduit across the top of the fan cowl as I couldn't get it fed through underneath in the time I had available. I suspect when I decide what I am doing with the headlights and have it open again I will try to find a better route to the drivers side lamp.

Not sure if its wishful thinking but even with the standard bulbs and lenses it seems brighter. Keith
Post #564705 17th Sep 2016 8:04pm
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Stacey007



Member Since: 25 Sep 2015
Location: Cheshire
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United Kingdom 
^ sounds good Thumbs Up
Post #564706 17th Sep 2016 8:09pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20342

United Kingdom 
I can't remember where I routed my spots permanent live, I know it was in convoluted tube but I think it was the inner wing.
Quite a bit of theadong involved then unde and in.
Definitely needs to be fused near the battery and not at the front otherwise you've got an unprotected cable run.

With earths on each side where have the rest of you earthed too? $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
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Post #564710 17th Sep 2016 8:21pm
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VeeTee



Member Since: 06 Mar 2011
Location: Somewhere
Posts: 1512

Netherlands 
I connected the permanent live of the kit directly to the alternator B+. Easier than routing to the battery box (at least on my 300Tdi - I know it's bit awkward on the Puma). Thumbs Up Cheers, Vincent
1959 Polynorm 1/4 Ton Trailer, Olive Drab Green (sold)
1970 M416 Military Trailer (Camping Trailer Conversion), Epsom Green (sold)
1975 Series III 88 V6, Light Green (sadly sold)
1996 Defender 110 CSW 300 Tdi, Epsom Green (sold)
2000 Freelander 1 TD4 3-drs, Silver (sold)
2006 Freelander 1 TD4 5-drs Facelift Automatic, Tonga Green (sold)

MySite
Post #564715 17th Sep 2016 8:30pm
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Keith5



Member Since: 27 May 2016
Location: Scotland
Posts: 352

United Kingdom 2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Santorini Black
The kit has an inline fuse at the end where the live termination is made, for me (with the most direct threaded route) this sits just inside the battery box.

I have my LED front spots switched off a relay in the drivers side front wing and wired with 2.5mm cable (live and earth) back to my aux fuse board under the drivers seat.

I'm sure that I can get a better route between the 2 headlight units, just not sure what yet. Keith
Post #564721 17th Sep 2016 8:39pm
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ericvv



Member Since: 02 Jun 2011
Location: Near the Jet d'Eau
Posts: 5816

Switzerland 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SVX Station Wagon Santorini Black
VeeTee wrote:
I connected the permanent live of the kit directly to the alternator B+. Easier than routing to the battery box (at least on my 300Tdi - I know it's bit awkward on the Puma). Thumbs Up


That is the best option for the Puma too. Thumbs Up You never actually own a Defender. You merely look after it for the next generation.
http://youtu.be/yVRlSsJwD0o
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLZ49Jce_n0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XvAsz_ilQYU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8tMHiX9lSw
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dxwjPuHIV7I
https://vimeo.com/201482507
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSixqL0iyHw
Post #564762 18th Sep 2016 3:52am
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20342

United Kingdom 
I'm not sure to alternator would be the best spot though for fault finding if the fuse went and say someone was tracing it for you.
Also not waterproof, but then again suppose none of it is.

Personally I'd use larger grade cable so no voltage loss and go back to battery, to do a proper job fit a fuse box in too.

None, the less no right or wrong was everyone's personal choice.

Who has measured their Puma headlight voltage? $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
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Post #564804 18th Sep 2016 11:09am
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